1988 Steering Slack Help

[MississippiSlim72]

My 88 full size has about 6 inches of slack in the steering. The steering wheel to the shaft below the u-joint is tight and the shaft to the rag joint and gear box is tight. The slop is in between the two shafts. Is there some kind of plastic bushing or something that can be replaced? Not real familiar with this steering assembly. Can't find a part number or anything anywhere. Any help would be appreciated. Hoping not to have to replace the whole assembly!

 

[MississippiSlim72]

Anybody?

 

[Rons beast]

Check all the front suspension and steering parts. If they are all tight, the slop is in the box. Adjust the box and all should be good.

 

[miesk5]

yo,

As Ron wrote;

also, I thought I replied yesterday, but I don't see it here or in any other post here.

From old notes, Ford advises to check & torgue the lower to intermediate shaft bolts.

Steering column intermediate shaft coupling fractured.

REPLACE as required.

Ford often changes Descriptions of a part to confuse us.....so in next 2 diagrams by Chilton, look at that AREA between two shafts

Esp the "*** joint"

*** joint Alignment for all models in an 88

Parts Break-Out Diagram w/Nomencature in an 88 w/Torques

This is by a diagram by http://www.newfordparts.com/ifrm_browse.php;



1. Upper shaft

2. Lower shaft

3. Shift tube

4. Jacket

5. Cover

6. Extension

7. ******

8. Lock cylinder

9. Steering wheel

 

[MississippiSlim72]

New Box. No slop there. The shaft is two parts one slides into the other one. The Slack is in betweent those two shafts where they slide into each other. Like it would have some type of bushing of something taking up the space between them.

 

[MississippiSlim72]

To better explain: Between the U-joint and the Rag coupling the shaft is two pieces one nestled in the other. Instead of those two pices fitting tightly, one turns significantly before it causes the other shaft to start turning.

 

[miesk5]

yo,

ok

so that diagram showing the *** joint is incorrect? Seabronc has often mentioned that Chilton groups year ranges incorrectly and wiring diagrams are incorrect as well.

I have no other resources for repairing that issue; check local yard and ask them who rebuilds columns; those folks go to yards and pull many columns for parts and rebuilds.

 

[MississippiSlim72]

Thanks! I buddy is telling me he can build up the inner shaft with brass and then file it down for a close fit that should last for a good long time. It looks like its either that, pull another at a junkyard (which is liable to be in no better shape) or breakdown and spend 200 plus for a Borgeson. hmmmmm....

 

[Rons beast]

What you describe is a sliding joint that is there to collapse on fromtal impact. I would not fill the void with brass or anything else. It is there for safety, and yours is apparently damaged greatly. Your bronc must have took an impact at one time. Check the area where the box mounts to the frame. The area is prone to stress cracks, which will also give steering slop.

Back to the shaft...

Get a new, (used) shaft in good condition. It could save your life in the future.

 

[Krafty]

if the two parts of the shaft are weldable I would look into putting a very light tack on them, enough to take care of the slack but less enough to break in a sheering/ collision situation. but that's if you're really cheap like me

 

[MississippiSlim72]

Not talking about welding them solid. Talking about building up the innershaft so there isn't the "play" between the two pieces. Just like when you build up the inner part of a PTO shaft on a rotary cutter or something. The Safety factor in a crash not really a concern to me as it will still function as before just not have the slack between the two pieces as well as the fact that after the life I lived through to this point,I figure more than a steering design is keeping me alive....LOL! Most probably going to get a borgeson replacement shaft after hunting season but this should work until then.