Starter went start, now can't stop

Hey guys,

Had a starter go bad, and changed it. Worked fine for a couple of days then it wouldn't start. So I changed the starter solenoid. Worked fine for a couple of days, then wouldn't start. Left it came back tried, and started right up. So I changed my voltage regulator, and starter solenoid again. Worked fine, then wouldn't start again. Took it to a mechanic friend, and he dropped it off today. Leaving work, started vehicle, and it wouldn't stop starting. I had to disconnect the battery to stop it. I figure something is making contact somewhere. But where? Thanks

84 302

Where RU gett'n these parts...?

Only way the starter will spin is when 12V hits that post on starter.

It can only get there thru the solenoid.

Rule of thumb...if a part can get you stuck...don't buy a China made part. [-X

Is there any other place that makes them now? I get them from work(advance auto). So should I change the solenoid again?

that or check your ignition switch

Just did, but will try again

Good point..! key switch can get junked up & fail to release. :glare:

Well folks it was the starter Solenoid. Third one in 5 days. At least that is taken care of. Thanks for the advice.

Scuba..,

THANKS for the report back as to the results/cure..!!!!! /

--- That rarely happens & it always helps others with like issues...! >< <'>

yo,

From other Ford & Bronco Forums and info there seems to be a large range of defective parts coming through the parts stores from other countries;

gearheadmike; oil pressure Sender (switch) in a 95; Thanks Got it fixed it was the new switch it must have been a faulty one i got it from autozone so that explains lol i found a new one laying in my garage which was an identical match to the factory one that came out of my truck poped that sucker in and works like new lol

hizootiemizark; 95 XLT 5.0 Get a Motorcraft PCV when you replace it. I got a cheap one from the Zone that was crap.

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by Glayd

Took my distributor to a machine shop today to have the PIP sensor replaced (I don't have a press). What should have cost me maybe $20 in labor ended up costing me $65 (plus an extra $30 for a "Made in USA" sensor) because the Echlin part I got at NAPA was poorly made and wouldn't fit. I ended up with a Standard sensor (which is made by the same damn company!~this one just happened to be an oldie that was sitting on the shelf at the machinists)... I've noticed that a lot of the stuff at NAPA has been slowly converting over to Chi-Com junk. Echlin MP711

Duralast TPS sensors for our Bronco's went through 4 in 3 years.

Radius arm bushing from Oriellys are really bad. Just a couple of really hard pieces of plastic that do not compress at all.

NON OEM Ford TFI modules dumping anywhere from right out of the box to maybe 3 months later... ( Sorsen comes to mind WAY too quickly )

tailgate motors from autozone have the bolt holes 1/8 off so they don't fit. I went to 3 stores and all of them have this new plastic body

gp sorenson speed sensor for 94 bronco, its a part 94s didnt even have.

Duralast lifetime brake pads. They wear out in 5000 -7000 miles. Becomes a pain to change them out. They are cheap ($30), bot not worth the hassle to ahve to go through a brake job every 3-4 months

dorman HELP window regulator plugs. gone through two sets, second is still in there. they deform and allow the motor to keep spinning after the window is all the way up or down. really annoying.

Everything I've purchased from Autozone has been junk. I did'nt know it was junk until I started using actual Motorcraft and Ford parts. A good example is the fan clutch. Bought one from Autozone made in China, put it on and it sounded like an airplane propeller when it kicked in. Got another one from NAPA which was built entirely different and it worked better. Over the weekend went to the yard, got a fairly new original Ford clutch and put it on. OMG! what a huge difference! Also if you look at the fins on the original Ford part they are angled and there are lots more of them and the spacing seems to be consistent. If you look at the other junk make ones they are nothing like the original.

I'm posting this so that hopefully others might learn from my headaches.

