Rering 300

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M

Mitch

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Got 1989 Bronco inline 300 4.9 6cyl. How rough is it to drop the crank without pulling the motor out 

 

miesk5

96 Bronco 5.0
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Yo Mitch,

Welcome!

See https://itstillruns.com/remove-crankshaft-under-car-4899570.html

Following by Ford for a 96 4.9, but similar with engine removed;

"Crankshaft



SPECIAL SERVICE TOOL(S) REQUIRED




Description


Tool Number




Rear Oil Seal Replacer


T89T-6701-AH




Crankshaft Seal Replacer/Cover Aligner


T88T-6701-A





Removal
  1. Remove engine (6007). Refer to Engine in the Removal and Installation portion of this section. Install the engine on a work stand. Remove the spark plugs (12405) to allow easy rotation of the crankshaft (6303). Drain the crankcase.

  1. Remove the oil level dipstick (6750).

  1. Remove the crankshaft pulley attaching bolt and lockwasher. Remove the crankshaft pulley (6312).

  1. Remove the engine front cover (6019) and gasket.

  1. Remove the flywheel (6375) and engine rear plate (7007).

  1. Rotate the engine on the work stand so that the bottom of the engine is up. Remove the oil pan, gaskets and seals. Remove the oil pump (6600) and oil pump screen cover and tube (6622). Discard the oil pump inlet tube gasket (6626).

    ani_caut.gif CAUTION: Do not rotate the crankshaft completely around; the rod bolts may damage the crankpin journals.

  1. NOTE: Make sure all bearing caps (main and connecting rod) are marked so they can be installed in their original locations.

    Turn the crankshaft until the connecting rod cap being removed is at the bottom of the stroke. Remove the connecting rod cap and bearings. Push the connecting rod and piston assembly up in the cylinder. Repeat this procedure and remove all connecting rod caps.

  1. Remove the pilot bearing. Refer to Flywheel in the In-Vehicle Service portion of this section.

  1. Align the timing marks. Remove the crankshaft gear. Refer to Crankshaft Gear under Timing Gears in the In-Vehicle Service portion of this section.

  1. Remove the main bearing caps and bearings and crankshaft rear oil seal (6701).

  1. ani_caut.gif CAUTION: Handle the crankshaft with care to avoid possible fracture or damage to the finished surfaces.

    Carefully lift the crankshaft out of the cylinder block (6010).

  1. Refer to Section 03-00 for cleaning and inspection procedures. Be sure the oil seal surfaces on the crankshaft and crankshaft sprocket (6306) are properly cleaned.

  1. Remove the main bearing inserts from the cylinder block and bearing caps.

  1. Remove the bearing inserts from the connecting rod caps and connecting rods (6200).

  1. Clean the crankshaft rear oil seal recess in the cylinder block and rear main bearing cap.

Installation

  1. ani_caut.gif CAUTION: Foreign material under the inserts will distort the bearing and cause a failure.

    If the crankshaft main bearing journals have been refinished to a definite undersize, install the correct undersize bearings. Be sure the bearing inserts and bearing bores are clean.

  1. Place the upper main bearing inserts in position in the bore with the tang fitting in the slot provided. Be sure the oil holes in the bearing inserts are aligned with the oil holes in the cylinder block.

  1. Install the lower main bearing inserts in the bearing caps with the tang fitted in the slot.

  1. ani_caut.gif CAUTION: Handle the crankshaft with care to avoid possible fracture or damage to the finished surfaces.

    Carefully lower the crankshaft into place.

  1. Check the clearance of each crankshaft main bearing (6333). Refer to Section 03-00. Seal the rear main bearing-to-block mating surfaces. Refer to Crankshaft Main Bearings in the In-Vehicle Service portion of this section.

  1. Apply a light coat of heavy engine oil to the journals and bearings. Install all the bearing caps, except the ****** bearing cap (No. 5 bearing). Be sure that the main bearing caps are installed in their original locations. Tighten the bearing cap bolts to 82-94 Nm (60-69 lb-ft).

  1. Install the ****** bearing cap with the bolts finger-tight.

  1. Pry the crankshaft forward against the ****** surface of the upper half of the crankshaft ****** main bearing (6337).

    ****** Bearing Installation

    a10364b.gif

  1. Hold the crankshaft forward and pry the ****** bearing cap to the rear. This will align the ****** surfaces of both halves of the crankshaft ****** main bearing.

  1. Retain the forward pressure on the crankshaft. Tighten the cap bolts to 82-94 Nm (60-69 lb-ft).

  1. Check the crankshaft end play. Refer to Section 03-00.



    If the end play exceeds specifications, replace the crankshaft ****** main bearing.

