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new clutch kit for the 68 bronco


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#1 wischbronc68

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Posted 25 May 2010 - 08:03 PM

my 68 bronco clutch went out yesterday. I stepped on the pedal and felt almost nothing and when I tried to downshift (3 speed, column shift) it wouldnt go into gear. I was able to get it back to my shop in 2nd, not stopping and timing the traffic lights (it was really late). I picked up a clutch kit from Napa (torrance auto parts) and am about ready to start the replacement. My approach will be to remove the starter, crossmember, driveshaft, exhaust crossover, clutch linkage, pull the trans and transfer case, remove the pressure plate, clutch disc, bearing and bushing, bellhousing and release lever, and finally the flywheel. Hope this sounds about right, considering I have no service manual and cant find any good step by step removal instructions. Feel free to post any advice or secrets you may have on this task and I will post some pics as I progress towards completion. Crossing my fingers and hoping for the best.

#2 wischbronc68

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Posted 25 May 2010 - 11:25 PM

trans and transfer case are out. Went pretty smooth, except the shifter for TC was still connected and was hanging me up for a while. 3/4" thru bolt and 9/16 bolt removed and linkage separated, and the assembly dropped right out. I kept the crossmember attached to TC and removed the 4 bolts on each side of the brackets and lowered it all down together. Kept the stock exhaust connected and it cleared it no prob. Now on to the bell housing removal. Thinking about ordering a tranny rebuild kit tomorrow and just rebuilding it since its already out.

Attached Files


Edited by wischbronc68, 26 May 2010 - 09:33 PM.


#3 Bully Bob

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Posted 26 May 2010 - 05:52 AM

Wow..! Good job there wisch...!!
Sounds like you have good mechanical skills. ;)
I hope you took a close look at the clutch linkage 'cause something doesn't sound right...as though something fell out or broke. Should also be able to shift gears, W/O the clutch. But., anything is possible. (shift linkage out of adjustment.)
When separating trannie/transf. do it on the trannie side of the adaptor. If you sep. adapt. from the transfer., the (output shaft) large needle bearings will likely fall into the case. :(
Same for trannie.., moving the shifter tab into 1st gear stops the possibility of the large needle bearings fr. dropping into case. (When you remove the trannie front bearing cover, the gear-set tries to move forward..allowing these bearings to drop.) No biggie when re-building as you can fish them out later.
However., if trannie was shifting fine (syncros working, etc.) B/4 this delema.., there's no real need to re-build at this time...but you'd be well served gett'n a manual unless you've done trannies B/4.

Keep us posted on progress if you would.... :D/

HTH

B

Edited by Bully Bob, 26 May 2010 - 12:04 PM.

---Jeep recovery unit---
1966 "U-13" Roadster...topless, doorless. (with rag top-n-doors)
200 cu.in. I-6 with 250 head.
$30 homemade HEI elect. ignition.
Pwr. steering, Hurst 3-speed floor shifter.
Split headers, dual exhaust, Holley 1 brl.
Stock axles...456's...32's ...Posi rear. 2.5 in. lift.
Full roll-cage, front.
65 gallons of fuel on board..!
70+ MPH cruise---15 MPG
6 EB's (& 11 early Land Cruisers) referbished & sold..

#4 wischbronc68

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Posted 26 May 2010 - 08:52 PM

Thanks Bully! The clutch linkage is definitely suspect too. It started squeeking and almost felt like it was getting hung up when the pedal was pressed or released about two weeks ago. I will pull all that stuff tonite and inspect it. I guess there's some bushings and rub washers in there that are probably all worn out. The dust boot is disintegrated also so I will find a rebuild kit for it. The shift linkage seems outta whack too, seemed to alwAys grind going into reverse unless you put it in first gear the moved it up to reverse. Second gear was kind of grindy also. Upon inspection of pressure plate and flywheel, it seems to be pretty worn out, and the throwout bearing looks and spins like those metal whheled rollerskates we all had when we were kids. I will add pics as soon as I figure out how to do it from my iPhone.
Keep the comments coming, it helps!

#5 Bully Bob

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Posted 27 May 2010 - 06:23 AM

"...some bushings and rub washers in there are probably all worn out."
--- The good news it's cheap & easy to repl. all those teflon hat bushings, etc. involved with that mechanism. I've even made my own a time or two.
The clutch will work W/O them but the holes will elongate & get sloppy. :(

"....always grind going into reverse unless you put it in first gear then moved it up to reverse. Second gear was kind of grindy also."
--- Oh-oh...this sounds more like worn syncros...pop'n the top insp. cover will give a look at the sync's & shift forks. Maybe it is time for a re-build. :o

Take a look close at floor shifters when it's re-assembly time. This is one of the best up-grades you can do. :D/

B
---Jeep recovery unit---
1966 "U-13" Roadster...topless, doorless. (with rag top-n-doors)
200 cu.in. I-6 with 250 head.
$30 homemade HEI elect. ignition.
Pwr. steering, Hurst 3-speed floor shifter.
Split headers, dual exhaust, Holley 1 brl.
Stock axles...456's...32's ...Posi rear. 2.5 in. lift.
Full roll-cage, front.
65 gallons of fuel on board..!
70+ MPH cruise---15 MPG
6 EB's (& 11 early Land Cruisers) referbished & sold..

