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Thank you for the welcome..... Well I did find stuff that is UV that works for Engine Oil ... I have done the clean and watch game... to much crap in the way... With Alt, Smog, PS, A/C and the brakets( spinng fan blade of death)... I replaced the Valve cover gasket on the driver side.... I could see where that was leaking... Since it's come from the front I ruled out rear seal.. Since no water in the oil I ruled out head gasket... I am down to Intake Manifold... or Timing chain cover or Main..Hey man Welcome to BroncoZone... Well why would you use UV? That is for ac systems because it is a gas leak and they are very hard to see. Now oil leak you need a case of brake cleaner and a bunch of rags. Clean all the oil off it. What you do is spray and wipe all the places you suspect and then let the engine run while you look for where the oil comes from. You "could" drive it around of letting it idle don't work but then the oil is blown around and its hard to find the real leak. Now common places are the rear main, valve covers and oil pan. Now the valve covers are easy to replace but the oil pan and rear main is a pain in the @$$. But if you really want it fixed then its not problem either time or money. Good Luck...
hmmm, please let us know how well it works out. I don't see how it will be any better... all the crap is still going to be in the way. Instead of a regular oil pool, you'll have a glowing oil pool.Thank you for the welcome..... Well I did find stuff that is UV that works for Engine Oil ... I have done the clean and watch game... to much crap in the way...
Just curious...So I decided ok I will take on a little spin.... 3.5 miles I pulled in and there it was glowing all over where I had seen it pooling up... driverside next to Distributor... running down behinde the A/C and pooling up on the back of the P/S pump dripping off of that and on to the lower radiator house and on to the ground...
I think it helped confrim that it was not more then the leak on the driver side... still not 100% it's the but I am 85% sure it's the manifold...Just curious...Did the UV dye help at all?
Overall, changing the valvecover gaskets is easy enough, replacing the o-ring on the distributer should be easy enough. What you want to be careful about is that should you/ when you change the distributer, prior to pulling it, MARK it so that when you reinstall it, that it lines back up in the same position that it was in when you pulled it.I think it helped confrim that it was not more then the leak on the driver side... still not 100% it's the but I am 85% sure it's the manifold...As much oil is coming out I know it could not be the Valve cover leaking still... but not sure on the distributor O ring... never ahd one go out...
So I don;t know how much oil that throughs out... since it directly connected to the oil pump after all...
JSM84 thanks for the link.... I do have both a Chiltons and a Haynes book for the truck ...Had the Chiltons b4 I even had the truck... lol.... If I was real ********* I would have the complete Ford Shop Manuals like I had for my 69 Mach 1....tonyp, here's a link to an exploded view of the 5.0L EFI V8 in your 89 Bronco (from Steve83's supermotors gallery):
http://www.supermotors.net/vehicles/registry/media/309277
That should help you see the coolant sender byh the distributor, and other parts. I'm gonna diagnose this as a front intake manifold gasket leak. The front bolt on each side of the intake goes into a water passage in the heads, so if the bolt was broken, you'd be leaking coolant and not oil. Just recently worked on a friend's 94 Bronco with that problem. The next bolt is a few inches back of the front one, and it's unlikely oil would run from that area to the front. I'd check if that is tight anyway, if you can reach it. The only other leak in that area around the front of the intake is the distributor seal like previously posted. replacing the gasket is going to be a task, but may be a blessing in disguise. I'll lay odds that one or both of those front manifold bolts going through the heads will break off while trying to remove them. These would someday break on their own and leave you searching for more coolant to make it 250 miles home from the beach on a holiday weekend. If you don't already have a HAynes or Chilton repair manual for your Bronco, iwould suggest getting one or both from your local auto parts store. they're not expensive ($15-$20) and will help you out witht removing and re-installing the upper and lower intake manifolds. The manual also lists the torque sequence you need to follow when tightening all the bolts on the loweer manifold when it goes back in. Your leak is kind of like a rear main seal leak in that you can go for awhile as long as you keep putting more oil into the motor. One last thing. IF you do happen to break a bolt off inside one of the heads, it's almost easier to just get rebuilt heads vs having a shop drill out the old bolt and re-tap the hole. I did this on two bolts on my 460, but it was a real PITA. A machine shop will likely charge you about $75-$80 per hole for the work. JSM84