1986 rear defroster

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cowboyup351

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Ok, so thanks to you guys I tackled my rear windows up and down interior switch a couple of days ago and won that battle.  My Bronco now has a brand new pair of 14 ga wires that run from the interior t/g switch to the tailgate.

Now, onto my next dilemma.  I want to fix the rear defroster.  And I believe the wiring, again, is my culprit.  This leads to my question...

When I replace the BR/LB wire that runs from the timing circuit to the Rear Window Defrost Grid, it requires a 16 ga fusible link.  Does it matter the location where that fusible link gets placed in the new wiring?  Should it be near the timing circuit, near the rear window, or on the frame rail under the Bronco?

Thank you all in advance for your help!

This forum is great!

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1986 Window Electrical Diagram attached.

Window.pdf

 
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C

cowboyup351

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Yo Miesk5,

I'm confused...  Fuse Link C, according to Gary's Garage manual, goes to body marker lamps.  According to All Data, the rear window defroster is actually Fuse Link U - 16 ga orange (wire 186) .  Am I reading the schematic wrong?

Screenshot (45).png

 

miesk5

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Yo,

Yes, I made an error when looking at the diagram in sideways view, it is fuse U to the grid

5062877_orig.jpg

 
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cowboyup351

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Looks as though this fuse link U is located behind the right headlight, near the starter solenoid in this diagram.  Same location for a Bronco, I assume?

 

Seabronc

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When I replace the BR/LB wire that runs from the timing circuit to the Rear Window Defrost Grid, it requires a 16 ga fusible link.  Does it matter the location where that fusible link gets placed in the new wiring?  Should it be near the timing circuit, near the rear window, or on the frame rail under the Bronco?
It is difficult to find a listing of Ford fusible links vs amperage rating.

So here is what a manufacturer of fusible link wire has to say: http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/fusible-link.shtml

Based on their chart, I would run a 12GA automotive rated wire to replace the old one.  As far as the link placement, I would use an inline fuse placed where you can easily get to it for replacement.  You could play with the fuse size or place an amp meter in series with the circuit to determine what the actual current draw is when the window defroster is in operation and then add maybe 50% for the size of the fuse. I suspect that the current draw would be under 30 amps.   If I was placing the fuse, I would put it down near the existing fuse block.

I replaced the power distribution fusible links in my truck with fuses. http://www.supermotors.net/registry/212/66214

:)>-

PG64.jpg

PG14.jpg

PG15.jpg

 
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cowboyup351

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It is difficult to find a listing of Ford fusible links vs amperage rating.

So here is what a manufacturer of fusible link wire has to say: http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/fusible-link.shtml

Based on their chart, I would run a 12GA automotive rated wire to replace the old one.  As far as the link placement, I would use an inline fuse placed where you can easily get to it for replacement.  You could play with the fuse size or place an amp meter in series with the circuit to determine what the actual current draw is when the window defroster is in operation and then add maybe 50% for the size of the fuse. I suspect that the current draw would be under 30 amps.   If I was placing the fuse, I would put it down near the existing fuse block.

I replaced the power distribution fusible links in my truck with fuses. http://www.supermotors.net/registry/212/66214

:)>-
Thanks Seabronc!  I'll do this when it's not raining.  Much appreciated.

 

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