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89broncodude

Cant adjust my timing

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Oh, well that ain't gunna work now will it <_<

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Yo,

While waiting for the new vacuum tank, if you have vacuum tees, hook them up and see how it starts and idles.

Hopefully that pos rotor isn't Motorcraft.  I firmly believe, always, all day, in Motorcraft parts.

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On 12/28/2017 at 8:10 AM, miesk5 said:

Yo,

While waiting for the new vacuum tank, if you have vacuum tees, hook them up and see how it starts and idles.

Hopefully that pos rotor isn't Motorcraft.  I firmly believe, always, all day, in Motorcraft parts.

No its duralast. I go to autozone because they have the best rewards program. You actually get points when renting tools too XD

I would love to stick with motorcraft but I'm just broke at the moment :/

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Posted (edited)

Anyone got any advice for removing the torque bolt on the upper intake?

I can fit in and everything  I just can't get the sob to budge. I've got it soaking in pb blaster and wd 40 atm. I'm worried I'm going to strip it if I keeping trying

Edited by 89broncodude

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Yo

I assume you meant Torx head bolt,

Removal, Upper Intake in an 89 5.0 
Source: by Waltman

excerpts;

This is the part of removing the plenum which is a hastle. You need a torx bit and a 1/4" drive wrench to remove this, because it is such a tight fit. 

change-oil-pan-gasket-and-valve-cover-ga
This is where the torx bit and extansion goes
change-oil-pan-gasket-and-valve-cover-ga
change-oil-pan-gasket-and-valve-cover-ga

change-oil-pan-gasket-and-valve-cover-ga
there was a groung wire secured to one of the studs at the rear of the plenum. 

Also, don't forget to disconnect the PCV valve on the passenger side rear of the plenum

change-oil-pan-gasket-and-valve-cover-ga
with the six bolts removed, I am able to lift and remove the plenum. Once I remove the coil which is secured by 2 bolts at the intake manifold and one bolt at the bracket. The coil is attached to those relay doohickys and come off as a unit. I can work on both valve covers.

 

and

 Removal, Upper Intake Tip & Tool in an 86 5.0; "...This is the Torx T-40 you're going to need to get that pesky inner center screw out with to remove the EFI's upper intake. Trouble is you'll never get that 3/8" drive socket between the runners, with the space the way it is. I just drift the center part of the T-40 out. It happens to be 1/4" hex. Now it's seperated from it's 3/8" host housing. I use contact cement to glue the T-40 bit into a 1/4" drive 1/4" sized socket and then work with several 1/4" rachet extensions, which pass through the intake runners no trouble at all..." 

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This is the Torx T-40 you're going to need to get that pesky inner center screw out with to remove the EFI's upper intake. Trouble is you'll never get that 3/8" drive socket between the runners, with the space the way it is. 
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I just drift the center part of the T-40 out. It happens to be 1/4" hex. 
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Now it's seperated from it's 3/8" host housing 
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I use contact cement to glue the T-40 bit into a 1/4" drive 1/4" sized socket and then work with several 1/4" rachet extensions, which pass through the intake runners no trouble at all. 


Source: by Sixlitre (Malcolm H, Eddie Bauer) at SuperMotors.net

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I ended up getting it out. There was a bunch of gunk in the head so I just hammered the t40 bit on it a little and it came out easy. 

But unfortunately I had a dumbass moment.... I was just getting ready to put everything back together when I decided to make sure my FPR was on tight enough.Then I dropped my damn Alan wrench down one of the runners in the intake :((

Now I've got to take my freaking lower intake out. I'm thinking about  just changing out the fuel rail and injectors since I'm going to have to pull it off anyway.

Looks like it's gonna be a few more days before I get it running again.

Do you guys recommend cleaning out the fuel rail/bar or getting a new one?

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After looking at the cost of new injectors I have changed my mind lol. Do you guys have any recommendations for which company I should go with for a rebuild kit?

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Yo,

BOSCH REBUILD KITS ARE USED by many.

