Axle Questions

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Jason72Bronco

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Going through my barn-find '72 inch-by-inch and am doing brake cleaning and inspection.

First, thanks to Seabronc and Bully Bob, I did go ahead and learn how to disassemble, reassemble front hubs.  I went ahead and bought the spindle nut socket...figure I will use it many times!  Already have a nice torque wrench.

First question, both sides had quite a bit of oil inside the hub assembly, not just bearing grease.  (The inner bearing, however, was not greasy.)  Does this mean the spindle seals need replacing or is it normal?  I cleaned and repacked everything, but have not driven yet.  Also, if new spindle seals are needed, do I need a press or not?

Second, its clear I need a new rear axle shaft seal on one side.  I've researched how to replace, but have this question:  is there an "easy" way to install the new seal?  Everything I've seen uses a simple tool that is flat round piece of metal with a guide rod on the backside, and you just use that tool and tap the seal flush.  However, online I can only find that tool in the $50-$75 range!  Seems pricey for such a simple tool.  (Can't find a store with a loaner yet.)  Any home remedies or tricks for this seal install?

thanks in advance,

Jason

 

Bully Bob

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Good job..!!

"oil inside the hub assembly, not just bearing grease"

My guess would be the grease just broke down & became thin.

"Does this mean the spindle seals need replacing or is it normal?"

This is a different animal. The spindle seal simply protects a small roller bearing in the back side of the spindle.

This bearing only comes into play during 4 wheel drive. (axle shaft rides on it. With little pressure however)

SIDE NOTE: If you ever take the spindle off, (simple) don't remove that bearing. Just clean it good with solvent

then spray **** it & check it's condition with your finger. If it's smooth leave it alone & just grease it up. 

Point being, it's a small/caged bearing & you can't get it out W/O destroying it in most cases...., & they rarely show damage.

Worst case, they can be replaced with new bearings or bushings.

Spindle seals go in quite easy.

"Any home remedies or tricks for this (rear axle) seal install?"

Installed several with just **** on the edge & a block of wood. The seal is pretty tough.

However, I have a set of (inexpensive) hard plastic seal setters from Harbor Freight.., either method works the same. 

"...but have not driven yet"

BTW..., it's my belief the torque on the front wheel bearings is just to set the races & bearings all the way in place.

I always back off the pressure then set those lock nuts so the wheel spins freely W/O any wobble at the hub.

 
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Jason72Bronco

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Thanks Bully Bob,

All great advice.

FYI, regarding your last comment.  I torqued the front bearing locknut to 50ft/lb. and THEN backed off 90 degrees, per factory manual.  Seems like perfect amount of wheel movement and no play.  Then installed lock washer and torqued outer locknut to 50 lb.

(With other cars, I'm used to just tightening a lock-pin nut against the bearing washer by "feel", so this was definitely more precise!)

Jason

 

Bully Bob

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Kewl.., ya, I just worry some folks may torque then run with it....

The 90deg. back-off is a good ballpark which is right there with "feel". 

After everything is locked in place, I still like to spin-n-wobble test, just to be sure.

Another point, if you ever pull the spindles, you can pull the axles right out & insp. the u-joints.

Mine were "dust" inside a few caps but somehow, still working.

 

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