4WABS ON 95 BRONCO

So I recently began having trouble with my psom not reading speed so I replaced the plug and sensor on the rear end which didnt not fix it so I then replacwd the psom and it began working again.. a couple days later it stopped so I started doing some research about it and have determined that I have a troubled abs module. I cleaned and greased the connection on it and its working again but now once I hit about 65 mph I now have needle waiver so im just gunna try to replace the module.. I found one with part # F37A-2C018-BB but mine is part #F47A-2C219-FA so Im wondering if they are interchangeable and also the rear abs connector I replace *** purchased from O'Reilly.. I heard someone say you cant splice a new plug on because of the type of wire the factory uses and that the wires will have different continuity so i need to know if this is true? Thanks for any info you can offer.

yo ants,

4WABS (93-96)

Within these years there are differences in:

4WABS Control Module PN Label F37A-2C018-BB pic in a 93 Bronco. "...NOT for 94-96 Bronco"



4WABS Module PN F37A-2C018-BB from a 93 Bronco.

94-96 Broncos were built with a different PN module

by Steve

I'll try to find out more later when I get back home.

Have you checked for OBD1 Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) yet?

Try a Self Test for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)s by my pal, BroncoJoe19

http://broncozone.com/topic/14269-code-reader/?pid=74587&mode=threaded

A helper is good to assist in reading Codes; best is to take a cell fone vid and replay it.

Some basics;

Visual Check

Battery is fully charged

1.Inspect the air cleaner and inlet ducting.

2.Check all engine vacuum hoses for damage, leaks, cracks, blockage, proper routing, etc.

3.Check EEC system wiring harness for proper connections, bent or broken pins, corrosion, loose wires, proper routing, etc.

4.Check the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), sensors and actuators for physical damage; IAC, TPS I see was replaced, etc.5.Check the engine coolant for proper level and mixture.

6.Check the transmission fluid level and quality. See E4OD Fluid Condition Check Below)

7.Make all necessary repairs before continuing

8. Check headlights

The engine temperature must be greater than 50° F for the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) Self-Test and greater than 180° F for the Key On Engine Running (KOER) Self-Test.

Run it around to heat the engine up and shift thru all gears including Reverse.

Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic); or in Neutral for a Manual & release clutch.

Turn off all accessories; radio, lights, A/C, heater, blower, fans, etc. (close driver's door)

Then turn off engine and wait 10 seconds.

Do KOEO test First

Post Code(s) here according to:

KOEO

&

KOER

===========

Next Test for 4WABS Codes;

4WABS Self Test & Test Connector Diagram, Component Locations, DTCs, 93-96; USE THIS PROCESS! "...The 4WABS TEST Connector is red; located at the left-hand side (driver's side) of the engine compartment and marked ANTI-LOCK TEST; Light Flash Technique 1. Note: If 12V test light is not available, the amber ABS warning light also flashes during this test. Locate test connector in the engine compartment and install 12V test light between Pins C and E. 2. With the ignition off, jumper Pin E to B. 3. Turn key to RUN position. 4. Remove jumper between Pins E and B after 5 seconds. 5. Count light flashes of test light or amber ABS warning light..." read more; miesk5 Note; for all Resistance tests, battery needs to be disconnected; remove Negative cable at battery

Source: by Steve

http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/255501_1

Post Code(s) found.

------

Here are the PSOM wave, hard shifts, etc. Ford Tests; you can skip to the Module Jumper info below if you want to rule out that Module or it's connector; Inspect Connector terminals for what For calls "Terminal Back-Out", meaning the Module terminal (male) does not connect to female terminal on harness side of conn;

Check Fuses 8 & 18 in Cab fuse block (lower left of dash by driver's left knee)

Diagram in a 95 @ http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd/DownloadPdf?id=46678

This problem could be caused by a # of things;

bad vehicle speed sensor (VSS) (also called ABS,, DSS sensor) sensor on 8.8 (rear differential)/ or

Connector/corroded wires inside connector;

or cruddy/damaged tone ring in the 8.8.

