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66-96 Ford Broncos - Early & Full Size
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AOD Buzzing in Park when Warm

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Howdy! My AOD for the last few years makes a buzzing sound when I have it in park after it's warmed up to full temp. Fluids are good. When it's stopped in any gear, no sound. Just immediately when I move to Park. It gets louder the warmer it gets but when it's at temp the sound remains consistent.

It sounds like the gear toothed fly wheel would be contacting a small flap of metal. Kinda like putting cards in your spokes of a bicycle, just metal sounding and faster. I think it's something relative to how the torque converter separates? from the system but this is where my transmission skills are non existent :)


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Yo entity-unknown,


See http://www.atraonline.com/gears/1997/1997-12/gdec97p36.hthttp://www.atraonline.com/gears/1997/1997-12/gdec97p36.htm


"Tools required: 300-350 pound pressure gauge, clipboard, paper, and pencil...


Preparation: Check oil level. Attach gauge. Record the pressure in all selector positions while the engine is above an idle but under 1200 rpm. With the selector in drive and foot on the brake, step on the gas to about three-quarter throttle and then let off to just above idle. Pressure should increase and decrease as though the gauge was connected to the gas pedal. Pressure must always return to 50-92 psi at just above idle. (In drive range pressure should not exceed the listed repair manual pressure by more than 30 psi. If it does, forget the noise and fix the overpressure problem.)

Road test: Skipping this part almost guarantees that it will come back. Making and recording a road test is what gets you in present time and connected to the trans. Always make a road test before you tear into the job, making a record of when and how it shifts, especially the downshifts and lockup.

There are two types of noises at a standstill.

Mechanical: The needle on the gauge is steady. The noise changes with engine speed but does not go away. If the needle on the gauge vibrates with noise, it is not a mechanical noise.

Hydraulic: The needle on the gauge is busy. The needle will flutter or move with the same frequency as the noise. If the gauge is steady, it is not a hydraulic noise.


Restricted filter. Bad filter gasket. Valve body warp. Cause two: Converter relief valve bouncing. Partial solution: Install long relief valve part number E2FZ-7E217A. If valve body has long stem relief valve,..."



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Pretty sure the filter is good but the mention from your link about the needle bearing at the drum being bad sounds possible. It's relative to the area and I don't think it's teeth, just kinda like that sound but not really. 
Def thanks as always Mike! 

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