Wiring

Ok so I decided to tackle the time consuming job of splicing old burnt/breaking wire's in the engine compartment.

I only had about 13 wires or so, some on the passenger side @ 7. And the rest on the drivers side.

Now i got the ones on the drivers side done. taped up and ready for new plastic tubing. Fired the truck to see if I got the wires atlest good enough to start it. "there were alot of wires that just kinda "stoped" with this like insulation on the tip of the wire"

Ok no I should say I do have a wiring diagram out of a chilton. Though the wires dont match in color so i just kinda

used color matching. Anyways to keep it short the truck wont start since ive done the wires on the drivers side.

When I try to start the truck the starter silinoid just kinda like grinds. So I went a bought a new silinoid. That didnt solve it. If i hold the key to start position the battery starts to boil over. "Like its over charging" And I could see this if the truck was actually turning over. But its not doing I try to jump the silinoid and that didnt work, the starter is new,new plugs, new blaster 2 coil. I need help getting this thing to turn over.

As for the battery boil, that is caused by a high current drain from the starter when you hold the key in the start position, or if the starter is not trying to turn the engine over it is possibly from a short in the cable from the solinoid to the starter.

The MSD system introduces some wiring changes and your old diagram is no longer valid. Most of the old wiring harness for the ignition is no longer of any use, and explains the taped off wires.

I have the same ignition system on my truck. If you have a carbed engine, I also have a redrawn diagram of the Start/Ignition including the color codes. I suggest you do your rewiring one function at a time, starting with the Start/Ignition. Hopefuly you havent cooked the MSD.

Good luck,

>-

Seabronc said:

As for the battery boil, that is caused by a high current drain from the starter when you hold the key in the start position, or if the starter is not trying to turn the engine over it is possibly from a short in the cable from the solinoid to the starter.
The MSD system introduces some wiring changes and your old diagram is no longer valid. Most of the old wiring harness for the ignition is no longer of any use, and explains the taped off wires.

I have the same ignition system on my truck. If you have a carbed engine, I also have a redrawn diagram of the Start/Ignition including the color codes. I suggest you do your rewiring one function at a time, starting with the Start/Ignition. Hopefuly you havent cooked the MSD.

Good luck,

>-

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Its just msd distributor with the stock modual. Im sorry if I said it had msd ignition. But still some of the wires that come out of the ignition modual arent the same is the wires form the "harnes or whats left. Maybe I should take some pics of this and post? you might be able to see what im talking about......As far as battery boil , well I kinda figured that it was due to a short from the wires that i messed with. Cause it didnt do this tell i touched them "again".Im so at a loss and i really need this to run again. (

I wish i could help you out more here dude, but im just as bad with wiring. The best advice i got for you is take you time a trace everything to whats what. That what i had to on my 86 takin the smog equipment off and the AC after it broke.

good luck man

Damn, wish I had something to say or to help with, I *just* bought a set of factory manuals thru Ebay last week but as far as I know only one has shipped so far and I haven't received it yet. The Haynes & Chilton's manuals will be next to worthless with something like this. You really need either the appropriate factory manual OR the Ford EVT (electrical, vacuum troubleshooting) manual to figure it out. Chiltons's & Haynes just won't cut it for something like this.

Like Broncobill78 said, the popular Readers Digest versions of the factory manuals are useless in anything but basic stuff. Go on eBay and search for "Ford Bronco EVTM", if you don't find one for the 1985 FSB then contact one of the sellers and let them know what you are looking for. It will be for, "1985 Bronco / F150 / F350". You didn't say what engine or what ignition system you have in it, add your truck vitals to your signature it makes answering questions easier.

The attached diagrams are for a 1983, but for a Duraspark system it is the same as 1985. If you have EEC but not Fuel injection I can give you the 85 version. Also, I can get you the diagrams that go with the 85 EFI if you have that in your truck.

You may or may not have the throttle kicker on a carbed 351, it depends on other equipment like AC.

Good luck,

>-

Sorry bout the signiture I dont know why its not showing up. but its a 84 with a 351W I have msd distributor and coil. but the standard ignition modual.It has a 4bbl edelbrock carb,and intake. No ac, C6 NP208, 8.8 D44 ttb. No cruise. should I take some pictures of this? Would it help? for some reason my signiture shows up now. LoL sorry bout that again guys.

Thanks for the time. I hope this is something that I can fix. I am getting my driving privliges back again and really need this to be on the road in the next week or so....

OK bellow im going to post some pics of this see if you guys might be able to tell me where these should go...

I know that I have emissions stuff that i can bypass but for now im more concerned about the wires that are cut/where the need to go. Im confused at this point. Is there anything else that could cause the bat. to boil over or to make the silinoid just "grumble" like its a low bat. Even though its a good charged bat....

Im taking the battery to the auto store today to have it tested. Still no start.

Those pictures are of no help. Use the diagram # 18 and trace the wires using the ignition module as a start. It looks like whoever wired that truck used non-standard colors. Just go from the ignition module to where the diagram shows it should. The color codes are on the diagram.

Is the starter turning over when you try to start it?

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Jakes85bronco said:

Im taking the battery to the auto store today to have it tested. Still no start.

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I doubt that it will start till you get the wiring straitened out. If you were on the forum when I am, we could use the chat to talk this over. I've been looking at your pictures and even though they don't help much, we can use them as a place to start.

Good luck,

>-

So I took the battery in to have it tested today. It was bad. Im going to go out in the morning and put the new battery in and see if i can figure the wires out.

Seabronc I printed off the diagram and im going to trace the wires out of the modual, also im going to trace them from the relay. And to answer your question about it the starter turning over. No it wasnt, but it was because the battery was dead apperently. Im going to put the battery in tomorrow morn and see what happends. I still have the wires to figure out, but I think a new battery was a good start.

I will keep you posted if i can get it started or not. I also got some new batterys for my digital camera today. So I can take better pic's...

Here's a couple pointers for you, bro. On the driver's side connectors by your ignition module, they can get really corroded inside. If you are able to pull them apart without destroying them, some dielectric grease may help with the connections, if they aren't dirty. Don't use a cleaner like Dow Scrubbing Bubble to "purdy" them up. It will melt the plastic. Alot of the charging/starting problems I had with my 84 Bronco were realted to insufficient ground from the battery to the frame and engine. I would burn up 2-3 solenoids a year. Found that while I had a good frame ground, the garage that installed the motor before I bought the Bronco didn't put a ground to the engine. That helped alot. Also, check the wiring on from the back of the alternator to your battery. Mine was nearly melted through but was still partially charging the battery. I pulled all of that crap out and am in the process of installing a new harness with the 460 swap. That might be an extreme measure in your case, hope you can repair just what's needed to get back to running good. The wiring diagrams in the back of the Haynes repair manual are somewhat hard to read, at least for me, but do show the circuits you have. Only problem may be telling exactly what color the original wiring on your engine is. Trace it back to an area that's taped up or covered, where it hasn't been exposed to years of weather. And while a test light is good for checking if you have power or not, a MultiMeter works better, JSM84