1982 ford bronco smog pump electrical

Ok I'm new here and I need some help Im looking to find a wiring diagram for the old smog pump bs and the computer wiring It's an 82 ford bronco originally with 351 with smog crap but now has a non smogged 351 pictures are a plus

Yo,

Welcome!

For now, this is what I have collected over the years.

Location Diagram (part of EEC III Testing, Pin-Out, Wiring & Vacuum Diagrams) in an 82; "...Woe was me, when I found out my 82 Ford Bronco was an EEC 3; had searched all over the engine compartment for the infamous "self test connector", only to find NONE..."

http://web.archive.org/web/20101222172609/http://home.comcast.net/~TommySpace/EEC3.html

This includes diagrams for the feedback carburetor.

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Vacuum Diagram Acronyms by our PAL SEABRONC @;

http://broncozone.com/topic/20593-small-vacuum-line/

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Diverter & Bypass Valves, Hoses & Smog Pump Location pic in an 83 351W by SEABRONC

Have to verify this is same for 82 later.

http://www.supermotors.net/vehicles/registry/media/279352

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Air Pump Functional Check

Check and, if necessary, adjust the belt tension. Press at the mid-point of the belt's longest straight run. You should be able to depress the belt about 1/2 in. (13mm) at most.

Run the engine to normal operating temperature and let it idle.

Disconnect the air supply hose from the bypass control valve. If the pump is operating properly, airflow should be felt at the pump outlet. The flow should increase as you increase the engine speed. The pump is not serviceable and should be replaced if it is not functioning properly.

e Air Supply Control Valve is used in the thermactor system, to direct air pump output to the exhaust manifold or downstream to the catalyst system depending upon the engine control strategy.

Start the engine and allow to idle. Disconnect the inlet hose at the valve.

Verify that air flow is being supplied to the inlet by disconnecting the air supply hose at the inlet.

Verify the presence of air flow with the engine at 1500 rpm. Reconnect the air supply hose at the valve inlet.

Disconnect the air supply hoses at outlets "A'' and "B'' as shown in the appropriate illustration.

Remove the vacuum line at the ******.

Accelerate the engine at 1500 rpm. Air flow should be heard and felt at outlet "B'' with little or no air flow at outlet "A''.

With the engine at 1500 rpm, connect a direct vacuum line from any manifold vacuum fitting to the air control valve vacuum ******. Air flow should be heard and felt at outlet "A'' with little or no air flow at outlet "B''.

http://www.chiltonlibrary.com/content/images/8576/images/85764022.gif

Restore all connections. If the desired conditions above are not met, replace the air control valve.

Thermactor Idle Vacuum (TIV) valve vents the vacuum signal to the atmosphere when a preset manifold vacuum or pressure is exceeded. It is used to divert thermactor air flow during extended idle conditions to limit exhaust temperature.

Thermactor Idle Vacuum (TIV) Valve

Thermactor Idle Vacuum (TIV) Valve

Click to Enlarge

Disconnect both vacuum ******* of the TIV valve.

Install a vacuum hose from the manifold vacuum source to the small ****** of the TIV valve. Perform the appropriate test below as determined by the decal on the valve.

http://www.chiltonlibrary.com/content/images/8576/images/85764023.gif

I am sure others will help soon.

GL!

HereinTexas said:

Ok I'm new here and I need some help Im looking to find a wiring diagram for the old smog pump bs and the computer wiring It's an 82 ford bronco originally with 351 with smog crap but now has a non smogged 351 pictures are a plus

Click to expand...

Some pictures of your engine compartment would be a great help.  What is your intent? Do you want to restore some function?

The 82 Air pump did not have electrical wiring, it was vacuum controlled and driven by a fan belt.