bad 4WABS Module - It is located below ws wiper fluid/coolant recovery tank. So, the connector can be corroded by leaking fluid

bad wiring/shorts /connectors from VSS at firewall, at 4WABS Module and /or at PSOM and then onto the PCMthe locations of the connectors along the path from VSS to 4WABS and up to Instr Cluster & PSOM are;

C404 VSS On rear axle sensor (A7) Terminals: 02

C205 LH rear of engine compartment, in safety wall (Fire Wall) Terminals: 24 In-Line

C202F & M LH rear of engine compartment, in safety wall (A8) Terminal: 7 In-Line

C119 LH front corner of engine compartment on 4WABS control module (E10),Terminals: 40

O/LB to:

C202F & M LH rear of engine compartment, in safety wall (A8) Terminal: 7 In-Line

C252 Programmable Speedometer/Odometer Module (PSOM), Behind top LH side of I/P, on PSOM (A7) Terminal: 12 Color: B at Pins 4

LG/Y to Splice S107 Engine control sensor harness, from C119 near T/O to G101 (G101 RH side of Radiator support); to PSOM Pin 5

C202 F and M

and spliced to Ground G100 (BK)

G100 & G104 (tied together in diagram) G100 @ LH front of engine compartment, on upper radiator support

G100 Serves Component:

Fuel Pump Module

Inertia Fuel Shutoff

Misfire Sensor

Misfire Sensor Shield

Output Shaft Speed (OSS) Sensor

Powertrain Control Module (PCM), 5.0L

From PSOM Pin 7 (GY/BK) to Splice S246 Main harness, near T/O to speed control amplifier to

C185 PK/O @ PCM 5.0L Powertrain Control Module (PCM) LH side of safety wall, on powertrain control module (PCM) (C10) Terminal: 104 Color: GY

C185, 5.8L Powertrain Control Module (PCM) LH side of safety wall, on powertrain control module (PCM) (C10) Terminal: 104 Color: GY

C185 @PCM to C202 F and M

Splice 216 to Ground G200, Instrument Cluster ground is inside passenger side kick panel

and on to C185 @ PCM PIN 58 (GY/BK) and from Pin 46 to MLPS (TR) Pin 2

Verify PCM & MLPS wiring & Pin numbers using following WIRING DIAGRAMs by Ford via http://www.revbase.com/BBBMOTOR/Wd

I jumpered the Module out as Steve & Turbo Ghost describes below.

To bypass the 4WABS module @ it's harness's connector & feed the ABS signal directly to the PSOM,

Disconnect module (under coolant recovery /ws washer tank) & in connector, jumper LG/Bk to LG/Y, and R/Pk to O/LB..."

Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/170517_1

Pin numbers are shown in the wiring diagram

or with a pic of the connector and jumpers; Continuity Test Through 4WABS Module Connector in 93-96; "...jumper 14 (CKT 530, LG/Y) to 21 (CKT 519 (LG/BK) & 39 (CKT 491 (O/LB) to 22 (CKT 523, R/PK)...";

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v252/turboghost/ABSConnectorw-jumpers.jpg by Turbo Ghost

Speed Input Signal Test @ PSOM in 93-96 Bronco; "...NOTE: Only wiring harness end of connector is to be probed. * Connect Rotunda Digital Volt-Ohmmeter 014-00407 or equivalent to Pin 4 (speed in ) and Pin 5 (speed in -). * Does the voltage increase smoothly and continuously from 0 to approximately 3.5 volts as vehicle speed increases from 0 to 48 km/h (0 to 30 mph)? OR: If available, a frequency counter may be connected to Pin 4 (Speed in ) and Pin 5 (Speed in -). Does the displayed frequency of the signal increase smoothly and continuously from 0 to approximately 667 Hz at approximately 48 km/h (30 mph)? OR: * If neither a voltmeter nor frequency counter is available, vehicle speed control may be used as a good indicator. If it works normally, then the speedometer module is at least receiving a speed input signal and the wiring and sensor & tone ring can be assumed to be good.

