Removing air pump

I am going to remove air pump from my -88 351W bronco. Emissions are not issue here (car is so old) so thats why + it is time to do some exhaust modification...

Is there awailable "eliminator pulleys" for bronco´s smog pump (like mustangs)? Or should I just leave that pump spinning without hoses?

And second is there anything special that I have to do, when I remove that system (some wacuum lines or something else)? Or is it just simple bolt off everything that is linked to this system?

yo Mikko!!

Removal, Belt Part Numbers & Applications in an 88 5.8

Source: by El Bicho (wwatsonh, Will)

I know there are lots of threads about removing, deleting, taking off, or otherwise getting rid of one's smog or air pump. Well, for the 5.8, aka

351W, with air conditioning, with the single tensioner and serpentine belt setup, the part numbers that I have found are below:

Kelly Springfield 915K6

Goodyear 915K6

Durkee-Atwood 915K6

Dayco 915K6

Gates K060915

ArmorMark K060915

NAPA NBH25060915

NAPA PBH4060915

The application that you can use for your average bonehead parts guy to be able to find it is:

2000 Mercury Grand Marquis 4.6L V8

And yes, it's 91.5" long - 2 inches shorter than the factory belt. Hope this helps someone.

Will

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Removal; "...What you need to do is electrically plug in the TAB and TAD solenoids but remove the vacuum lines, then all the air injection plumbing and valves can be removed and the heads plugged. The EGR is a seperate system from the Thermactor and the computer treats it very differently, it also helps increase milage and power so it's a good idea to keep it anyway. If you have the DPFE system there is no way to bypass it without the computer knowing and throwing a code so you may as well keep it intact. you'll get codes if you remove the solenoids, the easiest way to avoid this is to just leave them plugged in. The TAB and TAD you could fake out pretty easy, but even the old EGR system can't be faked because the computer both commands valve movement and watches for feedback to confirm it happened, so a dummy resistor won't cut it. .."

Source: by Conanski (Paul (Conan) O)

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and for a diff engine

Removal, Belt Part Number 882K6 in an 88 5.0

Source: by Barbaric35

It has been posted before butthe smog pump removal belt part number 882K6 posted here works great, however in my install it did require a couple of small things to be done.

Be cause the idler pulley sits higher then it did with the factory belt I had to cut 3/4" off the end of the thermostat housing end of the upper radiator hose to move in closer to the engine to keep it from rubbing on the new location of the idler. I also had to move the tee fitting on the heater hose over to passenger side behind the alternator, with the shorter upper hose there was not enough room to keep it so the hole between the big heater hose and the small one from the tee wrapped around the upper radiator hose.

Also don't forget to plug the vacum lines that are no longer used after removal of the smog pump.

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It appears that generally, most years and engines need the 2" shorter belt

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Stainless Steel Thermactor Smog Plug pic

Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at http://rjminjectiontech.com/?p=9

Plug the holes in the back of your cylinder heads when removing the exhaust crossover tube. Comes with 2 plugs and Loctite. Hex head makes installation easy when the engine is still in the vehicle. $15.00

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more pump stuff in my site at http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=417

GL Mikko!

I have a 93 with the 351 and wen I replaced the heads I took the air system off and have not have any codes but I made my own vacuum lines with mostly 3/16 fuel line there is a vacuum thing on the passanger side above the exhaust and one on the hose that comes up from the cat they go to two different sensors I just tied them together just remember the black goes to the top and tie the bottom ports together with small hose I used fuel line just because they are thicker I will post some pics tomorrow hope this helps,Sam

miesk5 => do you mean that I can throw that pump away and just buy 2" shorter belt? And there is no need for any "eliminator pulleys"?

bronco5.8 =>

I will post some pics tomorrow

Click to expand...

That would be nice!!!
Thank you both /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

yo MIKKO!

Keep the pump in-place or store it somewhere for re-sale there or in case you need it due to environmental concerns (every been in los Angeles CA on what is supposed to be a "sunny day"? or laws.

No pulley needed.

Look @ this diagram, I think it's close or same as your lay-out

the pump in lower left is still there but by-passed.

http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2000/02/quicktips/beltrouting.jpg



vs a diagram in 89 5.0/5.8

by Waltman

Sorry been working double shifts raking in the overtime but I finally got. a chance to take pics.If you have any questions about what to put where feel free to ask

Plug the holes in the back of your cylinder heads when removing the exhaust crossover tube

Click to expand...

What size are those bolts?

I have a 91 with a 5.8. I have short belted and removed pump. I have removed EGR valve and plugged all assciated air lines and exhaust crossovers. I used plugs from RJM tech along with an EGR eliminator. I also removed TAB and TAD solinoids. I hope to run duel exhaust and headers.

I am also running K&N cold air and MSD ignition.

Yes I am getting codes from the computer all referring to the EGR.

I am currently getting 15 MPG .

I have heard that I should leave the TAB & TAD.

I have also heard that I should leave the EGR. Too late!

I had hoped for better milage than I am currently getting.

I am also considering a Mass Airflow swap.

If none of this works.........

heads, manifold and a carb.

I would appriciate hearing from those who have experience with this.

PS

I couldnt afford a pre77.

I have a 91 with a 5.8. I have short belted and removed pump. I have removed EGR valve and plugged all assciated air lines and exhaust crossovers. I used plugs from RJM tech along with an EGR eliminator. I also removed TAB and TAD solinoids. I hope to run duel exhaust and headers.

I am also running K&N cold air and MSD ignition.

Yes I am getting codes from the computer all referring to the EGR.

I am currently getting 15 MPG .

I have heard that I should leave the TAB & TAD.

I have also heard that I should leave the EGR. Too late!

I had hoped for better milage than I am currently getting.

I am also considering a Mass Airflow swap.

If none of this works.........

heads, manifold and a carb.

I would appriciate hearing from those who have experience with this.

PS

I couldnt afford a pre77.

yo Jimi61,

on the CODEs

Ryan (owns RJM tech) wrote elsewhere, "Code 33/332 is the desired result, if the light still comes on you'll need the $300-$500 chip. Or just live with the light!"

and; "...When performing computer Self-Test after installing this kit it is normal to get code:

33 / 332 EGR valve opening not detected.

The computer is acknowledging that the EGR is permanently closed. This is your desired

result. However if you get the following codes:

31 / 327 - EVP circuit failed below the closed EGR limit of 0.24 volts

32 / 328 - EVP circuit failed below the closed EGR limit of 0.24 volts

34 / 334 - EVP circuit failed above the closed EGR limit of 0.67 volts

35 / 337 - EVP circuit failed above the open EGR limit of 4.81 volts

Check your connection again; make sure there is no resistance in the harness.

NOTE: This device is not intended for pollution controlled vehicles. Local, State, and Federal

laws may prohibit the removal or disabling any emission control device on any emission

applicable vehicle"

http://96.0.50.30/EGR_eliminator.pdf

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15 MPG is great!

does the Bronco have larger tires than stock? If so, have you replaced speedo gears to correct speedo and odometer?

btw J, It is better to begin a new post so we don't confuse your issues, and year, engine etc. with original poster.

Sorry to hijack the thread, but I am curious about the steps needed for doing this on a '86 EFI V-belt? I've already removed the smog pump (stuck my OBA in it's place) and called it good. The smog pump has been disabled for several years, so I've never tried to plug lines or electrical connections.