Yo B,
body mounts;
Replacement Info & Sources; "...replaced mine as part of my restoration project over the last year+ . All I've got to say is that it was a ROYAL PITA. To replace the front ones you need to have them all loose so you can raise the body far enough to put the new mounts and associated hardware in. 5 of the 8 were so rusted inside the tube that I couldn't simply soak them as previously mentioned. I ended up using a carbide saw blade, (one with diamond grit along the edge), for a sawzall to cut the tubes and that took forever because you are cutting bolts that are a number 8 hardness. If you are going to replace any, replace them all. Use the polly mounts. Make sure you get the kit for a Bronco and not a F150. The diagram in the LMC Truck shows the wrong poly mount for position 2. That is the poly mount for a F150. In fact the one that goes in that position, including the associated hardware, is the same as position 3. As far as bolts go, the bolt kit from Bronco grave yard is much too long so just go out and get the ones listed in Meisk5's first response. From the LMC Truck catalog you will need the following hardware http://www.lmctruck....ll.aspx?Page=36 6 of #28, 6 of number 31, 2 of number 18, 6 of number 27, ( I didn't use the other numbers as they are the same part number, what I did list skips the hardware they show for position #2 and gets you the correct part). LMC truck has been notified of the diagram error for position 2, which you can see in the second diagram of Miesk5's original post. The Bronco poly kit from Bronco Graveyard http://broncograveya...=body+mount+kit , number 33090 or 33092 has the correct poly bushings including the radiator support bushings. Do not waste your money on their hardware kit as it has bolts that are way too long (part number 33100). Get the hardware from LMC Truck that I previously listed, with the exception of the rear mounts, I went to LOWES and got # 8's from them. I don't know if LMC has the correct length bolts, because by then I had so many useless bolts, I didn't want to risk getting another useless set ..."
Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forum
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Bracket, for Core Support Mounts; "... agree with the others that you need to replace the rad core support along with the body mount bushings. You may discover after removing those items that the bottom frame mounts for the bushings are also rusted out, exp the hole in the center of them. Those are riveted on but worthy of replacing while you're doing the rest. Although, by the pics of the severe rust, you may have similar issues with the rest of the frame/ body mounts..."
&
Bracket, for Core Support Mounts; "...You should have the ones pictured by Miesk5, with the hex-shaped bottom. These are rubber molded around the metal part, and must be replaced as a unit. THey are near impossible to separate. Also, beware that the frame mounting bracket for these is often wallowed out or rusted thru, and will also need to be replaced if damaged. These are riveted onto the frame, but replacements are bolted on after removing the rivets and old mounts. Finally, the core support may be rusted in the body mount area, and any damage needs to be fixed before installing the new bushings. There may be one or more spacers on top of the bushing, used to align or level the core support. In my experience, it's a PITA to replace these, since they are often rusted out or the bolts are seized up. The inner sleeve is threaded for the bolt, and no amount of pounding will separate the old ones if rusted up. A Sawz-All or cut-off wheel may need to be used to get the old ones out..."
Source: by our late friend, justshootme84 (Randy Z, Casual Mudder) RIP Randy.... at
http://broncozone.com/topic/20641-body-mounts/?gopid=108605&do=findComment&comment=108605
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Parts Break-Out & Locations (& Bolt Sizes) for 94 (other years are similar) w/Nomenclature;
"Check out View Z (lower R). It's not totally accurate because it omits the thick spacer, and there should be another washer between the Nut & the Spacer on top of the core support..."
Locations, Info & pics in a 90 Source: by ChuckVA (Chuck, Da Bronco) @
http://www.supermotors.net/registry/10180/29535
Replacement Tips;
"1. If you can con someone competent into doing it for less than $100,
get him working on it before the drugs wear off.
