1989 Bronco, 5.8L running issue

[carlwlk89]

Hey everyone. I am new to the community here and that is because I am the proud owner of a rebuilt 1989 Bronco full size. The truck has been completely gone through and redone. It has had the 5.8 torn apart, punched out .30 over and rebuilt. The issue I am having is weird, to say the least. You can go out to the truck, start it and it will idle fine for as long as it's running. The problem arises when you drop it into gear. Suddenly the truck has no power and acts like it is running on only 2 or 3 cylinders. My father said that he was only able to get it up to 30 mph on the road and then the power would fall off. I have been told that it could be a trans issue, a torque converter issue, an electrical issue, fuel, fire, and vaccuum line placement problem. I need some know how and some direction as to where to look and what to look for. I don't have the finances to just throw money at the problem and keep putting it into shop after shop, in hopes that it will be "found" I plan on driving the truck from here in California back home to North Carolina, but that trip wont be able to be made at 30 mph. Haha, so if anyone has any information or direction please, please let me know. I am going to work on the truck with my old man on Friday after Thanksgiving, so hopefully by then I will have an idea of where to start looking. Thank you guys for all your time and efforts and I hope to be talking with you soon. Happy Holidays!
No pictures as of yet, but I will upload some after Thanksgiving. I haven't even seen the truck yet. 

 

[miesk5]

yo CARL,

WELCOME!

Try a Self Test for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)s by my pal, BroncoJoe19

http://broncozone.com/topic/14269-code-reader/?&pid=74587&mode=threaded

The engine temperature must be greater than 50° F for the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) Self-Test and greater than 180° F for the Key On Engine Running (KOER) Self-Test.
Run it around to heat the engine up and shift thru all gears incl Reverse. Then turn off all accessories/lights, etc.

Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic) or in Neutral for a Manual & release clutch.

Do Key On Engine Off (KOEO) portion first.

And Post em here according to:
KOEO
&
KOER
 

Hopefully, you'll get a code re;ated to issues; then we can find the dignostics by Ford instead of replacing patys.

This is by Ford  for a later year;

 

[miesk5]

Here are the rest of Chart 6 http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/9497faq/maint/vra/images/a16143b.gif

http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/9497faq/maint/vra/images/a16144b.gif

http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/9497faq/maint/vra/images/a16310b.gif

I don't have access to the Diagnostic Procedures

 

[miesk5]

Since I can't figure out why I can't insert another paragraph below last paragrah, I guess I'll have to start another reply.

While codes will def be a help;

You can ch vac operated decive for proper vic hose routing;

Vehicle Emission Control Information (VECI) Decal; Contains Vacuum Diagram & Calibration Parts List for 88 & UP. On-Line for Free at Ford. Click "Quick Guides" in left panel; Scroll to & CLICK VECI Labels "Provides Vehicle Emission Control Information (VECI) and a related calibration parts list." Enter applicable info (need to know your Calibration number from your B-pillar sticker). Vacuum Diagram is the same as the one on the core support or hood or air filter cover. Suggest Right Clicking this Hot Link & Open in New Window
http://www.motorcraftservice.com/

Vacuum Line Acronyms & Some vac op device(s) pics http://broncozone.com/topic/20593-small-vacuum-line/

Vacuum Leaks http://broncozone.com/topic/23994-90-58l-getting-continuous-code-33-and-running-code-44/

Later, can test many Emission vac operated devices...

==================

Ignition;

Misrouted spark plug wires can cause a misfire or buck and **** under load

engine miss, spark knock, buck/***** surge and other driveability concerns
img]http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/299011/thumbnail/1.gif[/img][/url]

Pull a few plugs and look for a lean condition = intake man, EGR Valve , throttle body gasket, Vac Leaks, bad Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR) or weak fuel press from Pump.. Pull red vac line from FPR - any gas or gas smell = replace da FPR
Disconnect the vacuum line going to the fuel pressure regulator. Fuel pressure typically jumps to 40 PSI ± 3 PSI can get into PSI testing later..

Rich plug = O2 sensor /conn/wiring etc prob (should have a Code in KOER), ECT Sensor prob (code too)
Over-advanced ignition timing can cause a misfire or buck and **** under load. Pull SPOUT Connector and time it
 

How to Set the timing on an EFI Ford

Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at

http://oldfuelinjection.com/?p=71


 

Spark Plug Wire Routing & Firing Order TSB 94-04-10 for 87-93 5.0 & 94-96 5.0 & all 5.8 - engine miss, spark knock, buck/***** surge and other driveability concerns; MIESK5 NOTE; The firing order for 1987-1993 5.0Ls is 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8. If #7 and #8, or #2 and #4 spark plug wires are routed next to each other at the separation bracket, an induction crossfire condition can occur. &

Source: by Ford