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66-96 Ford Broncos - Early & Full Size
Rusty shackleford

'71 EB build advice

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I finally got her into a good shop I trust, but money is kinda limited so I'm doing this build in stages and would like some advice on where to start. I've attached a copy of the link to the inspection report. Any advice at all would help.

 

http://2un.me/o7hv

 

Sorry if this post is too unorganized, should I make a post for each individual issue? Here's a short list

 

Was looking at duff steering (tie rod/ drag link) also the aux tank leaked when tilted front end up on flatbed tow truck, leaky valve cover, leaking steering box, leak from transfer case, bad ball joints, etc. should I convert to power steering or is that more of a personal choice? I wanna keep the old feel but also desire moderate off-road climbing capabilities

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The report says '74 cause Their computer software didn't go back to 71

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Hi Rusty.., While in the "bring it up to spec. stages"., do update your info. page so we know where you

are at present.

Rule of thumb, "safty first" soooo., brakes & steering should be at the top of the list. If the aux tank leak

can't be seen while in place.., it's easy to remove for a closer look. Usually it's just a seal that can be

R&R'd while in place. Same for oil leaks.., a nuisance but seals/gaskets usually clear it up.

Ball joints are a chore & it's best to clean/inspect/replace several components that are removed to get to the

ball joints.., like seals, bearings, u-joints, etc. (I did my own & it was actually kinda fun)

 

"Was looking at duff steering (tie rod/ drag link)"

What's on there now..? Many times they can be repaired a lot cheaper.

 

The steering box is rebuildable assuming it's sloppy. Or, re-sealed.

(power steering is the way to go but also expensive)

 

Your post is fine.., seperate the issues out when you're deep into a project like the ball joints, etc.

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Not sure what's on there now, it seems like the previous owner did some heavy duty reinforcement to the suspension, a lot of stuff is welded onto the frame, I think he used it to tow stuff, not sure if that's a good or bad thing, the frame doesn't seem bent, it's got a 3 inch suspension lift with 2" rubber body spacers that are rotting and leaning.

 

How do I check to see what type of steering I have, I believe I have the undesirable y-shape, should replace with duff or is there a better long term heavy duty option, should I also wait to replace the tie rod/drag link, and steering stabilizer in case I wanna switch over to a 4-link susp

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That's why we like you to update your info.  Makes it much easier to help you.

Get the front wheels up & check the steering joints yourself.

(wiggle at ea. joint. have someone move the steering wheel back & forth while you watch ea. joint.)

Slight movement, you can get by for a while.

 

4link is for the serious 4x4'r or "rock crawler"  Likely more than what you need.

 

"I believe I have the undesirable y-shape"

Seems we went over this months ago.  Ya, the "Y" set-up is flawed after a few yrs. of  use.

There's several "heavy duty" tie-rod" systems avail. But again, over-kill for what your plans are

for your rig.

I mentioned B4, Toms (north of you in Oregon) has a 3way adj. set-up at a reasonable price.

Both ends of the tie-rod are adjustable.., AND so is the drag-link. This makes it easy to align

while keeping the steering wheel straight.

 

At this point, you really need to decide what your usage for/with this rig will be. Then make your mods

accordingly.  Lots of 4x4 magazines out there that will help.  Also, the folks at Toms & Wildhorses (Stockton Cal.)

are always willing to help you with those decisions.  Give them a call.

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No such thing as overkill on this rig, I plan on taking this thing all the way, I don't know much about parts and a lot of what I did know I've forgotten from not being constantly active in the hobby, but I can drive and do plan on doing heavy off-roading.

 

My plan is to make this thing as off road capable as I can, eventually going all the way to high 500's in HP and fully reinforced frame and built rear end. With that in mind, id like the parts I buy now to be usable when I reach that monster horsepower stage, don't wanna have i upgrade cause I replaced broken parts with road-use equipment, but as of now I just wanna get it safe and roadworthy and keep it running healthy, but I also don't wanna waste money buying the same part twice

 

FYI this rig will neve See above 50 mph, zero highway use, wanna eventually go aluminum block bored cylinders carbed naturally aspirated 427 and just get raw American muscle through displacement

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Keep in mind there will be moments where my life will depend on the capabilities of this rig, nothing scarier than being on a slope and your steering becoming unresponsive cause of rough terrain

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but I'm still on the fence on where my taste is with this vehicle half of me wants to restore this back to original in and just do an engine swap on a jeep in and turn that thing into the off-road toy

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If I'm gonna switch over to t-style tie rod would I need to change steering box and disc knuckles? Do you know anything about hydrostatic Ackerman steering

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OOPS..., so sorry, "by-me" ...!    Now that I know where you're headed, You're WAY over my head.

----- I can't help you----

 

I've never seen a "mega-horsepower" eng. out on the trail that did anybody any good.

However, I've seen them pulled out of gullys & heard lots of squeals & things "snapping"..!

 

I'll just step aside here & let the "big guns" work with you.

 

All the best Rusty...,

B

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Well if I haven't made it painfully obvious by now, I haven't the slightest clue as to what I'm doing. I feel like an excited dog with blinders on sprinting full speed into a wall, if my philosophy on these old trucks is silly I wouldn't be offended if someone told me, but I am very interested at this stage to explore full hydrostatic steering

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I agree with Bully... If it's going to be used off-road, go with a mild motor upgrade and get low gears. Maybe a NP435 and doubler to keep cost down. I had 500hp in my 74 and it only wanted to spin the tires and get stuck. My 68 is a mildly built 302 with 5:12 gears, 435/205 and it crawls like a tank.

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On ‎4‎/‎30‎/‎2017 at 11:49 PM, Rusty shackleford said:

Not sure what's on there now, it seems like the previous owner did some heavy duty reinforcement to the suspension, a lot of stuff is welded onto the frame, I think he used it to tow stuff, not sure if that's a good or bad thing, the frame doesn't seem bent, it's got a 3 inch suspension lift with 2" rubber body spacers that are rotting and leaning.

 

How do I check to see what type of steering I have, I believe I have the undesirable y-shape, should replace with duff or is there a better long term heavy duty option, should I also wait to replace the tie rod/drag link, and steering stabilizer in case I wanna switch over to a 4-link susp

The 74' didn't have the "Y" style steering set up from the factory. If you have front disc brakes on your truck you may have the knuckles from a 76-77' and they switched over to the same steering set up used for those same year Broncos. They did this because they didn't what to buy custom tie rods. The mounting distance is different from the drum knuckles on the D44 and the disc Knuckles. I used the Knuckles from a F150 in my disc brake set up. This allows me to run the stock steering from drum knuckles to the new ones with some adapters due to larger tie rod mounting holes.

I know Wild horses makes a T style to fit the Y style size length, or you can go with a Heim joint steering.

You also mentioned power steering. The 74' I stripped down had power steering already which is now on my 66'. If you don't have it I think it is a must for a trail rig.

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