A/c Conversion

Anybody tried this A/C converter kit??

http://www.jcwhitney.com/webapp/wcs/stores...3&storeId=10101

My truck and I could use some A/C this summer!

It hasn't been used for several years. The thing may leak like crazy.

Then there's this other product that I was wondering about:

http://www.jcwhitney.com/webapp/wcs/stores...3&storeId=10101

What's the chance some of these could help an 85 F-150?

KC

Yes, I have converted mine from R12 to R134A, and it cools the truck much faster.

The first thing you need to do is replace ALL of your "O" rings. **** them with a small amount of Vasoline, USE NOTHING ELSE. Since it hasn't been used in a while, go ahead and replace the Expansion Valve, and the Reciever/Drier. You can pick all of these up at your local Autozone(the O rings come in an assortment pack, so get 3 packs to make sure you have what you need). Replace them now, it WILL save you money in the end.

Then, you will need to go to an A/C service center to have your system Vaccumed out to a negative 3 lb's. This will clean out any R12 left in the system, and allow you to get enough R134A in there to cool properly. Most of the problems you hear about R134A, is because they didn't draw the system down to negative pressure.

You will need to disconnect the harness that connects to your Reciever/Drier, and make a female to male spade jumper, to bypass the Low Refrigerant switch(you'll see what to do when you pull it), to get the compressor to come on.

Install the adapters, and charge it up following the instructions. Don't forget to reconnect your Low Refrigerant switch when finished. Depending on your system type, you may need more refrigerant than the kit supplies. I had to add about a half extra can to get up to the proper pressure.

You can get this kit at Walmart, and Autozone too. Why wait on shipping to save 50 cent ?

Swp8. how many O rings does a Bronco have? Do'es the kit have instructions on where the O rings are located? How do you know that you have enough R-134 in the system?How about compressor oil?Thanks Brian

How many licks does it take to get to the center of a Tootsie Roll Pop? :-"

It all depends on the system.

NO. The kit does not tell you where they are. All of your A/C connections will have "O" rings. Including the compressor. Some connections require a spring tool(only 1 on my '89). the "O" ring kit that Autozone carries is not Bronco specific. It is an A/C assortment pak...that is why I recommended buying 3 packs(about $3.00 each).

The conversion kit will give specific instructions on oil, and final pressure, It comes with oil and a gauge.

I recommended BIGREDTRUCK replace these items, because his system has been out of use for several years. His Reciever/Drier($28), and Expansion Valve($26) are definately contaminated, and, or clogged.

Also, I am not sure what year Ford started using the "Defrost-A/C Cycle Switch", it is recommended that you cycle the A/C several times during the winter to prevent the expansion valve from clogging, and to keep the "O" rings oiled. On newer trucks, the A/C cycles when you turn the defroster on.

Hope this covers the bases. Let us know.

Instead of using R134-a you can put a direct R-12 replacment in thats called RB-276. all you have to do is pull all the old r-12 out make sure it will hold a vaccume and the put in the free zone (RB-276) in. The good thing is it takes less of it to do the same job and you do not need a special liscense to buy it. It cost about $8.00 a can 16oz the stuff is gggggrrrreeaat!!!

Then you don't have to change all those O-rings?Autozone got it?Thanks Brian

Brian, the "O" rings are for the LEAKS, not the refrigerant type. If your system won't hold a charge, or vaccume, you need to replace the "O" rings. It's a 45 minute project, and cheap insurance.

RB-276 is not readily available here, and **** I can get all the R-12 I want for free, I went to the R-134A, because it's ozone friendly.

Thanks all.

This looks cheaper than having to replace an entire A/C unit!! /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

I'm sure this will help improve the mood of passengers...

KC /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

if you dont get all the old oil and r12 your system may be a time bomb waiting for a hot day. it like to hide in the small cans in the low side.

/emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

I just finished mine.('86 302EFi fac air) (My brother has been in heating and air since dirt was new) Oring kit from Advanced Auto. All orings should be green when you're done. Pull the compressor and drain the oil.(Mine was red) Use some flush to clean it out.(advanced auto) Put new oil in. He recommended PAG but you may have trouble finding PAG in a can you can use. Ester will work and you can find ester quick charges later if you need to. Put everything back together and vacuum it down as far as it will go. I used a cheap harbor frieght venturi pump and got it down to only 22". (kinda good) let it sit under Vac with out pumping on it and make sure it doesn't "leak" back up toward 0". If it does take it apart again and fix it. Put in 3 (regular size) cans of liquid in the high side. (hold it upside down) Don't let the high side go over 300 lbs. Most hoses aren't rated much above this. Use another can to top off the low side with vapor. You don't have to use a jumper on the low pressure switch/compressor on switch if you are patient and can wait out the "cycling" of the compressor. It took me about 3 hours all told and now I get -20 degrees off of outside air. Very important: don't let any dirt get into or on your fittings/compressor while changing the orings. My brother said its VERY important to get all the old oil out. I did use the oring kit for the replacement of the compressor orings and they were red, but these are the Ford recommended and my brother said they should be fine. I changed the Dryer too.

Good A/C is coooooolllllll. /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

P.S. I did also pull the evaporator(the part that works like the heater core in the fire wall) and cleaned the leaves and dirt out of it.

Thanks everybody,

I'm getting some help to work on it this weekend...

Cool !!!!!!!

KC

I just bought a 1988 bronco with factory ac and all of the compression fitting are loose or finger tight. How do i find out if there is anything left in the system? The guy I bought it from said the lines where disconected when he replaced the engine. What should I replace? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Joe