1969 Bronco No crank.

I have been trying to fix all of the horrible wiring that had been done on my 69 that i just bought a few weeks ago. I was trying to get all the gauges working, when after I was done fixing some wires the bronco wont even crank over. I can get it to start if I jump the solenoid with a screwdriver. I have 12V at the ign switch, All of the fuses are fine, I am a bit questionable of a relay and a "solenoid" looking thing that is on the pass. side wheel well. Its wired to the solenoid + terminal and the volt regulator, not sure what is is or if its even supposed to be there. I have 12V at the Ammeter, all the lights ect on the truck work. Im kinda stuck. I know that I need to check the other terminals at the ign switch, Should they all have 12V when the key is in the "on" position? Also The "S" terminal at the starter solenoid should I have 12V there when the key is in the "crank" position?? (sorry this is so long) How do I test the starter soleniod to see if it has gone bad? Thanks for all your help!

Yes you should have 12V when the key is in the crank posistion. It sounds like the neutral sfety switch or a connector to it is not making contact. Trace out the wire that goes to the start solinoid, it goes all the way to the key switch via the neutral safey switch on the left hand side of an automatic transmission with a jumper in a connector by the clutch. If you have a manual transmission the switch is on the clutch.

Good luck,

>-

Seabronc said:

Yes you should have 12V when the key is in the crank posistion. It sounds like the neutral sfety switch or a connector to it is not making contact. Trace out the wire that goes to the start solinoid, it goes all the way to the key switch via the neutral safey switch on the left hand side of an automatic transmission with a jumper in a connector by the clutch. If you have a manual transmission the switch is on the clutch.

Good luck,

>-

Click to expand...

I was looking for the neutral safety switch this morning.... Its not on the clutch pedal, I dont see anything on the side of the transmission, Now when you say " the neutral safety switch is on the clutch" Do you mean "in" the bellhousing? I guess I have never come across one in there...

A manual trans 69 Bronco does not have a neutral safety, or a clutch interlock on the pedal either.

On your starter relay (solenoid on the fenderwell)

you need to have three wires.

One from the batt to the sol.

one from the solenoid to the starter.

and a third wire, ( 12-14 gauge) that is on the "s" terminal of the relay.

Check to make sure the little wire hasn't come off the terminal , and that it has good contact, if it does, check for contiuity from the terminal to the ignition switch.

STLKIKN said:

A manual trans 69 Bronnco does not have a neutral safety, or a clutch interlock on the pedal either.

On your starter relay (solenoid on the fenderwell)

you need to have three wires.

One from the batt to the sol.

one from the solenoid to the starter.

and a third wire, ( 12-14 gauge) that is on the "s" terminal of the relay.

Check to make sure the little wire hasn't come off the terminal , and that it has good contact, if it does, check for contiuity from the terminal to the ignition switch.

Click to expand...

The wire is tight, By checking for continuity it must have voltage passing through it right?, not "OL" on a volt meter. Is any amount of voltage ok?

Continuity is the ohms reading on your meter...

you should have close to zero ohms resistance from the sol to the ignition switch.... 69 wiring diagram says this wire is red with a blue stripe. Wire is the same color from the sol to the ign switch. (do not check for continuity when there is voltage running through the wiring, you can pop a fuse in you digital volt meter, or overload an analog meter)

If checking for voltage from terminal "s" on the ign switch to the terminal at the sol you should have battery

voltage when the key is held in the start position only.

wire in question is #32 in the diagrams...

good luck.

Drew

STLKIKN said:

Continuity is the ohms reading on your meter...

you should have close to zero ohms resistance from the sol to the ignition switch.... 69 wiring diagram says this wire is red with a blue stripe. Wire is the same color from the sol to the ign switch. (do not check for continuity when there is voltage running through the wiring, you can pop a fuse in you digital volt meter, or overload an analog meter)

If checking for voltage from terminal "s" on the ign switch to the terminal at the sol you should have battery

voltage when the key is held in the start position only.

wire in question is #32 in the diagrams...

good luck.

Drew

Click to expand...

thanks for crash course.. Ill check that wire next chance I get. Also thanks for the wiring diagrams there much nicer than the ones I had. How do you check the solenoid itself?? Where should/shouldnt I have continuity?

Due to the solenoid needing voltage to act, this will be a voltage test.

key off.. no voltage except the terminal from the battery

key on, from batt side terminal to the "I" terminal

key in start position, full voltage, all four posts.

Thanks for the info, ill see what I can come up with tomorrow, got some goodies on the way (Ign Switch, Key&cyl, volt reg, start solenoid) I figure just replace them all because there all so cheap anyway. Ill let you know what I come up with....

Found the problem my red/blue wire was broken at the fuse block. Starts good now, it was pretty hard to see though..

Broken wires are a pain in the butt....

glad you found your problem, thanks for updating your post!

Drew