RevPops '90 5.0 Litre

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miesk5

96 Bronco 5.0
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yo REV,

You'll need a slide hammer as Jeff shows; ask local parts store for a Loan a Tool; such as what Auto Zone has; refundable security deposit may be reduced bec. of your sacrifices and value to the community

•Insufficient, Erratic, or No Heat

•Low radiator coolant due to coolant leaks.

•CHECK radiator cap pressure. REPLACE if below minimum pressure. FILL to specified coolant level. PRESSURE TEST for engine cooling system and heating system leaks. SERVICE as required.

•Engine overheating.

•REMOVE bugs, leaves, etc. from radiator and support or A/C condenser core fins. CHECK for:Operation of engine fan clutchLoose drive beltSticking thermostatIncorrect ignition timingWater pump impeller damageRestricted cooling system ◾SERVICE as required.

•Loose drive belt.

•REPLACE drive belt if cracked or worn and ADJUST drive belt tension.

•Thermostat.

•FEEL heater water hoses. If the heater water hoses are too hot to hold, the thermostat is OK. If the heater water hoses do not get too hot to hold, REPLACE the thermostat. If only one heater water hose gets hot while the other remains cool, a plugged heater water hose or heater core is indicated.

•Heater water hoses.

•CHECK condition and routing of hoses.

A1 CHECK ENGINE COOLANT LEVEL

•Allow engine cooling system to fully cool and check radiator coolant level.

Is coolant level low?

•Visually inspect condition of heater water hoses for pinched or collapsed conditions

A4 TEST THERMOSTAT

•Start vehicle and allow to run for 10 minutes.

•Feel the heater water hoses and the underside of the upper radiator hose.

Are the heater water hoses and the upper radiator hose cool?

Yes REPLACE thermostat. RETEST system.

No go to A5

A5 CHECK TEMPERATURE CONTROL DOOR OPERATION

•Rotate temperature control **** from full warm to full cool and check temperature door (aka Blend Door) for operation. Door is cable operated from HVAC Control Panel.

Blend Door Location in a 94; 80-96 similar; "...Probably the temp blend door is loose & flopping around on its own. The easiest way to see it is to fully lower the glove box, pull the ~8 screws from the heater core cover, & look inside to the L (driver's side). You'll see the cable & control lever (in top L of 2nd pic) as soon as you fold the glovebox down, so inspect it first. The 3rd shows the whole cover - it's the large section in the top center with tiny white numbers inked near its bottom edge. The cables are visible, too...."

ventilation8086.jpg

right-kick-modules.jpg

The module I MISlabelled as "Airbag" is actually the Wiper Control Module (WCM). The Airbag Diagnostic Module (ADM) is light blue, wrapped in black foam, above the gas pedal.

dash-rear-r.jpg

Source: by Steve

you can take out your glove box, it will make it much easier. If not, you can probably feel around and find it. Just above the box housing the heater core you should find a clamp that holds the other end of the cable from your heater controls. Follow that about an inch or three towards the driver's side until you feel a lever. This controls the little door that bypasses the heater. Just move that lever/door and you should be running heat...."

Source: by darb

Does temperature door operate correctly?

Yes CHECK for head gasket leaks.

No CHECK for binding, damaged or disconnected temperature door. REPAIR or REPLACE as necessary. RETEST system

 
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matthewwp56

matthewwp56

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wow you guys rock thanks for the info.

Thanks Supr Com, do you know John Stewart? (Jersey)

 

miesk5

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yo REV,

YW

Don't know him. We're in Pinelands in South end.

Let us know how it all works out.

 
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matthewwp56

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Trying heat, cold water shock, and pounding the nuts I put back on the 6 studs.

Autozone has a 32 oz dent puller only; they say not appropriate for my wheel job; is that what you meant? Detroit autozon not really into loaning tools like the commercials say

 

miesk5

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matthewwp56

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OK back to front end...I used heat, cold water, wd-40 and a 4lb sledge, put nuts back on and drove studs out, soaked overnight with wd-40, sharpened a cold chisel and worked around the edges between the splash shield and the hub. It came off finally slowly not all at once.

What a **** up ford! Try a damn gasket or....?

So now the U-joint looks OK and I had a BAD vibration so I'm worried. 

Inside the hub was a final washer/ring and a rubber seal. These were flopping around initially not seated; is it possible all my problems were just the front wheel nuts not tightened correctly according to the torque procedure by the last mechanic? 

I guess what I'm looking for (back to the skimpy haynes) is should I take off the drivers side wheel and shaft and the transaxle to inspect? How do I locate/verify the problem since I thought it was the front passenger u-joint and it was not?

Not trying to be lazy but usually along with reading manual, searching forums and 1 on 1 I can fix anything, but I've never f'd with a 4x front end, or a transmission. However my dad rebuilt automatic trannies and I am smarter than he was....   :^)  

I want to go to Ohio visit my sick cousin, maybe i'll take Amtrak lol! By the time I fix this bronco he may be dead! 

 
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matthewwp56

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Called local mechanic he's coming to look at it for $20 lol.

 
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matthewwp56

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local guy carrey also on penrod up from me came by and looked at the shaft and hub. He said the u joint was slightly loose and the hub rattled around and stripped so it was gong in and out of 4x; which is what I thought originaly; the hub was the noise, the u-joints were the cause, so i need to replace them both. praise jesus!  I dont have to drop any transaxle so far lol.!

