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66-96 Ford Broncos - Early & Full Size
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Dear Abby, Ann Landers & Judge Judy

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Were no help!  I've Asked Amy and Jeeves to no avail!  Even Web MD had no answers, is there anyway to get my 1993 Bronco to handle, ride and get the same fuel economy as my 2017 F150?  Asking for a friend.

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The only hope for fuel economy is to rebuild the engine and change your gear ratio. Even then a '17 truck will still beat it. And the issue isn't springs and shocks.

The question is does anybody make a OBS F-sreies quick ratio steering box?

And how the freak does one get rid of the mushy brake pedal?

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Posted (edited)

I'm telling you!  After getting back in it after almost 2 years., I no longer like the seat recline (fixable with a new seat), even with a steering stabilizer, the 33s are all over the road and I feel like a Nascar driver constantly working the steering wheel.  Also the total removal of rear carpet and sound deadening material after installing poly-sway bar bushings and no music makes for a interesting sounding scenario

Edited by RR-Texas

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Yo RR,

Dr Al-be-Sure Suggest a you take an aspirin and see me in the morning.

Until then, I recommend going through this list by Doc Ford in his 1996 Workshop Manual on how I stopped worrying about my old Bronco and fixed it". See http://www.diesel-dave.com/vehic/manual/stj/stjleft.htm for more info.

Vehicle overloaded or unevenly loaded. CORRECT as required.
Improper (mismatched) tires and wheels. INSTALL correct tire and wheel combination. 
Improper tire pressure. ADJUST air pressure in tires.

Loose steering gear mounting.ADJUST to 73-89 Nm (54-66 lb-ft).

Front and rear suspension components loose, worn or exhibit damaged condition. TIGHTEN or REPLACE as necessary. 
"First step is to have someone turn the steering wheel back and forth (with the truck running) while you watch the steering shaft, pitman arm, drag link, tie rod, and tie rod ends. All of these parts should move with one another, so if you see one part moving before the next does, you've got an issue." by BigUgly88EB
Check all the tie rod ends for endplay. With the wheel-rocking trick, start at the pitman arm, there should be no motion between the arm and the drag link, or the drag link to the tie rod, or the tire rod to the steering arms. Replace and align as required..." 
Source: by Carl J 

Raise the vehicle and place safety stands under the I-beam axle beneath the spring.
Have an assistant grasp the lower edge of the tire and move the wheel in and out.
While the wheel is being moved, observe the lower spindle arm and the lower part of the axle jaw. A 0.794mm (1/32-inch) or greater movement between the lower portion of the I-beam and the lower spindle arm indicates that the front suspension lower arm ball joint must be replaced.

To check the front suspension upper ball joints, grasp the upper edge of the tire and move the wheel in and out. A 0.794mm (1/32-inch) or greater movement between the upper spindle arm and the upper portion of the I-beam indicates that the front suspension upper ball joint must be replaced. By Ford

Loose, worn or damaged steering sector shaft arm drag link. TIGHTEN or REPLACE as necessary. 

Loose wheel lug nuts. TIGHTEN to specifications.

Improperly adjusted front wheel bearing. ADJUST to specification.

Steering column intermediate shaft coupling fractured. REPLACE as required.

Incorrect toe setting. SET to specifications. .

Improperly adjusted steering gear.
Pre-load Adjustment, All Bronco & Ford, mid-70s to 00; "...1. Disconnect the pitman arm from the sector shaft using a Pitman Arm Puller (Tool T64P-3590-F). 2. Disconnect the fluid return line at the reservoir and cap the reservoir return line nipple to retain the fluid in the reservoir. 3. Place the end of the return line in a suitable container and turn the steering wheel from stop-to-stop several times to discharge the fluid from the gear. Discard the fluid. 4. Turn the steering wheel to the right stop, then back left 45 degrees. 5. Attach an inch-pound torque wrench to the steering wheel nut and determine the torque required to rotate the shaft slowly approximately one-eighth turn (45) toward center from the initial 45 degree position. Note this first value. 6. Turn the steering gear back to center and determine the torque required to rotate the shaft back and forth across the center position ( 90). Compare the center value to the first value, using the following criteria: * Vehicles with less than 5,000 miles (8046 Km): If total meshload over mechanical center is less than 15 in-lb (1.7 Nm) or greater than 24 in-lb (2.7 Nm), RESET to first value PLUS 11-15 in-lb (1.2-1.7 Nm). 
* Vehicles with more than 5,000 miles (8046 Km), or with new sector shaft: If meshload over mechanical center is NOT 7 in-lb (0.8 Nm) GREATER than the first value, RESET to 10-14 in-lb (1.13-1.6 Nm) GREATER than first value. . If reset is required, loosen the adjuster locknut and turn the sector shaft adjuster screw until the reading is the specified value greater than the torque at 45 degrees from the stop. Hold the sector shaft screw in place, and tighten the locknut. 8. Re-check torque readings and replace the pitman arm and steering wheel hub cover. 9. Connect the fluid return line to the reservoir and fill the reservoir to specification with the specified fluid. Check belt tension & adjust if necessary. Do not pry against the reservoir to obtain proper belt load. Pressure will deform the reservoir and cause it to leak...." 

Steering column misaligned.

Steering column components loose or exhibit excessive play. REPAIR as required.

Scrubbed tires indicate the wheels have incorrect toe. Parts to check are the idler arm, strut rod bushings, tie-rod ends, pitman arm and center link. Cupped tires are symptoms of incorrect camber. Parts that could be worn and ready to replace are the ball joint, coil springs and control-arm bushings. Cupped tires may also be a symptom of frame fatigue. Uneven tire wear suggests that the alignment is loose or parts are worn. Check for loose wheel bearings, loose ball joints and worn bushings. Make sure the wheels are balanced, and inspect the shock absorbers. Variable tire wear indicates the tires are improperly inflated. Overinflated tires have excessive wear in the center; underinflated tires have excessive outer wear. Make sure tires are inflated to the proper pressure. Regularly inspecting the three interrelated systems — braking, steering and suspension — and replacing worn parts help assure safe, trouble-free driving. ..." by MOOG®

Have to go and see an 88 owner with a leaky rear... edit: I meant his 88 has a rear leak

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