This is tuff to do; suggest using str8 pins to back probe the connector

================

For reference purposes:

PSOM Pointer PSOM Pointer Waiver TSB 96-21-11 for 92-96; "..The speedometer needle may waver and or a light surge may occur on some vehicles..." read more

Source: by Ford via miesk5 @ http://home.comcast.net/~miesk5/tech..._bulletins.htm

This also addresses the tone ring & PSOM unit

EXCERPT; ISSUE: The speedometer needle may waver and/or a light surge may occur on some vehicles when speed control is used at highway speeds between 80-113 km/h (50-70 mph). This may be due to slight dents/chips in either the exciter ring or the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) and air gaps between the VSS and the exciter ring.

ACTION: Replace the Programmable Speedometer/Odometer Module (PSOM) if required. New PSOM's come with increased immunity to system variability. Refer to the following Diagnostic Procedure for details.

DIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURE

BRONCO/F-SERIES - Perform normal PSOM diagnostics per Pinpoint Tests "H" and "J" of the 1996 F-Series/Bronco Body/Chassis Service Manual, Pages 13-01-30 through 13-01-32 and Pinpoint "B" of the 1996 Powertrain/Drivetrain Service Manual, Page 10-03-11.

Any slight dents, chips, etc., in either the exciter ring or VSS will create needle waver. Measure air gap between the VSS and exciter ring. It should be 0.38-0.51mm (0.015-0.020"). Check exciter ring runout per the same ring gear backface runout procedure of the appropriate model 1996 Powertrain/Drivetrain Service Manual, Section 05-00. Make sure the exciter ring is mounted correctly to the ring gear. If runout is more than 0.1mm (0.004"), perform the differential runout check per the procedure in the appropriate model 1996 Powertrain/Drivetrain Service Manual, Section 05-02A or 05-02D, to find cause and repair as needed

Tone Ring Inspection; some pull VSS Sensor off and inspect tone ring teeth for obvious damage...

Tone Ring Inspection; "Take off the rear diff cover. Check the Ring Tone gear. It is located on the left hand side of the ring gear. Look to see if any of the teeth have been notched (from debris floating around in the diff.) Usually a spider gear. If the ring tone gear has been notched, it will need to be replaced to fix your speedo reading. Jack it up and rotate the tires to look for the teeth to be notched/broken/bent..."

Source: by Bighibbi at FSB

Defective VSS; "... Anyway, the autozone VSS looks almost identical to the ford VSS. They are both now made of plastic. You have to look very closely to see minor differences. However, the magnet inside does not budge in the ford part, no rattling noise at all. The Autozone part rattles when shaken, ie. the magnet has room to move inside the plastic housing.[/b]It's was a big lesson for me. Wrong readings from the VSS can cause so much E4OD problems...erratic shifting, late shifting, hard shifting, feeling like it was in neutral, as well as engine cutting off at stop lights---Even if it registers correct readings on your speedometer..."

Source: by bkne40d

yo,

check BBA; by consensus the best re man 4WABS Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU)s are from BBA Reman

4WABS Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU) & Module Sources "...Used price locally is $150.00; 60 day guarantee; Babaganoosh wrote; "...BBA did the rebuilds on ABS Modules for my old VW/Audi Shop. They were super inexpensive, fast, friendly, and only had one issue with them ever and it was 50% my fault anyways (keep in mind it's VW stuff anyways...". by consensus the best re man 4WABS Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU)s are from bba-reman.com; BBA quotes $200 plus shipping for repair of/my HCU; "It usually takes about 3 days from receipt to repair..." miesk5 UPDATE, check w/BBA first; they may have stopped re-man ops.

Source: by Babaganoosh & miesk5

http://www.bba-reman.com/uk/index.aspx

Thanks miesk5 I got it fixed. I bought another control module from a jy and it didnt fix it so I decided to replace place the new sensor I bought from O'Reilly with the orignal factory sensor for giggles and hit the freeway and to my surprise I had no needle waiver. So out of curiosity what is the purpose of the ABS control module other then speed??

yo A,

GREAT!

