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Shift indicator stuck off center of neutral

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Im new here so sorry if this has been discussed but I didnt see it. My gear shifter has been stuck on neutral (off center of neutral) since getting the truck. My 4x4 works fine however when attempting to get into 4 low it just flashes. I have electronic shift for my 4x4, but manual locking hubs. I've made sure my hubs are locked prior to shifting. Could the shift indicator not being full on neutral or working at all be a possible reason for 4 low not engaging? Thanks!

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Yo malloy56,


I believe you have a Borg Warner 1356.

Usual suspect is the electric shift motor's "travel stops"; 
1356 Electric Shift Motor Troubleshooting & Repair (travel stops) 
Source: by Richard C (Bigric, Money Pit) at Electric 1356 motor fix - Ford Bronco Forum

Can get some poor soul to climb under and rap the motor with a ball peen as you switch to 2WD. CHOCK TIRES, APPLY PARKING BRAKE AND APPLY FORCE TO BRAKE PEDAL; BEST IS TO ALSO PARK AGAINST A CONCRETE WALL

 1356 Electric Shift Troubleshooting & Repair - BEST PROCESS! 
Source: by Dustin S (Dustball, Mellow Yellow, Mr. Laser Boy) at http://web.archive.org/web/20100923194404/http://ylobronc.users.superford.org/documents/electric1356/elec1356.htm

Is #3 indicative of issue of being able to drive in 4x4 & Attempt to shift into 4H from 2H or 4L results in the module clicking and chattering and the system stops in 2H?


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I might not have explained it right as I'm a noobie. my truck switches into 4h just fine. I hear the system click and switch into 4h from 2h no problem. While in neutral I push 4l and it just blinks. On my dash my gear shifter is stuck. It looks like this with the ! representing where the gear indicator has always been stuck.



It has been since I've had it. It has a rebuilt tranny and I think it's a E4OD. I could be totally wrong, and I'll look through all my trucks paperwork to make sure I'm right. 

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Yo Malloy,

OK, no problemo, was on just 1st cup of coffee.😎


1356 Electric Shift Troubleshooting & Repair - BEST PROCESS! 
Source: by Dustin S (Dustball, Mellow Yellow, Mr. Laser Boy) at http://web.archive.org/web/20100923194404/http://ylobronc.users.superford.org/documents/electric1356/elec1356.htm

"If the vehicle won't shift into 4L, check the speed sensor and the transmission interlocks (neutral or clutch in). Also check the 4L switch (C3) to see if the module is getting a signal. Be sure to check for corroded connections.

It may seem strange to say this, but you should ask the owner/operator if this was the first time the vehicle was ever shifted into 4L. Many vehicles are purchased and operated for considerable periods of time before a shift to 4L is made. The problem may be a defective part that was there from the beginning."

"...The speed sensor is important because the vehicle must be stopped for a shift into or out of 4L. The shift module won't make the shift if the vehicle is moving. speed sensor should show 225-275 ohms with the vehicle stopped. Check at the module connection..." Miesk5 Note Ford Part Number is 7f293 speed sensor 

1356 Electric Shift Speed Sensor pics in a 96 
Source: by drinkbrew (Jason) at FSB
1356 Electric Shift Speed Sensor Replacement Information & in an 89; "...took about 45 minutes to remove the yoke, tail housing, and solder/splice/heat shrink the new sensor in place..." 
Source: by kf4amu (Will H, The Beast) at FSB
1356 Electric Shift Speed Sensor Wiring Diagram 
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net


AOD has 14 pan bolts, see pic; P-R-N-(D)-D-1 shifter pattern, note, is actually a (D) - Indicator pic 
by danheit 

 E4OD has 20 pan bolts; P-R-N-D-2-1shifter pattern - Indicator pic in 92-96
Note D is inside a white squircle shape intermediate between a square and a circle, by Chris A 

For the AOD:
"... look  at the pictures by bronco boy @ http://chrisb.users.superford.org/Bronco/Projects/Steering_Column/Steering_Column.html

 and you'll notice once the key cylinder, snap ring and washer are out the "brass drive gear" is still inside "timed" correctly...the 3rd tooth on top counting in from R-L should be directly in the middle of the top key cylinder track, remember the key needs to be in the RUN position and if necessary use a small screw driver to lift and turn the drive gear into the correct timing position....NBD.....lube etc.

When seperating the long ROD from the upper ignition actuator at the top it uses a 3/32 x 3/8" "roll pin" found at any decent hardeware for around $0.33 each if you loose it, mine pinged on the garage floor, it's still lurking out there waiting to be found.....

Taking the Tilt knuckle off is not that hard but you need to remove the "roll pins" on either side and it will come off the PITA is getting it back on squeezing those loaded springs so it fits back on right. I swapped to on Tilt because mine was badly degraded inside..just follow the steps in the link and you'll get it back togther, don't forget to lubricate the actuator track so it slides in there easily.

The only part not shown in the link is the "lower actuator" which mates with the drive gear on the otherside, it's in it's own little compartment in the metal column collar so you have to remove that and it will slides out from the front, lube that as well but needs to back inside correctly.

Keep in mind that when you turn the key to RUN/START everything needs to "rotate" forward simultaneously without "binding" in a manner of speaking so the long ROD travels/triggers the ignition switch lower down on the column, once you do this repair, you'll never forget How To..."

The lower part of the actuator sometimes breaks off and falls into the column and jams up the shifter.

Our departed friend here, JKossarides wrote, "...My 86 AOD has a simple adjustment procedure where you turn the ignition key to the "RUN" position, pull the column shift lever into the D position and secure it so it won't move, go under the truck drivers side and loosen the column shift shift linkage "bolt" enough so you click the transmission "TAB" all the way back until it stops then 2 clicks forward, tighten bolt, place in park -done. In many cases this procedure will eliminate "starting issues" as opposed to code: 67 AC or NSS issue..." & "...Check the PRNDDL needle when you shift and make sure it lines up on each letter, a quick simple check is to turn the key to "Run" engine off and pull the shifter down to D, have someone hold the column shifter in place so it doesn't move, go underneath the drivers side and losen the "column shifter linkage bolt" on the tranny tab (Point A as shown in the Haynes Manual) just enough so you can click the tranny tab backwards until it stops, then 2 clicks forward and tighten the bolt and put it back in P...............by doing this you can eliminate a potential Neutral Safety Switch issue....

After the adjustment if the needle doesn't line up properly, pull off the black plastic column shroud (screw underneath) and adjust the needle cable which wraps around from underneath the column and has a small 7-8 mm screw on top left side which you can losen and make the cable needle adjustment, it's spring loaded so be careful because there is a very fine little wire loop attached there so don't break it..."



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