Starting Problem

I went out today to drive my Bronco, and the starter won't even turn over. I have power for the lights, and 12.5v at the solenoid. The post for the starter cable has no power, and it will start when I jump the soleniod posts. I figure that's the problem, but have a question about the ignition module. Could it be bad, too, or would the starter not crank if the module was bad? I'm thinking of changing it out, looks like it's the original one from 20 years ago. Thoughts & comments???

If it starts when you jump out the terminals on the solenoid, then the ignition module is fine. The problem is the solenoid itself /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

I would change it and not even worry with the ig module /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

If it ain't broke don't fix it [-X . The component that gives the most problems in the ignition, is the pickup. When it fails, the symptom is, the truck starts, runs for a few minutes untill it starts to warm up *** then shuts off like the key switch was turned off. However, I have gotten bad pickups right out of the box.

Having had problems in this area, I now keep a spare TESTED pickup and module on hand just in case. I keep a little road kit in my truck, which I hope to never need :-" , with ignition parts and some home made ignition test parts.

good luck,

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Thanks for the replies, dudes!!! I keep a spare solenoid on hand, but it's somewhere in my toolboxd in my Z-71 that seems to always be in the shop. I may pick up a spare ign. module next time I'm in town. My Chevy is falling apart at the moment... I'd rather be driving the Bronco anyway.

Just for your info, here is the start circuit from the 83 EVTM and I'm 99.9% sure it has been the same for any Durraspark II sustem no mater what year.

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Tahnks for the diagraqms, Seabronc. I changed the solenoid and cleaned the cables. Bronco now starts. /

I have an 83 4x4 Bronco....and the ignition system that is in there is a

Dura spark 3....and that's very quite simple....but where I'm having problem is when I'm working on the electoral system...so far I can not find electoral diagrams that match my wiring....I thought maybe someone had switched it out(under good harness')...from another...but it was only driven 8,000 miles in 10 years...from 83 to 93...and Sat parked under a tree for 21years....till I rescued it..I have Ford factory manuals....for engine and chassis also the Chilton's book for 1980 thruto the last year they made them and the other f-pickup series....BUT NON MATCH MY IGNITION SYSTEM AND WIRE DIAGRAM COLOR CODES.....THIS GET FRUSTRATING.... HELP

Electrical system.....spell check knows better than me and what word i want to use and when

Yo orogopher,

Seabronc has an 83 too and has a lot of Duraspark info and diagrams. Should be here soon.

I have some info & diagrams such as;

Duraspark Conversion, 3 to 2 in an 83

Source: by Michael C (collinsperformance, The Money Monster) athttp://www.supermotors.net/registry/6364/53083-2

Overview, Wiring Diagram, Conversions, Durapark 2; "...Duraspark II electronic ignition was used on 1977 to 1984 Ford V-8 passenger car and light truck engines. This article refers to the Duraspark II control module with a BLUE strain relief bushing, one 4-pin connector, and one 2-pin connector. Another version of the system has an additional 3-pin wiring connector, and two YELLOW strain relief bushings..." @ http://www.wrljet.com/fordv8/duraspark.html

miesk5 note, article includes info on the resistance wire.

If you have any Broncos questions, it is better to ask each in a new thread so that old farts like me don't confuse your issues with the original poster.

I will try to move your post and my reply to a new thread if I can.

Well this is an expirence I would rather not go thru again......while trying to test..and fix my 83 with the Dura spark ign.no run syndrome...I discovered that...only by sheer luck...that there was a short GROUNDING out to the body...supplying the body with a steady 13.5 volts...why wasbthis a problem....I'm suprisedvi have any hair left....for the three or four days prior to finding the short......I kept COMMING up a crap load of false readings from volt meter...one moment....a couple components would test good....and another not work....test and retest...and trace out wires...continuity checks....it was like trying to find the pea under the nutshell....but someone kept moving the pea.....round and round I went....I'm guessing the short was causing conflict with the ignition components and my test....the short ended up being that brilliant engineering idea of the two electrical hot leads connecting to the dome light....the dome light sits in a double walled DUTCH OVEN we call the roof..the insulation around the hot leads turns to fractured coal....sitting in that DUTCH OVEN....and the leads easly ground out..because the mounting screws carry the voltage to the light...and the lamp housing is the ground for that circut.....the top of the lamp was black from all the burnt dust....any way long story short....my advise...if you think you might have even a small short...fix it BEFORE working on ignition especially if meter testing....seabronc THANK YOU FIR YOR POST...AND YOUR PATIENTS... RIGHT NOW IVE GOT IT NARRIWED DOWN TO EITHER THE SWITCH AT THE TRANMISSION...THE YELLOW WIRE TO FROM THE IGN. SWITCH..LAST BUT NOT LEAST THE RED WITH GREEN STRIP....AND MAYBE THE DRIVERS SIDE FUSELINK...BUT I DONT THINK SO

Yo orogopher,

The dome light short has plagued Ford trucks and Broncos through 69!