The anti-lock brake electronic control module is an on-board diagnostic, non-repairable unit consisting of two microprocessors and the necessary circuitry for their operation. These microprocessors are programmed identically. The anti-lock brake electronic control module monitors system operation during normal driving as well as during anti-lock braking.

Most often, the microprocessors burn-out due to just heat over time.

In addition, the anti-lock brake electronic control module provides a speed signal to the programmable speedometer/odometer module (PSOM). Refer to Section 13-01 for additional information about the PSOM. Ford designed the VSS to PSOM ckt "in series" so that when the module self-destructs, the path to PSOM is gone; that is not good, they should have wired the VSS path in parallel to both PSOM & Module.

Under normal driving conditions, the microprocessors produce short test pulses to check the electrical system without any mechanical reaction. The anti-lock brake electronic control module continuously monitors the speed of each wheel to determine if any wheel is beginning to lock. When a wheel locking tendency is detected, the anti-lock brake electronic control module signals the appropriate solenoid valve in the anti-lock hydraulic control unit to open or close as well as the pump motor to turn on and recycle brake fluid back to the brake master cylinder. This results in moderate pulsations of the brake pedal and pump noise which may be heard in the passenger compartment. During normal braking, the brake pedal feel will be identical to a standard brake system.

Most concerns which occur to the anti-lock brake system will be stored as a coded number in the Keep-Alive Memory (KAM) of the anti-lock brake electronic control module. This means that once a code is stored, it will be retained by the anti-lock brake electronic control module even with the key in the OFF position. The codes can be retrieved by following the on-board diagnostic procedures.

Okay well here another question then. I have the front sensors disabled on my truck because the way the brakes act when im in mud and off road.. should I reconnect them or is it not really a big deal.

yo Ants,

here ya go

4WABS Cut-Off Switch Installation 93-96 Bronco

Source: by Froggmann (Ken P) at http://web.archive.org/web/20080907030336/http://www.froggmann.com/Bronco/Tech/ABS.htm

excerpt;

"...Those of you who have 93-96 broncos have pobbibly come across this problem, your going down a washboard road and suddenly have to hit the brakes. No matter how hard or light you hit the brakes you don't seem to stop. Or your on a little expedition in some sand or snow, and you suddenly get stuck enough where your tires are spinning, you hit your brakes so you can put your truck into park without blowing apart the star and lo and behold your F$*@ing ABS turns on not allowing your wheels to stop until 5 minutes later. Fun isn't it? Exactly, its a pain in the patutski isn't it. Now for those of you who use their late model broncos for daily driving know that the ABS, when your on pavement, works pretty dammed good. But, it can be deadly on the trail. Now, some of you have figured out how to disable it, and others are wondering how to disable it. This page will tell you how by a flick of a switch..."

See PICs and Read More!

enjoy!

[SIZE=10.5pt]Miesk5 - I have read hundreds of your posts and you know your stuff!   I am at my witts end with my 5.8L e4od combo.  [/SIZE][SIZE=10.5pt]Here it goes:[/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt]1992 F150 5.8l 4x4 and an E4od desert truck that will not be used on the street. I just rebuilt the engine, added Mass Air Flow and deleted the EGR. At the same time I had the E4od rebuilt and had brand new for solenoids installed. So I installed the drivetrain and now I am having shifting issues. I am able to put it in drive and it will sometimes shift to 2nd but then at 55 it will not shift to 3rd then is hard to downshift. I have put it up on stands and it does it time and time again. I have installed a new VSS in the rear ended and the speedo reads perfectly. I pulled the codes and I am getting 334 and 336 but nothing for the Trans. Last night I put in a new TPS and have correct parameters now so that eliminated codes 334 and 336. I cleared the codes and warmed up the engine on jack stands then gave the Trans another go. Engine started up perfectly, idled smooth then put her in gear and it shifted hard from 1st to 2nd, then the OD light began flashing. I replaced the solenoid pack and went through the valve bodies with my Trans builder and everything checked out. I cleared the codes and I am not receiving any codes but the Trans still is not shifting correctly. The Trans builder recommended replacing the PSOM or bypassing it.  I have read that the 4wabs could be an issue.  Is it possible to bypass 4wabs and the PSOM in their entirety? [/SIZE]

yo 92,

WELCOME!