Injector Color & Flow Rate Number Guide & pics; Bronco is Orange @ 19 Lb/Hr 

ford-injector-guide.jpg Ford Fuel Injector Guide
ford-injector-guide.jpg | Hits: 1080 | Posted on: 1/14/10 | View original size (44.08 KB)

Ford Fuel Injector Guide  by SeattleFSB (Seattle FSB) 

Pintle Removal; "...I wasn't able to get the pintle caps off this way. I used a razor and put a small slice in the caps and then pulled them off with a small pair of needle-nose pliers..."

Test; "...With eveything connected normally & the key in RUN, pierce the OTHER wire (not the Red one) on any ONE injector & tap it BRIEFLY to ground. Do you hear half the injectors click open & then closed? Put a finger on each one to feel which ones are working. If some of them don't open, repeat the test, holding the ground SLIGHTLY longer each time, but never more than 3 sec continuously...Repeat this for the 2nd bank of injectors (just one with a different color wire)..."

See http://www.fuelinjectedford.com/page82.html

Fuel Rail plenum, lower intake manifold, etc. Removal & Cleaning Info in a 90 5.0 @:
Source: by RFR (Mark B)

89-96 5.0 Fuel Rail Bolts are  1/4-20 &  a bit more than 3/4" long.

Dealer Motorcraft Fuel Injector Cleaning System Service Tips TSB 94-8-9 for 87-91 Bronco, Aerostar, Econoline, F Series, Ranger, F 47 & F 53; 91 Explorer and many others @ 

http://www.performanceprobe.com:80/misc/tsb.php?article=94-08-09

Trivia for dealer service department 

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So I removed the Alan wrench and changed out my lower intake gasket. It took awhile because the 2 front bolts on the lower intake busted. It looked like whoever worked on this before me filled the the threading located in the heads with some sort of silicone/jb weld. Had to drill and tap. So I got everything put back together and fired her up. 

Immediately smelled gas and found the disconnect line leading to the rail (under the FPR) was leaking a copious amount of gasoline. It's snapped in and secure. It looks like the leak is coming from the back of the stupid disconnect connector thing. I'm about to get a ride to autozone to get some hose clamps and I'll see if that will work for the time being. 

Any idea on how to replace the bugger? The fuel line WILL NOT come off the connecter/thing on the back. Almost feels like there is a spring or something holding the fuel line on....

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yo,

read this



change-oil-pan-gasket-and-valve-cover-ga
to make removal of the wires going to the injectors and all the sensors and such easier, I needed to disconnect the fuel lines using this tool to unlock the connection 

change-oil-pan-gasket-and-valve-cover-ga
my finger is pointing in the direction the tool has to go in order to unlock the connection and there is another, larger connection to the left of this one

change-oil-pan-gasket-and-valve-cover-ga

If I show the wrong location, ask the AZ person for the correct tool.

Quick-Disconnect Fittings Overview & Diagrams;

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Fittings : i don't know what is in your 89, so look through this info:
"I prefer the small scissor (5/16" & 3/8"). The large scissor is for the fuel rail fittings, and some A/C quick-connects. Older trucks use a duckbill plastic clip to retain the fittings, so only a flathead screwdriver is needed. "

 

Edited by miesk5

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Sorry about the delay. It's been Murphys law working on this truck. 

What I didn't realize in my last post is that there was a nylon fuel line inside of the rubber "fuel line". I got that all patched up and no more leaks.

Truck is still running like shit though. Managed to get the "spark knock" to disappear but advancing the timing to all ost 30 degrees (it's the only way to keep it running) I've also still got a flucuating idle issue.

I just got done reading into one of the vacuum leak troubleshooting guides you linked and I think I have figured out my problem.

My throttlebody is sucking a huge amount of air in idle!  From my understanding the plates shouldn't be letting air through , the IAC should be the only thing getting air right? When I cover the bores the engine stars to slow down and sputter. Maybe I ruined that Teflon coating when I cleaned it? 

I'll take it apart tommorow and see if I can see what's going on with the plates.

