TOO MANY NOISES

Hello everyone, my name says enough. I need help. So the first issue is. I had replaced my Serpentine belt after a part of it had ripped itself apart, while I replaced some broken vacuum lines. Good news is the check engine went away but I thought I had maybe dropped some oil, I was using it to **** some of the connections, somewhere which caused the chirping noise. So today I went and replaced and thought I had cleaned the pulleys good enough. I drove the bronco to the parts store after switching the belt and the noise had gone away. After I had come home and started to work on my brakes, which is the second topic, and finished up. Turned on the Bronco and sure enough the noise has come back. I took the belt off again and spun some of the pulleys and I noticed the alternator makes a grinding noise at a certain point in the revolution. Could that be the cause of the Chirp, Chirp, Chirp and so on noise? The second issue is with the brakes. only when I push lightly on them the make a squeaking noise but if I push hard it goes away. as I was putting the tire back on and had tightened up the passenger side, I noticed that the tire moves up and down. Don't have a dimension of play but it was enough for me to notice. The driver side does not do it at all. I did some research and had come to the conclusion that it could be the wheel bearing. Is that correct or could it be something else. If it is not to much to ask can someone please give me a list of possibilities as to what each problem could be. I would rather fix it myself then go to a mechanic. For experience purposes. I would like to learn enough about cars to teach my boy a little something.

92 Ford Bronco

351 Windsor

Eddie Bauer edition.

Thanks for helping I really need it

Yo,

Welcome!

For serpentine belt chirps, Ford advises to check power steering pump pulley for wobble.

"A chirping noise from the accessory drive belt that is more noticeable at idle than at higher speeds may be caused by a power steering pump pulley (3A733) that is out of alignment.

The misaligned power steering pulley causes the accessory drive belt to chirp as the belt enters it on an angle on 4.9L engines, or after it leaves the power steering pump pulley, travels over the water pump pulley (8509) and enters into the crankshaft pulley (6312) on an angle on 5.0L and 5.8L engines. Verify that the chirping noise is coming from the entrance to one of these two pulleys by listening through a length of rubber hose or another stethoscope-like device.

If the chirp has been isolated to one of these pulleys, then correct this condition by aligning the power steering pump pulley using the following service procedure.

NOTE: Accessory drive belt chirp not corrected by this procedure may be caused by a damaged pulley or bent accessory shafts. Steady pulsation of the drive belt tensioner (6B209) indicates this condition. Observe each pulley in the system for runout.

1.  CAUTION: Do not sand the edges of the drive belt or apply lubricants or dressings. These are only temporary fixes and may damage belt.
   
   Clean the accessory drive belt (8620) with mild soap and water to wash away oil or other contaminants.
   

1. On some models, it may be necessary to remove the fan shroud (8146) to allow for proper installation and operation of the power steering pulley puller and installer tools.
   

1. Using Steering Pump Pulley Remover T69L-10300-B and Steering Pump Pulley Replacer T65P-3A733-C set the power steering pump pulley hub to within ±.010 inch of being flush with the end of the power steering pump shaft.
   

1.  CAUTION: Damaged accessory drive belts should be replaced before proceeding to Step 4. Only use a closed-end wrench to lift the drive belt tensioner to avoid possible damage. A wedged screwdriver will crack the pulley or the housing.
   
   Operate the engine (6007) at idle for five (5) minutes to see if chirping noise has been corrected. If not, proceed to Step 5.
   

1. Select a direction and move the power steering pump pulley at .50mm (.020 inch) increments in that direction. After each move (increment), remove the tool and operate the engine for five (5) minutes. If chirp fades, alignment is being achieved; if chirp increases, reverse the alignment direction. Continue moving the pulley until the noise is eliminated.
   

1. Reinstall the fan shroud."
   

In 96 Bronco Workshop Manual, partial @ http://www.diesel-dave.com/vehic/manual/stj/stjleft.htm

Section 03-05: Drive Belts, Accessory
1996 F-Series, Bronco Workshop Manual
ADJUSTMENTS
 ●

96 is same as most earlier years especially 92-96, except for:
92 through 95 uses the Electronic Engine Control, version Four (EEC-IV, aka On Board Diagnostics (OBD-I)) engine management computer.
96 uses the OBD-II (EEC-V) engine management computer;
4WABS (93-96);
RABS (87-92);
Air Bag (94-96);
3 ***** Automatic Locking Hubs (Built from May 95 through 96); Spark Plug Wire Routing & Firing Order (The firing order for 1987-1993 5.0Ls is 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8. The firing order for 1994- 96 5.0Ls & all 5.8Ls is 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8.);
R134a in 94-96;
2-piece Spindle Rolling Diaphragm Seal (RDS) used on 5/95 to 96 Broncos & F Series 1/2-ton 4WD;