Did you do both KOEO and KOER self tests?

I hoped to see a ABS OR 4WABS Related Code; but you can try and bypass the 4WABS Control Module (IF you Have 4WABS); if not, there is no bypass @ Control module for rear ABS in a 92) located under W/S Washer/coolant Recovery Tank

4WABS Control Module CONNECTOR Bypass for PSOM Operation due to Bad 4WABS Control Module; "...jumper 14 to 21, & 39 to 22..." MIESK5 NOTE;. I did this on our 96; The 4WABS Control Module was toasted; 2 yard 4WABS Control Modules were also bad; NO RETURNS!

"...jumper 14 (CKT 530, LG/Y)to 21 (CKT 519 (LG/BK) & 39 (CKT 491 (O/LB)to 22 (CKT 523, R/PK)..."

http://web.archive.org/web/20131009145541im_/http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v252/turboghost/ABSConnectorw-jumpers.jpg

http://web.archive.org/web/20131009145541im_/http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v252/turboghost/4wabscollage.jpg

For Delayed or Harsh shifts; look @ this by Ford;

http://www.diesel-dave.com/vehic/manual/stj/stj71a24.htm#extract_1037

============

DTCs 334 and these can cause drivabilty problems;

DTC 334 EGR (EVP) EVP circuit above the closed limit of 0.67 volts; "...Failed sensor, & as by rla2005 (Randy) wrote; carbon between EGR pintle valve and seat holding the valve off its seat. Remove the EGR valve and clean it with carbon remover. Prior to re-installing see if you can blow air through the ****** side of the EGR by mouth. the egr is not closing properly which can cause detonation. remove the egr and clean off any carbon built up on it with carb cleaner and a brush if necessary. The EGR Valve Position (EVP) Sensor used exclusively by Ford, can be the cause of driveability problems without ever setting any trouble codes. The relationship between the EVP sensor and the EGR valve is important to understand. Either one being out of spec can cause similar symptoms. Understanding this relationship will help you to diagnose uncoded driveability problems like stumbles, hesitations, rough idles and stalling..."