I've had my BKO about 7 months now and she was most likely used as a farm truck before I got it so she was pretty beat to ****. So I started fixing her up:

In the process of engine repairs, exhaust system and suspension I also did the following:

Went to Autozone and got a new water pump - It failed 2 months later -

Replaced it with one from NAPA

Went to Autozone and got a new fan clutch - sounded like a B52 bomber taking off when it kicked in - Replaced it with one from NAPA

Went to Autozone and got a new belt tensioner - the ****** sqeaked loudly-

Replaced it with one from NAPA

Went to Autozone and got a new EGR solenoid - constant code 34/35 started showing up- Replaced it with one from NAPA

Went to Autozone and got a 195 degree thermostat that never opened

Replaced it with one from NAPA

Finally recently got a smog pump from Autozone - constant squeaking

Replaced it with one from NAPA

To make a long story short - in trying to save money I cost myself alot of time and headaches.

The moral of the story is - Don't buy the cheap **** Chinese made crap from Autozone. Even Pep Boys has better quality.

Since upgrading the quality of the parts I've been using to restore my BKO

I've probably gained 3 to 5 MPG, peace of mind, and a much smoother running engine.

Also in case anyone is wondering about the quality of JBG - I just installed my new rear drive shaft from JBG and the quality is great, vibration free, perfectly balanced and my BKO shifts and runs like a new truck.

Hope this is helpful to someone else

=======

Just so you know the auto zone heater cores do not fit the inlet and out let's are too far apart. JBG ones do fit. 78 with factory a/c

by josh jarrell

& NAPA said they had the part, so we took the existing unit with us and headed into town. Their squirrel cage was the wrong diameter, the wrong height, AND the wrong rotation! We ended up being able to save the old squirrel cage and put it on the new blower motor. by SDDL-UP JAN 2014

=============

by miesk5;

NAPA Storm Vision WS Blade Review; "...; made in China. At $1.00, I bit and got bitten back BADLY. yeah.. It did not hook onto to the arm's Hook-slot CONNECTOR because it is too Wide (see Review below by DVE); this is why NAPA is selling 3 blades w/refill for a price cheaper than a Texas Made Trico brand REFILL..."

ANCO...refills... not even close now. They used to fit perfectly... now it's more garbage from China. Adv Auto Parts Manager said none of the Chinese crap fits and walked over and gave me the Rain X Blades for free because it was snowing and he was p***ed because he saw me outside trying to get the ANCOs on.

Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS); also called RABS Sensor & Differential Speed Sensor (DSS) Defective; "... The VSS was probably working fine the entire time (except the DOA Vatozone ones)..."

by ****-sidewards

-------

Fake parts reportedly cost Ford $1B Figure detailed for U.S. Chamber study the first time an automaker has put a price tag on burgeoning problem.January 22 2007: 8:35 AM EST

NEW YORK (CNNMoney.com) -- Counterfeit auto parts are costing Ford Motor Co. $1 billion a year, according to a published report.

"The Detroit News said that Ford (Charts) will report that figure Wednesday as part of a U.S. Chamber of Commerce study on the problem of counterfeit goods for U.S. businesses. The paper says that it is the first time an automaker has released a cost estimate for the extent of the problem.

Counterfeits get more realistic

The paper also reports that counterfeit auto parts have become a $12 billion problem worldwide, with $3 billion in phony auto parts sales in the United States.

The paper says Ford not only loses money on sales of legitimate parts, but counterfeit parts also cost the company money through warranty repairs when it has to replace faulty parts that make it onto their vehicles.

"That ($1 billion) figure is probably light," Joe Wiegand, Ford's global brand protection manager, told the paper.

The News reports that the Chamber of Commerce study will also look at counterfeiting problems for office equipment maker Xerox (Charts), drugmaker Merck (Charts), privately held athletic shoe maker New Balance and Bendix, an auto supplier.

Ford competitor General Motors (Charts) did not put a cost estimate on the extent of the problem for that company. The paper reports that GM has seized more than $250 million in counterfeit auto parts in the past two decades, shutting down hundreds of counterfeiting operations."

=====

Non-Bronco:

wheel bearings for a JD RX 75 riding mower that are made in China and do NOT fit or come close to the specs. Local JD dealer pulled em off after we danced around for a week 3 yrs ago. The JD Store owner pulled out 23 wheel bearings; those made in China were off so much that they couldn't be pressed on the shaft... a few older bearings by Fafnir were right on Specs; oh yeah the Chinese forgot to add the zerk .. as for tires...LOL!...a pal wrote "the tires were actually about one inch narrower than a Carlisle tire with same tread and specs. The tires didnt even have a name on them, just "China" ..."