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Yo,

I understand.  My much better half was hospitalized for a week and I was mindless. 

Right!  When Starting:
•The engine requires an unrestricted amount of air to start, so EEC opens the IAC 100%. 

IDLE:
•As soon as the engine RPM self sustains and begins to stabilize we now need air to Idle. Air is allowed in from in front of the closed throttle body, and bypasses the throttle body plate. The air is then released into the open intake track flowing directly to the cylinders. The whole idea behind this is simply a way for the computer to give air to the engine without needing a driver. The IAC is not opened like door half way, its either open or closed completely. The EEC sends many pulses per second to flutter the IAC open and closed. It flutters so fast that you should notice any RPM fluctuation with a functional IAC. This fluttering is called duty cycle, when it's calculated a percentage of on time. So when the IAC is off it is at 0%, when it is fully open it is at 100%, and any RPM in-between.

read more if needed at http://web.archive.org/web/20101201013829/http://fordfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=39

Cleaning Procedures as Shown in Idle Air Control (IAC) Sludge; Poor Idle TSB 91-25-07 for 85-92 Bronco & F Series & many others; "...Hard cold starts, hesitation and stalls on initial start-up or during idle or decel may be caused by sludge in the throttle body and/or idle by-pass valve. Sludge deposits or oil film on the throttle body bore and plate or the idle air by-pass valve may cause one or more of the following conditions. Hard Cold Start, Stall On Initial Start-Up, Stall During Idle, Stall During Decel, Rough Idle, Rolling Idle, Hesitation During Acceleration. A new idle air by-pass service kit (F2PZ-9F939-A) [miesk5 note, see * below] is now available for service use to correct sludge contamination concerns of the throttle bore and plate only. It eliminates the need to clean the majority of past model throttle body applications. Cleaning is not required on sludge tolerant throttle body designs released for 1991 and newer model years..." by Ford

* see how Nelbur trimmed his IAC gasket @ 

 

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On 1/3/2018 at 4:45 PM, 89broncodude said:

Anyone got any advice for removing the torque bolt on the upper intake?

I can fit in and everything  I just can't get the sob to budge. I've got it soaking in pb blaster and wd 40 atm. I'm worried I'm going to strip it if I keeping trying

i was able to find a 'low profile' set of 1/4 and 3/8 drive sockets from oreallys that dealt with the torx bolt on those 5.0/5.8 upper plenums... pretty sure that was a day where i went back to the auto parts store twice. super annoying. the oreally part number for the low pro sockets was Part # GM8387 Line code: PTT. worked great for me.

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Ok, pretty sure the TB is good and IAC is good.(cleaned it out for good measure)

I sprayed B-12 almost everywhere under the hood and could not find any vacuum leaks.

For now I'm going back to the only code I pulled which was #34.

Voltage checks out excellent on EVP and  Vacuum regulator.  So far I've replaced the egr valve,vacuum regulator,evp,egr tube,vacuum lines, and the vacuum resivour...

The only possible thing I can think of is that maybe the EVP and the egr valve arnt fitting and the little pin in the EVP isn't hitting the one in the EGR Valve. I purchased the duralast egr valve at autozone and for some reason the employee was being difficult and said they did not sell an EVP. So I went to Napa and bought a BWD brand EVP and was still pulling code 34...

Do you  think maybe there is a brand difference here that's preventing the EVP from making contact with the EGR?I seem to remember reading on one of the countless egr threads that brand difference can be an issue.... I've recently found out that they DO  sell a Duralast EVP at autozone so I'm going to order one today. ...

Edited by 89broncodude

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On 1/26/2018 at 9:43 AM, ShadetreeSeattle said:

i was able to find a 'low profile' set of 1/4 and 3/8 drive sockets from oreallys that dealt with the torx bolt on those 5.0/5.8 upper plenums... pretty sure that was a day where i went back to the auto parts store twice. super annoying. the oreally part number for the low pro sockets was Part # GM8387 Line code: PTT. worked great for me.

I appreciate the advice but my redneck duck tape setup seems to have worked lol

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