Yo Dave,
Project M.P.G. in a Centurion 460; miesk5 Note, Results are Comparable to Tests in other Ford Engines.
Source: by performanceunlimited.com @
FOUR WHEELER Magazine's Project M.P.G.
Some use this information while others write that the results are not achievable.
COLD air intake - insulate air intake from grille entry area to throttle body.
Air Tube & Box Insulation pics in a 94 5.0; Ken used Reflectix Insulation, avail @ Lowes. etc. ST16025 - 16" x 25 feet. miesk5 Note; Ken installed the K&N® & removed the cold air intake tube that runs to the top of the radiator; but he could have installed the intake tube section later.
Source: by Ken B (Kenny's 94)
Is Check Engine Light ON while driving?
Check Engine Light (CEL) comes on when the electronic engine control system is not working properly. The check engine warning indicator comes on briefly when the ignition switch lock cylinder is turned to ON, and should turn off when the engine starts. If the check engine warning indicator does not come on when the ignition switch lock cylinder is turned to ON or if it comes on while the vehicle is moving, the system is malfunctioning
If the CEL does not light up at all when starting it; then suspect that bulb is burnt-out or loose, socket was damaged by PO or shop, etc. or someone removed it, which does happen, unfortunately.
Try a
Self Test for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)s by my pal, BroncoJoe19
Code Reader..... - 80-96 Ford Bronco - Ford Bronco Zone Early Bronco Classic FullSize Broncos
A helper is good to assist in reading Codes; best is to take a cell fone vid and replay it.
Some basics;
Visual Check
1.Inspect the air cleaner and inlet ducting.
2.Check all engine vacuum hoses for damage, leaks, cracks, blockage, proper routing, etc.
3.Check EEC system wiring harness for proper connections, bent or broken pins, corrosion, loose wires, proper routing, etc.
4.Check the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), sensors and actuators for physical damage; IAC, TPS I see was replaced, etc.5.Check the engine coolant for proper level and mixture.
6.Check the transmission fluid level and quality. See E4OD Fluid Condition Check Below)
7.Make all necessary repairs before continuing
8. Check headlights
The engine temperature must be greater than 50° F for the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) Self-Test and greater than 180° F for the Key On Engine Running (KOER) Self-Test.
Run it around to heat the engine up and shift thru all gears including Reverse.
Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic); or in Neutral for a Manual & release clutch.
Turn off all accessories; radio, lights, A/C, heater, blower, fans, etc. (close driver's door)
Then turn off engine and wait 10 seconds.
Do KOEO test First
You should see 3 digit code (s) if any
Post Code(s) here according to:
KOEO
&
KOER
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Following applies to California, etc.
CALIF REFORMULATED GAS (CARFG) - SERVICE TIP
TSB: 96-10-7 very minimal mpg loss.
FUEL ECONOMY - EXPECTATIONS VS ACTUAL
99-26-9 for 91 F250 Revised
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Fuel Saving Tips
I have always factored in any cost to improve MPG in the overall $ "savings".
Free:
Reduce weight of the Bronco and tools, accessories and ... passengers; driver's get a pass; also, grille guards, side steps, etc.
Ensure that brakes are not dragging
Driving style/ light foot - Foot on Pedal too much while accelerating and high speed driving over speed limit
proper tire pressure - Under inflated tires Increase rolling resistance 1-2 mpg;
Dirty air filter Causes excessively rich fuel/air mixture 2.0 mpg;
Worn spark plugs Cause inefficient combustion, wasted fuel 2.0 mpg;
Worn O2 sensor Unable to detect and adjust air/fuel mixture 3 mpg (not it your year);
Dirty or substandard engine oil Increases internal engine friction 0.4 mpg;
Loose gas cap Allows fuel to evaporate 2.0 mpg
Potential loss in fuel economy if all of the above were neglected 11.4 mpg
Add them all up and you get yaris mpg. Lol
Check Timing
Try
Sixlitre Tune-Up @ ignition upgrade and timing bump (no 56K)
& more Items that Cost $:
alignment
tune-up. plugs - pull and check/re-gap, replace if nec, same for plug wires (check for insulation cracks, and resistance (more on this later), distributor cap and rotor
brake parts - always $ WELL SPENT
I use Ford Motorcraft parts via AMAZON; they are VG at delvy and esp pricing; I bought a $150.00 DPFE Sensor (not incl. sales tax) for $50.00 with free shipping and no state sales tax; same for the IAC sensor.