2. If you must do it yourself, have a good socket set with good ratchets,
extensions, and breaker bars, as well as a ball peen hammer, a blunt
drift (punch), vise grips, pry bars, a jack, 2-4 jack stands, a 6-foot
4x4 post, a hacksaw (Stanley Contractor with bimetalloy blades is the
best), anti-sieze lubricant, and all the Liquid Wrench from your state
and the 3 surrounding.
3. Soak the bolts (especially INSIDE the tubes) with Liquid Wrench
several times over the course of a week before starting.
4. Use the pry bars to lift the body and get the Liquid Wrench spray
tube on top of the top plate to fill the top tube.
5. Back up the nut from below (above on the core support) with vise
grips or wrenches so you don't twist it off the plate.
6. If the bolt won't turn, try vibrating it with the hammer & drift
(only on the head) to loosen the threads and let the Liquid Wrench
get in.
7. Work down one frame rail at a time so the body doesn't shift out
of line.
8. When you finally get a bolt out, rinse it and the hole it came
out of with Liquid Wrench and thread it back in about 5 turns. Put
the drift squarely on top of the head and smack it with the hammer.
After you lose a few fingernails, the tubes will separate and the
bottom section will drop out.
9. BIG TIP ! ! ! Coat the threads with "Anti-Sieze Lubricant" !!!
(I use it on everything.)
10. If the bolt won't turn, or the head strips, or the nut breaks
off, you will have to hacksaw through the tubes. Do it as high as
you can so you can reuse the lower section when you eventually separate
them. If the bolt breaks, you can still separate the tubes with the
drift and get the bolt out later. Don't be afraid to rip the old rubber
out of your way - you won't be reusing it.
11. When you have an entire side free (even if there are mounts that
need to be hacksawed), put the post under the door running front-to-back
along as many body reinforcements as possible. Then use it to lift
the body with the jack - 2 inches should be plenty. Don't go too high
or you'll damage the fuel filler and the fan or shroud. Later models
also have ground straps that may be too short, but they can be pried
off and hammered back on.
12. Remove the old mounts (by hacksawing if necassary) and top sections
and immediately replace them with the new ones. (You should have already
prepared them per mfr. instructions.)
13. Lower the body straight back onto the new mounts and reinstall
the bottom sections and bolts (this is where an assistant is handy).
If you must buy new bolts, get at least grade 5 or class 5.5; grade
8 or class 8.8-10.8 is better.
14. If you have a mechanical clutch linkage (like me), adjust it.
Automatics may have to adjust the shift linkage."
...
Suspension Lift; see my site @
http://schwimserver5.com/index.php?index=739
I have no preference for brand. Others here can offer opinions on them as well as any body lift brands.
...
Body Lift; see my site @
http://schwimserver5.com/index.php?index=352
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Rear Main Seal oil leaks are sometimes improperly diagnosed as transmission pump seal leaks. "The following areas of possible leakage should also be checked to determine if engine oil leakage is causing the problem. Leakage at the valve cover may allow engine oil to flow over the converter housing or seep down between the converter housing and block causing oil to be present in or at the bottom of the converter housing. Oil plug leaks will allow oil to flow down the rear face of the block to the converter housing.
*** Leakage at the crankshaft seal aka rear main, will work back to the flywheel, and then into the converter housing.***
Leak Check Test with Black Light Oil soluble aniline or fluorescent dyes premixed at the rate of 2.5ml (1/2 teaspoon) of dye powder to 0.24L (0.5 pint) of automatic transmission fluid have proven helpful in locating the source of fluid leakage. Such dyes may be used to determine whether an engine fluid or transmission fluid leak is present, or if the fluid in the transmission fluid cooler hose leaks into the engine coolant system. An ultraviolet light must be used to detect the fluorescent dye solution. "
Source: by Ford via miesk5 at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
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Rear Main Seal;
Installation in a 95 5.8
Source: by TRUCKY18 (Bco) at
http://www.supermotors.net/clubs/superford/registry/3749/29261#content
To view narrative, under TRUCKY18s name in upper left, click Select Alternate View; clicK Thumbnails + Captions.