  1. If the end play is less than the minimum limit, inspect the ****** bearing faces for scratches, burrs, nicks or foreign matter. If the ****** faces are not damaged or dirty, they probably need re-aligning. Install the crankshaft ****** main bearing and repeat Steps 9-11.



  1. Coat a new crankshaft rear oil seal with oil and install using Rear Oil Seal Replacer T89T-6701-AH. Refer to Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal in the In-Vehicle Service portion of this section. Inspect the seal to be sure it was not damaged during installation.

  1. Install the bearing inserts in the connecting rods and caps. Check the clearance of each bearing. Refer to Connecting Rod Bearing in the In-Vehicle Service portion of this section.

  1. If the bearing clearances are to specifications, apply a light coat of engine oil to the journals and connecting rod bearings (6211).

  1. Turn the crankshaft throw to the bottom of its stroke and pull the piston all the way down until the connecting rod bearing seats on the crankshaft journal.

  1. Install the connecting rod cap. Tighten the nuts to 55-61 Nm (40-45 lb-ft).

  1. Check the connecting rod side clearance using a feeler gauge on each crankshaft journal after the piston and connecting rod assemblies have been installed. Refer to Specifications in this section.

    Clean the oil pan (6675), oil pump and oil pump screen cover and tube.
  2. Install the oil pump screen cover and tube with new gasket on the oil pump. Prime the oil pump by filling the inlet opening with oil and rotate the oil pump intermediate shaft (6A618) until oil emerges from the outlet opening. Install the oil pump. Tighten the attaching bolts to 14-20 Nm (10-15 lb-ft).
  3. Install the pilot bearing on the crankshaft for a manual transmission (7003). Refer to Mainshaft Bearing Roller in the In-Vehicle Service portion of this section.

  1. On a flywheel for a manual transmission, locate the clutch disc (7550). Install the clutch pressure plate (7563). Tighten the attaching bolts to 102-115 Nm (75-85 lb-ft).

  1. Turn the engine on the work stand so that the rear of the engine is up. Position the engine rear plate on the cylinder block. Position the flywheel on the crankshaft. Coat the threads of the attaching bolts with Pipe Sealant with Teflon® D8AZ-19554-A or equivalent oil-resistant sealer meeting Ford specification WSK-M2G350-A2. Install the bolts. Tighten the bolts to 102-115 Nm (75-85 lb-ft).

  1. Turn the engine on the work stand so that the front end is up.

  1. Install the crankshaft sprocket following the procedure under Crankshaft Gear.

  1. Install a new oil-coated crankshaft front seal (6700) in the engine front cover using Crankshaft Seal Replacer/Cover Aligner T88T-6701-A. Install the engine front cover and crankshaft pulley. Refer to Engine Front Cover in the In-Vehicle Service portion of this section.

  1. Apply Perfect Seal Sealing Compound F2AZ-19554-AA or equivalent oil-resistant sealer meeting Ford specifications ESE-M4G115-A and ESR-M18P2-A in the cavities between the rear bearing cap and cylinder block.

  1. Install a new crankshaft rear oil seal in the rear main bearing cap.

  1. Install new gasket on the crankshaft with Gasket and Trim Adhesive D7AZ-19B508-B or equivalent oil-resistant sealer meeting Ford specification ESE-M2G52-A. Install the oil pan.

    Install the oil level dipstick.
  2. Remove the engine from the work stand and install it in the vehicle. Refer to Engine in the Removal and Installation portion of this section. Fill the crankcase. Fill and bleed the cooling system. Refer to Section 03-03.
  3. Start the engine and check all gaskets and hose connections for leaks.

  1. Check the ignition timing."
 
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M

Mitch

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Hey miesk5 thanks started checking this out and found several things to read up on this project. Read a few still checking out more. This has already been a help and don't think you can get to much info. So thanks again.

 

Shaggy

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Hey miesk5 thanks started checking this out and found several things to read up on this project. Read a few still checking out more. This has already been a help and don't think you can get to much info. So thanks again.
Mitch, please signup to forums.  A lot of good info here and miesk5 is a top notch member here that knows alot about these older Broncos!

 
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M

Mitch

Guest
Thanks this really helpful. In the process however I found broken camshaft timing gear. The big fiber one. So the crank gear looks to be good but I should replace both as a set of is it that important? Thanks again for your time and help.

 
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M

Mitch

Guest
Got 1989 Bronco inline 300 4.9 6cyl. How rough is it to drop the crank without pulling the motor out 
I tried to sighn up days my answer to security question is wrong. 1965 first year for bronco rightThanks this really helpful. In the process however I found broken camshaft timing gear. The big fiber one. So the crank gear looks to be good but I should replace both as a set of is it that important? Thanks again for your time and help.

I tried signing up says I answered security question wrong. 1965 first year of the Bronco right?

