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66-96 Ford Broncos - Early & Full Size

Secondary Air Injection (smog) Pump Required?

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Good Afternoon, 

I am finally getting my 93 Eddie Bauer 351W / E4OD put back together. The Air pump is seized up. Where I live, the truck is not subjected to emissions testing. Can I remove the air pump and buy a different serpentine belt to fit, or do I need the air pump for the truck to run right. It is stock, except for a set of headers.



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 If everything else in the engine bay is in good working order then I would fix the stupid smog pump and be happy. If you already have a modify'd engine bay then I wouldn't hesitate to delete the pump. most people choose to run a new belt but if it were me I would buy a delete pulley and keep the stock size belt

btw, I don't know if removing the smog pump causes the little light on the dash to come on or not.

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Following parts are commonly used & available via google searches:
You are looking for Thermactor Plugs, some use 5/8" by 11 by 1" SS bolts while others have welded holes closed.
Stainless Steel Thermactor Smog Plugs the holes in the back of your cylinder heads when removing the exhaust crossover tube. Comes with 2 stainless plugs and Loctite. Hex head makes installation easy when the engine is still in the vehicle.

TAB & TAD  Eliminator Resistor; need one 82 ohm 3 watt Resistor for each item removed, by Ryan M. But company is out of business.

This will prevent the CEL from lighting and a code to be set.

A neat mod by jrichker; "...Put the resistor inside the heat shrink tubing and crimp the connectors on. I would choose the Ford pin connectors since they should plug in the TAB & TAD wiring. That way you haven't modified the wiring so it is easy to re-install the TAB & TAD solenoids if emissions testing comes to your area. 18 gauge crimp on taps..." 

Read more @  

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