 

miesk5

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Seabronc

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I would suggest rebuilding both front axle U-joints while you are at it. It's not a very hard job if you have a press. If not, pull the axles and give them to a mechanic to rebuild.  It's been a while since I did it, but as I recall it only took about 10 to 20 minutes to do with a press.

:)>-   

 
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matthewwp56

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OK so hub off was rusted on knuckle @ studs/plate. Mechanic neighbor said the u-joint was slightly bad; I took it off it was rusted stuck in 1 of 4 heads so it was not rutning freely, therefore causing viubratiion, which in turn tore up the hub gear part that is 3" diam. x like 1/4" aluminum. Sheared it right off.

Now all I need is an exploded view of the hub and bearings with seals so i can make sure it goes back together properly. 

Having difficulty finding mine in the diagrmas. Mine is a 6 stud hub and has a splash shield, it has 2 large (2 1/4"?) inner nuts seperated by a large washer 

Snapshot_20141109.JPG

So EZ fix relatively speaking low cost fix. Radiator flush next, thanks for all info.

peass n loaves,

RevPops aka Matt Pittaway

Detroit Mi Amerika

 

miesk5

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matthewwp56

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ok back together seems good. thx all.

feel free to invite me to your group for gospel music.

 
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matthewwp56

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OK got the u joint back in with new hub... all seems good now

The tailgate was stucopen so I pulled the inside cover off and used an old casr battery and wires to power the yeello/red plug and run it up "manually".

I may take my camper down south and finish fixing her up.

no garage and I'm tired of detroit 'dumb workers divided' inc. and the cold.

Think I'll tour the USA and prophecy doom and gloom to these wicked Amerikans...starting with the sinners in Miami!   LOL!

Thanks again for thr info. If you live in the USA and want to know what God is thinking, call Pops!

I can drive to you now.

peace n love

RevPops aka Matt Pittaway  (734) 335-1372

6256 Penrod St, Detroit, MI 48228

HisHouseMedia.com

 
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matthewwp56

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Hi Guys! Made it to Colorado via FLorida!

Got here and the back right axle was slipped back 3"...so I am pounding it back.

See the video on my youtube channel!

www.youtube.com/matthewwp56

peas n loaves, revpops aka Matt Pittaway, Never afraid;

Somewhere in Amerika!

The revolution will not be televized...on basic cable; yer payin for that ***** on HBO!

matthewwp on skype - 734-335-1372

cannabinoids.jpg

 

miesk5

96 Bronco 5.0
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yo Rev,

I didn't see the axle shaft in the last video;

The semi-floating axle shafts are held in the rear axle housing by u-washers positioned in a slot on the axle shaft splined end. These u-washers also fit into a machined recess in the differential side gears (4236) within the differential case.

miesk5 Note; U-washers are also ref to as C-Clips.

C-Clip Location & Removal in an 86

img_0394.jpg

Source: by Sixlitre (Malcolm H, Eddie Bauer)

Removal

1.Raise vehicle and install safety stands. Remove rear wheel and tire. Refer to Section 04-04. Remove rear brake drum (1126). Refer to Section 06-02.

2.Clean all dirt from the area of the axle housing cover (4033) with a wire brush.

3.Drain rear axle lubricant by loosening axle housing cover bolts. Remove bolts and axle housing cover.

4. CAUTION: Install new differential pinion shaft lock pin (4241) after removal. If new bolt is not available, thoroughly clean threads of used bolt and coat with Threadlock® and Sealer EOAZ-19554-AA or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSK-M2G315-A5 before installation.

Remove differential pinion shaft lock pin and differential pinion shaft (4211).

5.NOTE: When removing the u-washer (4N237), use care not to lose or damage the rubber O-ring which is in the axle shaft groove under the U-washer. The O-ring is used to hold the u-washer in position until the axle shafts (4234) are pulled back in place at reassembly.

Push the flanged end of the axle shafts inboard and remove the u-washer from the button end of each axle shaft.

6.Remove the axle shaft from the rear axle housing (4010), being careful not to damage the inner wheel bearing oil seal (1177).

7.To replace the rear wheel bearing (1225) and/or inner wheel bearing oil seal, refer to Seal and Bearing Replacement in the Removal and Installation portion of this section.

Installation

1.Slide the axle shafts into place in the rear axle housing. Use care so that the splines or any portion of the axle shafts do not damage the inner wheel bearing oil seals. Push the axle shafts inboard enough to allow installation of the u-washers.

2.NOTE: A rubber O-ring is used to hold the u-washer in position on the axle shaft. Make sure the O-ring is in the groove at the button end of the axle shaft before installing the u-washer.

Install the u-washers on the button end of the axle shafts and pull the axle shafts outboard so that the shaft lock seats in the counterbore of the differential side gear (4236).

3.Position the differential pinion shaft through the differential case (4204) and differential pinion gear (4215), aligning the hole in the differential pinion shaft with the bolt hole. Apply Threadlock® and Sealer EOAZ-19554-AA or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSK-M2G315-A5 to the lock pin threads. Install differential pinion shaft lock pin and tighten to 20-40 Nm (15-30 lb-ft).

4.Install rear axle housing cover and add lubricant. Refer to Cover in the Removal and Installation portion of this section.

5.Install rear brake drum.

6.Install rear wheel and tire.

7.Remove safety stands, lower the vehicle, and road test.

see diagrams and depictions in 96 Bronco/F series Workshop Manual (PARTIAL @ http://www.diesel-dave.com/vehic/manual/stj/stj52g06.htm#extract_857

 
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