Yo Dev,
Welcome to the USA and our site!
We have a 96, bought it new in May 96 and basically, we "over-maintain" it; meaning 3k mile oil/filter changes & ***** all filters changed, etc, using Ford's severe duty schedule.
One of the most reliable daily drivers and beach run/light off road vehicles we've have ever had (incl the ex 78 which was a great vehicle).
Still, we had minor problems that we addressed quickly.
Here is my checklist:
Confirm year with Vehicle Identification Number (VIN). VIN Decoder; 87-96 Bronco & Ford Truck @
Truck Parts and Truck Accessories
Our Navy Federal Credit Union suggests using
https://www.nadaguides.com for finding the "value" of a vehicle.
Order a CARFAX™. Although not all accident info is provided, other important info may be shown @
https://www.carfax.com
VINCheck® by National Insurance Crime Bureau is a free service provided to the public to assist in determining if a"... vehicle has been reported as stolen, but not recovered, or has been reported as a salvage vehicle by cooperating NICB member insurance companies. To perform a search, a vehicle identification number (VIN) is required. A maximum of five searches can be conducted within a 24-hour period per IP address." @
https://www.nicb.org/vincheck
While you take a test drive, have someone stay behind or follow and check for leak puddles, exhaust smoke, tire shimmy, etc.
Member dash_cam offers very good advice on having an independent inspection done at sellers location! If you cant inspect it yourself, post Location in the noobie section and ask members for their help or seek out an ASE certified shop in area to inspect it for you. ASE is National Institute for Automotive Service Excellence, read about it @
https://www.ase.com/About-ASE.aspx.
Find an ASE shop @
https://www.ase.com/Landing-Pages/Car-Owners/Find-a-Repair-Shop/Shop-Locator.aspx
Google each for reviews especially in Yelp, Facebook, BBB.
Besides the usual visual, driveability and leak checks, look for:
- oil pan rust - our's formed spots @ 62k miles - sand it down and prime/paint it w/Rust Bullet Automotive) & high temp. paint - too time-consuming replacement for such a basic thing as not having better gauge and paint by Ford
- try opening and closing tailgate and moving glass
- radiator plastic side seam leaks, esp. during engine cool-down period/overnight - our's leaked @ 50k miles & again just recently - look for leaks after engine has cooled down, esp overnight
- auto tranny - E4OD in 90 to 96 had a lot of improvements made by 96 so look for good shifts and see the maintenance records; fluids/filter should have been changed every 30k miles and less if used for towing. Pull the transmission dipstick out when the engine is running at normal operating temp. The level should read FULL. Look for leaks around pan from (front) Pump seal. Observe color and odor of the fluid. It should be red, not brown or black. Dark brown or black fluid that has distinct burnt odor, indicates a transmission in need of repair or overhaul. Odor may indicate overheating condition, clutch disc or band failure. Use an absorbent white facial tissue and wipe the fluid level indicator. Examine the stain for evidence of solid particles and for engine coolant signs (gum or varnish on fluid level indicator).
If particles are present in the fluid or there is evidence of engine coolant or water, the transmission pan must be removed for further inspection.
E4OD Transmission Control Indicator Light (TCIL) is a LED and overdrive on/off switch at end of the Transmission shifter stalk; flashing OD light is an indication of a transmission related trouble code in the Powertrain Control Module (PCM).
Is it flashing while driving?
Get a free diagnostic trouble code scan @ Parts Stores if you don't diy with a scanner.
- The M5OD is a top shift, fully synchronized, five-speed manual transmission (7003), equipped with an overdrive fifth gear ratio. All gear changes including reverse are accomplished with synchronizer sleeves.
Inspect the case for cracks, worn or damaged bores, damaged threads, or any other damage that could affect operation of the transmission. Inspect the machined mating surfaces for burrs, nicks or damage.
The clutch may be hard to depress and/or the clutch ***** cylinder may wear out prematurely on some Broncos. This may be due to the clutch ***** cylinder allowing hydraulic fluid to leak.
Preventative Measure; You should have the rubber shift cover plugs resealed at your earliest possible convenience. A common occurrence with this model transmission is the rubber plugs shrinking over time and allowing **** oil to leak out of the transmission. This occurs while the vehicle is in operation, so there is less of a tendency for a puddle to develop when the vehicle is sitting parked. The result to the transmission is a lack of lubrication and damage to some very expensive gears and bearings.
- Engine Oil level: If the oil level is low, chances are the engine uses oil or leaks. Beware of water in the oil (there is probably a cracked block or bad head gasket), or thin, dirty oil with a distinct gasoline smell (this may indicate internal engine problems).
- engine rear main/timing chain cover seals, etc.
- rust in inner rear fender lips, bottom of B pillars and bottom of tailgate (fender lips are rusting due to Ford's flawed spot weld process on the inner (tub) and 1/4 panel that lets moisture & debris in the seam) - may need extensive $ patch or full panel replacements at a body shop.
- radius arm bushing deterioration (I coated em w/pure silicone, from day 1) but replaced at 80k miles w/Daystar polyurethane bushings
- Programmable Speedometer Odometer Module (PSOM in 92-96, aka speedometer/odometer), make sure it works; look for a slight waver in the needle at highway speeds.
- cracked exhaust manifold/Y, etc.