Some buy from a Ford pn on-line or local parts stores that list the Ford PN, but the ads show the PN as a reference only and the supplier may be a company off-shore. other than a Ford supplier.
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High Quality Motorcraft TFI Ignition Coil Attributes
Source: by SeattleFSB (Seattle FSB) @ MSD 8227 coil problems
Many Bronco owners shop for an ignition coil by looking for the highest voltage available. But I venture to say that there is much more to look for in achieving both a quality ignition system and saving money in the long run.
For clarification, it takes approximately 10-14,000 volts to initiate the spark across the OEM spark plug gap. After the initial arc, the voltage required to sustain the arc is much less and drops off significantly. So while you may have a 48,000v coil you can't actually get that across the plug. The extra power becomes reserve voltage which compensates for worn plugs, increasing resistance in wires and carbon fouling. This increased stress can require an additional 1-5000 volts.
Fact is a higher voltage coil does not work any better, it just lasts longer due to having a higher reserve reducing heat. You cannot push more than 20,000 volts across a spark plug without bad things happening. If you were to try you would see arcing down the side of the plug, across carbon buildups at the electrode end and out any weak points in the wire insulation and connections.
The bottom line is the ideal coil output required for normal applications is about 30,000 volts. So no, your coil does not need to be 48,000v for proper ignition. The benefit would be in having enough reserve to compensate for high resistance due to a worn or altered ignition system.
This is why the Sixlitre Tune recommends a 48,000v coil and larger spark plug wires – to compensate for a substantial increase in resistance from larger than specified spark plug gaps. You are adding resistance as the spark attempts to reach ground. This in turn causes the plug wires to break down and decreases the service life of the rotor, distributor cap, spark plugs and increases the chance of spark scatter within the Distributor Cap.
Think about it, you are setting your spark plugs at a maximum gap even before wear. The higher voltage coil does not reduce stress and wear on your ignition system; it only compensates within a larger margin and then ultimately becomes dependent upon the quality of construction for survival. When opening up your spark plug gap from factory specifications you must be prepared to check your secondary ignition system annually, as opposed to about 40,000 miles with a stock vehicle, or risk performance decreases down the road.
With that being said, IMHO the Motorcraft DG470 TFI Coil is one of the most dependable 48,000v TFI Coils on the market. This is largely due to the quality in design, testing and construction. I have personally had many dependability issues with other imported TFI Coils, such as MSD. Where a Motorcraft Coil has lasted 15 years, I have went through three MSD coils in five years. Your purchase of a TFI Coil should not be totally dependent upon the voltage, but strong consideration should also be made regarding the contruction attributes listed below:
Motorcraft TFI Ignition Coil Attributes
Insulation - Multiple coats on the primary and secondary windings to ensure no internal arcing
Radio-Frequency Interference (RFI) Suppression - Minimize electronic noise
Magnets - Hold strength for the coil to maintain proper energy output
Steel - Used in the lamination stack to ensure a consistent magnetic field needed to develop the required voltage
Coil Housing - Engineered to withstand extremes in temperature without cracking
Low Quality TFI Ignition Coil Potential Issues
Rough Running Engine or Misfires - Causing Check Engine Light
Fuel Economy and Power Decrease – Costs money and performance
Radio Frequency Interference – Affects radio, EEC, sensors, cell phone
Pre-Ignition and Detonation – Can cause engine damage
Weak Voltage Output – Can cause increase tailpipe emissions..."
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