I can add a bit to this scenario, it happened to me about a month ago.

Turned the key, started engaged, wouldn't disengage and the battery died before I could get the ground cable off the battery post. Too late to get to the store, so first thing in the morning, I went to NAPA and got a new solenoid. Engine started up, then went off like normal when I turned off the key. Driving around town an hour later, I went to turn it on, and the starter was stuck on again. This time I got the cable off in time. Restarted the engine, and drove home. Picked up a new solenoid from O'Rielly Auto, and things worked for a day, then the same thing happened again. This time I got a new (exchange) solenoid AND a starter switch. I replaced them as a set, and things worked fine since.

I put the soleniod from NAPA in, and it worked fine, too. I keep it as a spare now.

Here's what I think is happening... When the starter switch (on the steering column) gets stuck, the solenoid contacts are closed, and the high amp draw can make an arc jump, possibly welding them. In my case, the solenoid wasn't the cause, it was a symptom. It's possible that this problem can burn out windings on the starter motor itself, so it's not something that you want to live with for any length of time.

Moral of the story: If you're going through solenoids, change the starter switch, too. It's probably best to replace them as a set, swapping the solenoid whenever you put in a new switch. If the solenoid is a little funky, it might still fail-closed on it's own, and take your starter with it.

My two cents

yo BB!

Well, I'm staying w/ Ford Motorcraft® parts or Ford Motor Company Genuine Parts exc for those made by the OEM for Ford; which were Purlolator for air filters; Wells for ignition items, etc.

Ford Motor Company Genuine Parts - Original equipment parts for Ford, Lincoln and Mercury vehicles.

Motorcraft® Parts - High-quality, vehicle-specific replacement parts recommended by Ford Motor Company

Of course Ford may be buying from new companies now, but...

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On Navy gun boats we would turn the starter relay's contact disc around after it became worn down

Update;

yo,

MSD-6 by Sixlitre

"...I did have an MSD-6 on mine, that's what I'm basing these unscientific estimate on. The F#@*Ing thing spent more time in the mail back and forth to Texas so I just said enough and left it on the bench..."

oil pressure sender (switch)

Thanks Got it fixed it was the new switch it must have been a faulty one i got it from autozone so that explains lol i found a new one laying in my garage which was an identical match to the factory one that came out of my truck poped that sucker in and works like new lol.

by gearheadmike @ http://broncozone.com/topic/23480-damn-oil-pressure/

Hall Effect (Profile Ignition Pick-up (PIP) Signal, Stator, RPM)

"...I recently had a problem with my PIP module in my distributor. I bought a Cardone from Auto Zone. I am now on the third replacement..."

by akojsp

1995 XLT

5.8

Hall Effect (Profile Ignition Pick-up (PIP) Signal, Stator, RPM)

"...miesk I had problems with the AZ pick up on my 89 last year I ended up useing the old one that I replaced it with not a peep since..." by huggyb1972

Hall Effect (Profile Ignition Pick-up (PIP) Signal, Stator, RPM)

"Took my distributor to a machine shop today to have the PIP sensor replaced (I don't have a press). What should have cost me maybe $20 in labor ended up costing me $65 (plus an extra $30 for a "Made in USA" sensor) because the Echlin part I got at NAPA was poorly made and wouldn't fit. I ended up with a Standard sensor (which is made by the same damn company!~this one just happened to be an oldie that was sitting on the shelf at the machinists)... I've noticed that a lot of the stuff at NAPA has been slowly converting over to Chi-Com junk. Echlin MP711"

"NON OEM Ford TFI modules dumping anywhere from right out of the box to maybe 3 months later... ( Sorsen comes to mind WAY too quickly )"

"So it turned out that autozone sold me a faulty TPS. I've returned it and bought a motorcraft one. No more problems so far."

JRoo 02-21-2012, 11:29 PM

Air Filter

"...am finding that the Purloator A24378 air filter is not fitting well in my 96; the gasket is too large to close the box properly without force. I can see the gasket between the cover and box bottom edges.