For example, "Odometer & Keyless Entry Inoperative; Fuse 8 Overload, Possible Short In Circuit 54 TSB 95-14-11 for 94-95 Bronco & F Series; also affected Inoperative Courtesy, Map, Engine & Glove Compartment, Dome, Vanity, & Cargo Lamps & Inoperative Power Mirrors

Some customers may have concerns that the following features are inoperative:

All courtesy lamps

Map lamps

Engine compartment lamp

Glove compartment lamp

Odometer in the instrument cluster

Dome lamp

Power mirrors

Lighted vanity

Cargo lamp

Remote Keyless Entry (RKE)

This is due to insufficient clearance between the outer roof panel of the cab and a map/dome lamp mounting ****** causing a short in Circuit 54, which causes Fuse 8 (15 amp) to become inoperative. This fuse protects the wiring for the above vehicle features.

Replace existing dome mounting screws with new, shorter screws. Refer to the following procedure for service details.

BACKGROUND

Three screws are required to mount the map-dome lamp to the inner roof panel of the cab. Two (2) of the three (3) screws are used to complete two electrical circuits, 53 and 54. Circuit 53 is after the lamp switches and is "cold" ("cold" means that 12 volts are not present) & Circuit 54 is before the lamp switches and is "hot" at all times ("hot" means that there are always 12 volts present).

The 52814-S36 ***** is approximately 25.4mm (1") long. When there is a sufficient amount of downward force applied to the outer roof panel of the cab, the panel will make contact with the ***** that has Circuit 54 (12 volts) on it.

For example: When the brushes and dryer pass over the roof of the truck in a car wash or when traveling at highway speeds. As the roof panel contacts the ****** it causes a direct short-to-ground. When this occurs, Fuse 8 will be overloaded (15 amp), open and disable the listed features.

SERVICE PROCEDURE:

1. Carefully pry pillar/dome lamp lens from interior lamp body.

2. Remove screws retaining interior lamp (map/dome) to roof trim panel.

3. Install new screws (52802-S36, 19mm).

NOTE: ANOTHER OPTION WOULD BE TO REMOVE OLD SCREWS AND CUT/GRIND APPROXIMATELY 6.35mm (1/4") OFF THE END AND REINSTALL.

4. Reinstall pillar/dome lamp lens

52802-S36B ****** 19mm"

Well this is an expirence I would rather not go thru again......while trying to test..and fix my 83 with the Dura spark ign.no run syndrome...I discovered that...only by sheer luck...that there was a short GROUNDING out to the body...supplying the body with a steady 13.5 volts...why was this a problem....I'm suprised i have any hair left....for the three or four days prior to finding the short......I kept COMMING up a crap load of false readings from volt meter...one moment....a couple components would test good....and another not work....test and retest...and trace out wires...continuity checks....it was like trying to find the pea under the nutshell....but someone kept moving the pea.....round and round I went....I'm guessing the short was causing conflict with the ignition components and my test....the short ended up being that brilliant engineering idea of the two electrical hot leads connecting to the dome light....the dome light sits in a double walled DUTCH OVEN we call the roof..the insulation around the hot leads turns to fractured coal....sitting in that DUTCH OVEN....and the leads easly ground out..because the mounting screws carry the voltage to the light...and the lamp housing is the ground for that circut.....the top of the lamp was black from all the burnt dust....any way long story short....my advise...if you think you might have even a small short...fix it BEFORE working on ignition especially if meter testing....seabronc THANK YOU FOR YOOR POST...AND YOUR PATIENTS.after reading your reply about the resister wire...and how you explained it and other areas to check....I get it...and for that I thank you..mine won't start with battery jumper to the coil..& RIGHT NOW IVE GOT IT NARROWED DOWN TO EITHER THE SWITCH AT THE TRANMISSION...THE YELLOW WIRE TO FROM THE IGN. SWITCH..LAST BUT NOT LEAST THE RED WITH GREEN STRIP....AND MAYBE THE DRIVERS SIDE FUSELINK...BUT I DONT THINK SO

Yo,

I replied to your PM with this;

Yo orogopher,

"Ignition Lock Cylinder Adjustment & Switch Pin-Out Diagram & Continuity Testing (Logic Tables) in an 83; "...The following proceedure is from the 1983 Ford Service manual, with a few minor wording changes, but should work for any year." Also included are a couple of illustrations from the same proceedure to help you visualize it..."

http://broncozone.com/topic/7243-ignition-switch-adjustment-proceedure/

by Seabronc @ http://broncozone.co...ent-proceedure/

One of the Attached Thumbnails has the ignition switch test.

See if this is what you ignition have; but I foubt it.

1981 Bronco/F Series Electrical & Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual (EVTM) ​​by Gary @ http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/1981-evtm.html

Ignition stars @

http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/start-ignition--carb-circuits.html

Yo,
Hang on, Seabronc is logged-in!!!!!