No Juice at ignition switch

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B-Co Kid

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87 B-co, withou eec from factory, c-6 tran.

Beginning of the week I backed into the garage and the engine died by itself.  I tried to turn the ignition switch and nothing happened.  The battery light and engine light on the dash are not illuminated when putting the switch into acc.  Radio does not come on.  I do have dome lights and the headlights work when I pull them on. 

Today, I attempted to start the truck, and the battery light and engine light were illuminated with the switch in acc; however, when i attempted to turn the engine over, everything blanked out again; no engine light, no battery light, nothing.  I jumpered at the starter relay, and that turns the engine over.  I checked voltage at the battery, and it indicated 12.5V.  Not sure exactly were to start looking.. hoping not in the steering column.  Please advise.

 

miesk5

96 Bronco 5.0
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Yo b,

Does ignition Key have the usual spring back from Start to Run?
The ignition switch, mounted inside column's shroud is where the spring-back is provided, but the actuator(s) is often damaged. Ensure switch is securely mounted first.



If it doesn't crank, , Sixlitre what a mechanic did for his no crank with key issue; "...He turned the key on to crank (nothing happened), reached low on the column, just below the dash, and shoved his pick tool into the column and pulled down. That thing not only rolled over but it started...SO IN CONCLUSION REACH UNDER YOUR DASH AND PULL DOWN ON THAT COLUMN SWITCH ACTUATOR ROD (with the key on) AND SHE'LL LIKELY START RIGHT UP. He told me yes the switches die but they can also "walk" up the column and and get so loose the rod coming down from the key will not actuate the column switch (it's also a sign the $11 switch is about to die). He also recommended I change that *** metal actuator rod assembly (Ford # E9TZ*3E715*B, $16.32 CDN). This took him half an hour and if I'd been able to do it I estimate even after my install lesson would have taken me most of the day..." 
Source: by Sixlitre (Malcolm H, Eddie Bauer) . 

NOTE: Do not apply lubricant to the inside of the ignition switch.
Test the ignition system mechanical operation by rotating the ignition switch lock cylinder through all positions of the ignition switch. The movement should feel smooth with no sticking or binding. The ignition key should return from the START position back to the ON position without assistance (spring return). If sticking or binding is encountered, check for the following:
burrs on the ignition switch lock cylinder
binding ignition switch lock cylinder
shroud rubbing against ignition switch lock cylinder
burrs or foreign material around the rack-and-pinion actuator in the housing of the ignition switch lock cylinder
insufficient **** on actuator
binding ignition switch.



See 87'-91 Ignition key cylinder & switch instsllation info & troubleshooting guide by Broncobill
...
Ignition Actuator & Lock Cylinder Replacement 85 to 91 by Chris B
 
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B-Co Kid

B-Co Kid

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The switch does not have a spring back from start to run, but I figured that was normal, given the age of my rig.  I will try what you suggested as an initial test and go from there.   Any other feedback is greatly appreciated.

 

miesk5

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Yo,

Ok.  Easiest steps first, then hopefully you won't need to check the actuator ESPECIALLY IF YOU HAVE TILT STEERING.

 
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B-Co Kid

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I don't see an actuator rod, or any kind of rod, to pull down on, just the column.  I tried pulling down on the column; no luck

 
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B-Co Kid

B-Co Kid

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Is there a way to do an electrical test to rule out/in the problem is in the steering column?

 

miesk5

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B-Co Kid

B-Co Kid

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So, I wiggled the wiring to the S-terminal on the starter relay...Wah lah..power again!  I will trace S-terminal wires for shorts/loose connections.  Thanks.

 

miesk5

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Yo,

That s terminal wire is red/light blue.  Should have a  push on/pull off connector to that stud.

See if the relay is securely mounted to clean surface of inner fender liner.

Could have issues at Neutral Safety Switch or Ignition Switch.

 

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