Purolator was the OEM to ford for our Broncos; so I'll go back to the FORD Genuine Parts FA-1046

..." by miesk5

"AC accumulator from Napa/Autozone/Advance. All have the same part number. some aren't anywhere close to fitting. I finally got one that was close but the bracket has to be modified. Again same part number. They're listed under different brands for each store.

part number is 33091. All have the same picture IIRC."

by pfun41

Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS); also called RABS Sensor & Differential Speed Sensor (DSS) Defective; "... Anyway, the autozone VSS looks almost identical to the ford VSS. They are both now made of plastic. You have to look very closely to see minor differences. However, the magnet inside does not budge in the ford part, no rattling noise at all. The Autozone part rattles when shaken, ie. the magnet has room to move inside the plastic housing.[/b]It's was a big lesson for me. Wrong readings from the VSS can cause so much E4OD problems...erratic shifting, late shifting, hard shifting, feeling like it was in neutral, as well as engine cutting off at stop lights---Even if it registers correct readings on your speedometer..."

Source: by bkne40d

VSS SENSOR for 4WABS in a 95; "I got it fixed. I bought another control module from a jy and it didnt fix it so I decided to replace place the new sensor I bought from O'Reilly with the orignal factory sensor for giggles and hit the freeway and to my surprise I had no needle waiver." by ants95bronco 11 JAN 2015 http://broncozone.com/topic/24615-4wabs-on-95-bronco/

"...Not a defective part per se but defective auto part stores. The big three auto part stores (Pep Boys, O'reily, Autozone) have pretty much run all of the independent auto part stores out of town. This weekend I found out the last place that carried the only accessory belts I use, the Goodyear Gatorback, no longer sells them. I guess it's mail order only for now on.

And no, Napa doesn't carry them either. They just carry the same crap Anco belts everyone else does.

Oh yea and A-1 Cardone has gone to a "Universal" fit smog pump that doesn't fit at all. They re-casted the housing and it's so bad it won't even bolt to my Bronco anymore. Doesn't matter the stupid things only last 9 months anyway... by Froggman

"...BWD MAP Sensors from advance

Frying MAP I have gone through 3 MAP sensors within 6 months. Randomly to just start the bronco and check engine light comes on I hit the gas and it dies. Every time pull codes and get 22. I replace MAP and everything works fine. I have replaced the connector, all grounds and cables are fine. Vacuum line is fine and new.

Update on problem with the new MAP from NAPA everything seems to be working good going 3 weeks now. Only a little hesitation at start up and acceleration..."

by Saltlife85

Ok, so the problem went away and now it has come back with a vengeance. I have a new starter and I keep burning up the solenoid. I am at my wits end and frankly am getting ready to set the truck on fire. I have thought about just changing the wiring and go with a more modern starter system. Is this possible?

my guess is your problem is between the selinoid and the ignition switch. all starting systems are the same, key to selinoid to starter just some have a remote selenoid like the fords and some are built into the starter which are a p.i.t.a.

Thanks, the question is where.

"....and I keep burning up the solenoid."

Hmmmm.., what exactly does this mean...? Does it smell.., get hot.., melt..??

Once the key is released fr. "start" & allowed to return to the "run" AND the starter stops spinning, the solenoid is no longer "energized".

The solenoid is, in fact, a 12V full voltage/amp contact switch. I've not heard of one "burn'n up"...?

Usually, the contact washer just gets contact corrosion, like M5 mentioned, &

they just stop passing voltage.

They're easy to take apart & polish or flip the washer & clean its contact post.

It either holds the contact in or it will not engage and become hot.

"It either holds the contact in.."

Unclear... What is "IT" ... does this mean with the key turned to start..then starter keeps working after key is released.? (yet again!)

"..or it will not engage and become hot.."

The "solenoid" will not engage & gets hot...? In this case, is the key in the on, or start position..? Or, does it heat up in both key positions.?

I'm not up on the later models (several wires on solenoid) as some of these other kind folks but.., this has 'earmarkings' of a wire in the wrong place.

And., doesn't this circuit run thru a 'fusable-link'..?

Seems to me, that "heat" would 'pop' a f-link.

Got ya....When I turn the key to start the solenoid will either keep the starter starting or it will not start at all and the solenoid has a burnt plastic smell to it. No clue on the fuseable link.