- cab roof/gutter area cracks (mostly appl. to earlier years)
- emissions air check valve & cat. converter (AIR) tubes tend to rust early; as does the AIR tube; buy locally or from pciinc.com
- radiator core supports, lower, it rusts mainly on passenger side, PIA to replace
- body mount deterioration and frame rust
-transfer case operation - electric push button motor/connector is a prob. area; usually a broken travel stop and/or the motor connector is fouled, etc.
● Check Engine Light (CEL) comes on when the electronic engine control system is not working properly. The check engine warning indicator comes on briefly when the ignition switch lock cylinder is turned to ON, and should turn off when the engine starts. If the check engine warning indicator does not come on when the ignition switch lock cylinder is turned to ON or if it comes on while the vehicle is moving, the system is malfunctioning
If the CEL does not light up at all when starting it; then suspect that bulb is burnt-out or loose, socket was damaged by PO or shop, etc. or someone removed it.
● Ask seller if the cruise control, if equipped recall work completed by dealership? Call dealer & have VIN ready to confirm or check status @
https://www.safercar.gov
Use this guide by jowens1126 @
https://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum...ml#post6530073
The 4-wheel anti-lock brake system (4WABS) in 93-96 is self monitoring. When the key is placed in the RUN position, the anti-lock brake electronic control module will perform a preliminary self check on the anti-lock electrical system indicated by a momentary illumination of the amber ABS warning light in the instrument cluster. During vehicle operation, including normal and anti-lock braking, the anti-lock brake electronic control module monitors all electrical anti-lock functions and some hydraulic operations. In most malfunctions of the anti-lock brake system, the amber ABS warning light will be illuminated. However, most malfunctions are recorded as a coded number in the anti-lock brake electronic control module memory and assist in pinpointing the component needing service.
Our module blew it's microprocessors a few years ago and two yard modules were bad. No returns so I'm running without 4WABS, just like the old days.
Cash is King!!!
"Cashier’s checks can be forged, money orders can be forged, and personal/business checks can be forged. Cash can also be, but it’s harder to make believable and easier to test. Take a powerful magnet with you. Yes a magnet. You see, on top of ID strips and watermarks, the ink the federal reserve uses has iron in it, therefore it will be attracted to a powerful magnet." by Froggmann
Banks cash fakes, then hold you responsible. ..
As craigslist advises, "Do not extend payment to anyone you have not met in person.
Beware offers involving shipping - deal with locals you can meet in person.
Never wire funds (e.g. Western Union) - anyone who asks you to is a scammer.
Sometimes a seller may "promise" to return a certain amount of money during negotiations..
Transactions are between users only, no third party provides a "guarantee".
Never give out financial info (bank account, social security #, paypal account, etc).
A summary of questions to ask the seller:
"* Do you have the maintenance records?
* Do you have the title in hand and is there a lien on the Bronco?
* How do I get the title?
* Has the vehicle been in any accidents?
* Are there any document or preparation fees?
& if these may bother you; *Did this car belong to a smoker? *Was this car used by pet owners?"
* Courtesy of ebay
General Inspection Checklist by
https://vincheck.info/check/inspection-checklist.php with some changes* by me.
"Exterior:
Windshield free of cracks
Body panel colors match
Magnet adheres to all steel body panels *except for rear fiberglass roof
Fresh paint job (if yes, it could be to conceal rust)
Seams where the *tailgate and hood close are properly aligned
Seams where doors and fenders meet are properly aligned
Free of body scratches
Free of body dents
Windshields wipers and blades fully functional
Headlights and directional lights intact and fully functional
Tires:
Tires are all of the same size
Tires are of free of any cuts, bubbles or cracks
Tread worn evenly (uneven wear indicates alignment and suspension problems)
Tire jack handle and lug wrench are in Bronco on passenger side fender liner and fully functional
Spare tire inflated
Engine:
Free of fluid or oil leaks
Oil filler neck not coated with thick, black deposits
Battery terminals free of corrosion
Oil dip stick free of dark, black oil
Free of odors while engine is running
Exhaust pipe emissions are neither blue (indicates engine burns oil) or black (indicate excessive oil consumption)
Suspension:
When bouncing the vehicle's corners, no creaking noises are made
All corners respond the same when bouncing
Interior:
Seats free of cracks
All doors open and close freely
Tailgate opens and closes freely
Lacks a heavy scent of air freshener (may indicate something is being concealed)
All gauges work
No dashboard warning lights remain illuminated
Radio works
Heater works
Air conditioner works
Windshield wipers work
Windshield wiper fluid dispenses properly
All seats equipped with functional seat belts
All seats adjust properly
Power windows operate properly
Car alarm works (if applicable)
*Tailgate and driver-side door lock and unlock with key
Hazard lights function properly
Headlights, including brights, work properly
Frame
Chassis is neither bent nor cracked
*No signs of crumpling or straightening espeically in front "accordion section (crumple zone)
E4OD Automatic Transmission
Transmission neither slips nor delays when driving
Manual or Standard Transmission
Each gear shifts smoothly
No grinding noises when in reverse
Brakes
Vehicle steers straight and does not pull to one side when applying brakes
Parking brake engages and disengages freely
No grinding noises when applying
Wheels do not lock when applying antilock brakes
Steering
Vehicle does not drift to one side without prodding
Vehicle is stable; no shaking or vibrating
No resistance in the steering wheel when turning
No clicking or clunking when turning
Miscellaneous:
Owner's manual located in the glove compartment?
Instructions included for any accessories?
If you need opinions on a 96, post pics here.
Good hunting Dev!
Al