Speed density EFI uses a Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor (MAP), a Throttle Position Sensor (TPS), an Air Intake Temperature Sender (ACT) that gives the engine certain volumetric efficiencies over it's RPM range. Speed density EFI also uses what is called bank fire injection. 4 injectors are fired at one time on each side of the engine (only 2 wires for firing injectors from EEC-IV).
Mass Air Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI), aka Sequential Electronic Fuel Injection (SEFI) in 95 5.8 California models and in all 96s. Mass Air directly reads the mass of air (or number of molecules of air). By doing this, it can detect the changes in the volume of air, in addition to it's pressure & temperature. Mass air has one separate wire for each injector & fires them twice for every power stroke of the engine. This makes the injector timing more accurate & will help emissions along with power.
96 5.8 do not have the Air Injection (AIR), Secondary Air Injection; Pump (Smog Pump), Thermactor Air Bypass (TAB) & Thermactor Air Diverter (TAD) Solenoids; Diverter, Check & Bypass Valves, Cross-Over Tube, etc. But 96 5.0 does have the system.
Only 95 5.8L California models & all 96 have the Differential Pressure Feedback (DPFE) Sensor instead of EGR Valve Position (EVP) Sensor. 

The 96, Vapor Management Valve (VMV) replaces the canister purge valve (CanP valve) used in EEC IV. But the 96 manual still shows CanP valve probably because it was a late addition to the 96 production line.
The Speed Control Deactivation Switch (SCDS) in a 93 Bronco is located on the driver side frame rail, but in 94 through 96 it is on the master cylinder.
Still researching other differences.
•
96 Bronco Owners Guide by Hiller Ford
http://www.hillerfor...rd/96bronco.pdf
•
96 Bronco Dealer Brochure by Ford via me at
http://www.supermoto...ry/media/877777
•
Wiring Diagrams (not all systems shown) in 86-current and Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs) for 80 to Current
http://www.revbase.com/BBBMOTOR/
•
Also, register to see any Ford dealer maintenance/repairs done @ any dealership nation-wide @!http://owner.ford.com
Slight lag.

GL!

Al

Yo,

Had to enter previous reply because t6ge screen refreshed twice and I had to enter all the info again.

Tire, check wheel bearing.

See 

1980 - 95 Bronco Haynes Manual @ https://app.box.com/s/ikdlhip93vfmyjsd4m69qlhsr7vtjdv5
And see Dana 44 Wheel & Spindle Seals Replacement in a 90 (part of his ball joint installation) 

Source: by Iolaus (Jeff J)  nite tgat 96 has diff locking hubs than 96.

Wheel Bearing Locknut Torque Settings for 80-96 MANUAL HUBS, NOT Factory Auto Hubs; Ford Pickups and Bronco; "...Using a lockout spanner (Ford # T59T-1197-B or equivalent) and a torque wrench, tighten the inner bearing adjusting nut to 50 foot pounds while rotating the wheel back and forth and seating the bearing. Back off the adjusting nut approximately 45 degrees. Assemble the lock washer by turning the inner lockout to align the pin with the nearest hole in the lock washer. To lock it, install the outer lock nut and tighten it to 150 foot pounds. Grab the top of the tire with one hand and the bottom of the tire with the other. Move the tire in and out on the spindle. End play should be less than .006 – inch.).." Thanks to 90beater (Topher, Chris)!!!! By me

For auto locking hub see my site @ http://schwimserver5.com/index.php?index=104

Turned on the Bronco and sure enough the noise has come back. I took the belt off again and spun some of the pulleys and I noticed the alternator makes a grinding noise at a certain point in the revolution. Could that be the cause of the Chirp, Chirp, Chirp and so on noise?

Click to expand...

Possibly, Earlyer this year I had to replace my belt tensioner and the bearing inside of the idler pulley because that was causing my chirping noises. Chirping can be either belt slip or bad bearings.

I noticed that the tire moves up and down. Don't have a dimension of play but it was enough for me to notice. The driver side does not do it at all. I did some research and had come to the conclusion that it could be the wheel bearing. Is that correct or could it be something else.

Click to expand...

correct. wheel bearing or ball joints. recheck all joints before replacing bearings just to be sure.

The second issue is with the brakes. only when I push lightly on them the make a squeaking noise but if I push hard it goes away.

Click to expand...

This issue can be caused by high mileage brake pads and/or dirty pads or shoes.

Thanks for the replies, I am truly grateful for the help.

Every single belt I ever put on my Bronco squeaked and I tried a variety. Also tried different soaps such as bar and dish from backyard mechanic suggestions and even tried that belt dressing stuff but they all made it significantly worse especially when it was cold out. I finally bought a Gator Belt which apparently you can only find at "GM Stores"? whatever that means. I think I was told NAPA is the place to go and might just be where I bought them.
In 15 years since I bought it, it has never squeaked once nor has the belt slack changed since I marked the tensioner after installing it years ago.  I bought a 2nd one and keep it in the map pocket for the back seat just in case