 

miesk5

96 Bronco 5.0
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Yo Mitch,

➡️1966–1977: The Beginning
In 1966 the four-wheel-drive Bronco enters the scene in wagon, pickup, and roadster body styles, all with two doors. Ford’s assembly plants in Wayne, Michigan, and Valencia, Venezuela, handle the bulk of production. Riding on a stubby 92-inch wheelbase and its own dedicated platform, the first-gen Bronco is a simple, agricultural thing with solid axles front and rear and boxy if not timeless sheetmetal that would change little over its 12... yada yada



Following from 1996 F-150, F-250, F-350 (4x2), F-150, F-250 (4x4) Workshop Manual, similar to your year:


Timing Gear Backlash, 4.9L


  1. NOTE: Phenolic resin camshaft timing gear wears faster than hardened steel crankshaft gear.
  2. ➡️It is usually sufficient to replace just the camshaft gear if backlash is excessive.

Inspect crankshaft sprocket or gear for chipped, broken, or excessively worn teeth. If necessary, remove and replace 






Section 03-01A: Engine, 4.9L SFI


 





IN-VEHICLE SERVICE


Timing Gears


ani_caut.gif CAUTION: To prevent possible damage to the camshaft lobes, do not rotate the camshaft (6250) or crankshaft (6303) in the engine (6007) without the timing gears installed.

 
Camshaft Gear



SPECIAL SERVICE TOOL(S) REQUIRED




Description


Tool Number




Camshaft Gear Puller


T82T-6256-A




Camshaft Gear Replacing Adapter


T65L-6306-A





Removal

  1. Drain the cooling system and crankcase.

  1. Remove the engine front cover (6019). Refer to Engine Front Cover in the In-Vehicle Service portion of this section.

  1. Check the camshaft end play, the timing gear backlash and the timing gear runout. Refer to Section 03-00.

  1. Crank the engine until the timing marks are aligned as shown.

  1. Install Camshaft Gear Puller T82T-6256-A as shown and remove the camshaft gear.

Installation

If the camshaft end play, timing gear backlash and/or timing gear runout were excessive, make the necessary corrections before installing the camshaft gear.

  1. Make sure the camshaft sprocket spacer (6265) and camshaft ****** plate (6269) are properly installed. Align the gear keyway with the key and install the camshaft sprocket on the camshaft using Camshaft Gear Replacing Adapter T65L-6306-A. Make sure the timing marks line up on the camshaft and crankshaft gears.

    Install the engine front cover and related parts. Refer to Engine Front Cover in the In-Vehicle Service portion of this section.
  2. Fill crankcase with oil specified in Section 00-03. Fill cooling system. Refer to Section 03-03. Start the engine and adjust the ignition timing. Refer to Section 03-07A. Operate the engine at fast idle and check all hose connections and gaskets for leaks.

 
Crankshaft Gear

 



SPECIAL SERVICE TOOL(S) REQUIRED




Description


Tool Number




Crankshaft Damper Replacer


T52L-6306-AEE





Removal

  1. Drain the cooling system and crankcase. Remove the radiator (8005). Refer to Section 03-03.

  1. Remove the engine front cover. Refer to Engine Front Cover in the In-Vehicle Service portion of this section.

  1. Crank the engine until the timing marks are aligned

  1. Using a suitable crankshaft pulley remover tool, remove the crankshaft gear. Remove the key from the crankshaft.

Installation

  1. Install the key in the crankshaft keyway. Install the crankshaft gear using the Crankshaft Damper Replacer T52L-6306-AEE. Make sure timing marks are aligned properly on the camshaft and crankshaft gears.

  1. Replace the crankshaft front seal (6700). Install the engine front cover. Refer to Engine Front Cover in the In-Vehicle Service portion of this section.

  1. Install the radiator. Refer to Section 03-03.

  1. Fill crankcase with oil specified in Section 00-03. Fill cooling system. Refer to Section 03-03. Start the engine and check all gaskets and hose connections for leaks. Adjust the ignition timing to specifications on the Vehicle Emission Control Information decal. Refer to Section 03-07A.






 
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M

Mitch

Guest
Got 1989 Bronco inline 300 4.9 6cyl. How rough is it to drop the crank without pulling the motor out 

Thanks Miesk5 for the information it's all good reading. Man I sure it was 65 but I now to the master. Thanks again man I'll go sign up with the correct answer😎
I tried to sighn up days my answer to security question is wrong. 1965 first year for bronco rightThanks this really helpful. In the process however I found broken camshaft timing gear. The big fiber one. So the crank gear looks to be good but I should replace both as a set of is it that important? Thanks again for your time and help.

I tried signing up says I answered security question wrong. 1965 first year of the Bronco right?

 

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