Source: by rla2005 (Randy) & miesk5

DTC 334: CHECK FOR DTC 558 in Key On Engine Off (KOEO) or Engine Running (KOER) Self-Test indicates the EGR valve and/or EGR Valve Position (EVP) sensor may not be fully seated in the closed position. The EVP sensor voltage is greater than the closed limit voltage of 0.67 volt. "...Breakout box pin numbers correspond directly to EEC connector pin numbers. Because of the preload on the installed EVP sensor, it is difficult to determine whether the EGR valve is seated or the EVP sensor is in contact with the EGR valve stem. Possible causes: Poor continuity in EVP sensor harness. Non-seated EGR valve. Damaged EGR valve. Damaged EVP sensor. Damaged EVR solenoid. Damaged Powertrain Control Module (PCM). Key off. Is DTC 558 present in KOEO Self-Test? Yes GO to DN10. No GO to DN21. DN21 RERUN KOEO AND KOER SELF-TEST WITH EGR VACUUM DISCONNECTED. Disconnect vacuum hose from EGR valve and plug hose. Rerun KOEO and KOER Self-Test. Is DTC 334 present? Yes GO to DN22. No CHECK EVR solenoid for obstructions. SERVICE as necessary. If OK, REPLACE EVR solenoid. RECONNECT all vacuum hoses. RERUN Quick TestDN22 CHECK EVP SENSOR AND EGR VALVE OPERATION Key off. Disconnect EVP sensor. lnspect the connectors on harness and sensor for damaged pins, corrosion, loose wires, etc. Service as necessary. Remove vacuum line from EGR valve. Exercise EGR valve by applying and releasing vacuum with a vacuum pump. Reconnect vacuum line to EGR valve and electrical connector to EVP sensor. Rerun KOEO and KOER Self-Test. Is DTC 334 still present? Yes GO to DN23. No The original DTC 334 was the result of poor continuity at the EVP sensor connector or binding of the EGR valve stem by contaminants. Testing complete. DN23 CHECK EVP SIGNAL VOLTAGE; Key off. Disconnect Powertrain Control Module (PCM). Inspect for damaged or pushed out pins, corrosion, loose wires, etc. Service as necessary. Install breakout box and connect PCM to breakout box. Key on, engine off. Measure voltage between Test Pin 27 and Test Pin 46 at the breakout box. Is voltage greater than 0.67 volts? Yes GO to DN24. No REPLACE PCM. REMOVE breakout box. RERUN Quick Test. DN24 FAULT ISOLATION CHECK; The fault has been isolated to the EGR valve or EVP sensor. Due to the nature of this particular fault, the EGR valve is suspect because of its vulnerability to contamination and carbon build-up from the exhaust flow. If the engine runs rough at idle, this is a good indication that the EGR valve is not fully seated rather than a worn or damaged sensor. Remove the EGR valve and EVP sensor. Inpect both components for contamination, unusual wear, carbon deposits, binding and other damage. Service as necessary. (Use Rotunda EGR Valve Cleaner 021-80056 or equivalent if needed.). Reinstall EGR valve and EVP assembly and run KOEO and KOER Self-Test. Is DTC 334 still present? Yes REPLACE EGR valve. REMOVE breakout box. RERUN Quick Test. If DTC is still present, REPLACE EVP sensor. No The original DTC 334 was the result of EGR valve contamination, binding or a worn or damaged EVP sensor. Testing complete..."

Source: by Ford

DTC 336; EVP circuit voltage above maximum voltage with zero EVR duty cycle

So last night I found out that my 1992 did not come with 4wabs.  I unplugged every electrical connection and cleaned with Electrical Contact Cleaner and blew with air then reconnected every connection.  I attempted to wire the VSS directly to the computer (as some mustang cars guru's recommend)  but it would **** the engine once the tires were moving. So I put it back together as factory and ran it with.  The CEL came on and the OD light began to flash.  I cycled through all the gears and it would clunk into drive and park as if the torque converter was locked up.  I shut off the engine and restarted and the clunking went away???   Then i ran the KOEO and KOER Test and came up with the following:  KOEO Code:  111  KOER Code:  Insufficient EGR Flow (i have an EGR delete kit).    My PSOM is very steady and when driving on the street it is about 4mph off.  Could it still be faulty?  Tonight I am going to double check the MLPS and borrow my friends PSOM to see if that fixes things.   Any other ideas? 

Last night I swapped out the PSOM and MLPS from a good running vehicle and i got the same issue.  No codes shifting poorly, not going past third.  Then I gapped the VSS from .045" to .02" from the Tone ring and began getting a different reaction from the transmission.  It was shifting through 3rd and would jump into OD then back out then back in.    I believe the VSS is the culprit (even though it is brand new) so tonight i will swap it out to see if it is truly the issue.    Thanks for your help y'all.  

yo,

Tone Ring Inspection; "Take off the rear diff cover. Check the Ring Tone gear. It is located on the left hand side of the ring gear. Look to see if any of the teeth have been notched (from debris floating around in the diff.) Usually a spider gear. If the ring tone gear has been notched, it will need to be replaced to fix your speedo reading. Jack it up and rotate the tires to look for the teeth to be notched/broken/bent..."

Source: by Bighibbi

This is by Ford;

Sensor, Anti-Lock Brake

Inspect the rear brake anti-lock sensor (2C190) for loose metal particles and clean if required.

Sensor Ring, Anti-Lock

Examine the rear anti-lock brake system (RABS) anti-lock speed sensor ring to see that it is firmly pressed onto the differential case (4204) and check it for dented, chipped or missing teeth that could result in erratic RABS performance. If damage is found, remove and replace anti-lock speed sensor ring.