#6 wischbronc68

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Posted 28 May 2010 - 01:04 PM

"...some bushings and rub washers in there are probably all worn out."
--- The good news it's cheap & easy to repl. all those teflon hat bushings, etc. involved with that mechanism. I've even made my own a time or two.
The clutch will work W/O them but the holes will elongate & get sloppy. Posted Image

"....always grind going into reverse unless you put it in first gear then moved it up to reverse. Second gear was kind of grindy also."
--- Oh-oh...this sounds more like worn syncros...pop'n the top insp. cover will give a look at the sync's & shift forks. Maybe it is time for a re-build. Posted Image

Take a look close at floor shifters when it's re-assembly time. This is one of the best up-grades you can do. Posted Image

B


Thanks Bully. I'll pop the top and check it out.

#7 Bully Bob

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Posted 28 May 2010 - 02:18 PM

I forgot to mention., watch out for that lil' spring that holds down the shift rail detent ball. It will be visable with the cover off. Don't lose it.
Down in the bottom of the case you'll see a magnet...(approx. 1" across) it will hold clues as to any shavings deposited into the gear oil stream. You can scoop some junk off of it with a screwdriver or like tool.
---Jeep recovery unit---
1966 "U-13" Roadster...topless, doorless. (with rag top-n-doors)
200 cu.in. I-6 with 250 head.
$30 homemade HEI elect. ignition.
Pwr. steering, Hurst 3-speed floor shifter.
Split headers, dual exhaust, Holley 1 brl.
Stock axles...456's...32's ...Posi rear. 2.5 in. lift.
Full roll-cage, front.
65 gallons of fuel on board..!
70+ MPH cruise---15 MPG
6 EB's (& 11 early Land Cruisers) referbished & sold..

#8 wischbronc68

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Posted 31 May 2010 - 07:14 PM

finished the clutch/pressure plate change out. Reassembled everything and I still have a vibrating clutch pedal and pretty bad chatter in first and reverse. Motor mounts are new, trans mounts are good, everything is torqued properly. Flywheel was resurfaced. Installed new pilot bushing. wondering what to check next.



#9 wischbronc68

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Posted 31 May 2010 - 10:16 PM

wow, this is really frustrating!!! ok, just checked timing, adjusted carb, checked ignition, distributer, spark, dwell, basically got the 289 humming to eliminate rough engine idle as a problem. Checked u-joints, yokes, etc...All is good. Still chattering bad in first and reverse. Thinking it could be an alignment issue??? Really not sure what to do next. Clutch is engaging and disengaging properly and i have no issues in second and third. shifting smoothly between gears with no grinding. pedal feels good. feels like bad motor mounts but they are new and torqued properly. HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

wisch

#10 Bully Bob

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  • Favorite Bronco Year?:6677

Posted 01 June 2010 - 06:32 AM

OUCH...!! That hurts b-(

What was the obvious problem areas on/in the clutch system that you removed.?
(Assuming you put in a new T/O bearing as well.)
What all did you do in/to the trannie itself...?
Shutter 1st & reverse ..... as in when it first starts rolling or continues as long as it's in that gear.?
Did you try starting out in 2nd...? (to see if it shutters then as well)
---Jeep recovery unit---
1966 "U-13" Roadster...topless, doorless. (with rag top-n-doors)
200 cu.in. I-6 with 250 head.
$30 homemade HEI elect. ignition.
Pwr. steering, Hurst 3-speed floor shifter.
Split headers, dual exhaust, Holley 1 brl.
Stock axles...456's...32's ...Posi rear. 2.5 in. lift.
Full roll-cage, front.
65 gallons of fuel on board..!
70+ MPH cruise---15 MPG
6 EB's (& 11 early Land Cruisers) referbished & sold..

#11 bigbluebronc

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Posted 03 June 2010 - 03:10 PM

wow, this is really frustrating!!! ok, just checked timing, adjusted carb, checked ignition, distributer, spark, dwell, basically got the 289 humming to eliminate rough engine idle as a problem. Checked u-joints, yokes, etc...All is good. Still chattering bad in first and reverse. Thinking it could be an alignment issue??? Really not sure what to do next. Clutch is engaging and disengaging properly and i have no issues in second and third. shifting smoothly between gears with no grinding. pedal feels good. feels like bad motor mounts but they are new and torqued properly. HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

wisch


I think I have seen this thread before and it referenced not motor mount but the hard motor mounts on the frame being torn away from the frame, just my 2 cents
BBB
All 4x4s are cool lockers and gears get you there big tires and lifts are for mall crawling.
1985 extra cab yota chevy rears custom fronts cross over steering 5.29s lockrites front and rear 22rec auto haha one foot wheelin. and only 33s, my truck flexes better then a circus freak.....haha



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