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Ok sorry the intent is to get the truck running with as little electrical stuff that is not needed and what is the computer located under the drivers seat used for. It has about 19-22 wires running from it to the engine bay I will try and get pics of it tonight and is there any way to remove the computer

To start this whole mess it had a 351 with blue valve cover and smogged out. I blew that motor up and switched it to a 351 with green valve covers and non smogged but somewhere in between all that I didn't tape off any of the wires because I was only 16 and now that I'm 20 I know better The only wires I know are the alternator wires starter solonoid temp and oil pressure everything else I'm lost on it

Yo,

Ok,

The computer mounted underneath the driver's seat is identified the EEC-III, the engine control computer used by Ford since midyear 1978. Following is by a well known Ford electronic fuel injection specialist and Bronco owner, Ryan:

"I would remove the rest of the EEC-III system,

I would think about removing the EGR as well, they never worked with carburetors."

Google eec III swap

I know there are a few swaps, but my tablet is very slow now.

As Al said, remove the rest of the EEC system and start over.  You will have to find a Duraspark distributor and ignition module with the wiring harness.

 Attached are some diagrams of the start and charge system that goes with what you are trying to build.

Also, I would get a copy of the 1982 Bronco EVTM (Electrical and Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual) if you can find one.  It is the single most helpful document you can get for troubleshooting and understanding the truck.  This one on eBay would be an excellent set to have http://www.ebay.com/itm/1982-Ford-F100-350-Truck-Bronco-Econoline-OEM-Service-Shop-Manual-4-Vol-Set-82-/272199338790?hash=item3f60584b26:g:ttEAAOSwKIpWEr3I&vxp=mtr

If not, at least get this one http://www.ebay.com/itm/1982-FORD-BRONCO-F-100-350-COURIER-ELECTRICAL-VACUUM-SERVICE-MANUAL-WIRING-/361530998545?hash=item542ced3f11:g:ZlQAAOSw5dNWpQYq&vxp=mtr

>-

The above manuals are far superior to the Chilton and Haynes books.  Chilton and Haynes diagrams will give you a migraine, the EVTM only deals with one thing at a time.   The diagrams above are from the 1983 EVTM .

>-   

Ok thanks everyone I currently work nights and o won't be able to get pictures of it til this weekend and the Haynes and chitons are completely useless I ordered the red cover Haynes or chitons not positive though only paid $8 for it I heard it's better than the new books I will give y'all a update this weekend

And also plan on changing the stock intake a 2bbl Carb with a weiand stealth intake with no egr and a 4 barrel Holley 750 had the same setup on my 86 Chevy c20 454 and was never disappointed

HereinTexas said:

Ok thanks everyone I currently work nights and o won't be able to get pictures of it til this weekend and the Haynes and chitons are completely useless I ordered the red cover Haynes or chitons not positive though only paid $8 for it I heard it's better than the new books I will give y'all a update this weekend

Click to expand...

It's far inferior to the books I mentioned above, but every one to his own.   :-"

ok well I'm trying to upload the pictues but im having no luck

Ok so if I'm understand yall right just pull the whole wiring and brainbox and run without it?

There is a total of 25 wires running from the brain box under the seat and the gray box is the ignition module which only two of the connectors connect to the brain box wiring what all do I need to throw out and start fresh I'm sorry kind of dyslexic should I trace the wires down and pull the ones I don't need and just tie them as if they were still plugged in or would it cause more problems I've been stuck on this problem for 4 years I sold it and bought it back and now I remember why I sold it the first time and I haven't seen any forums  about doing the durapasrk swap as one of yall suggested I hope some of the pics I were able to upload help explain my problem 

Yo,

Here is one swap suggested buy our late buddy, Justshootme84...

He wrote, "I have the HEI dizzy on my 460 in the 84 Bronco, and it's very simple to hook up. Here's a detailed install on a Jeep I found recently that should help you out, JSM84"...

http://www.offroaders.com/info/tech-corner/project-cj7/project-cj7-HEI.htm

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Unfortunately, many websites sites that would have good conversion articles are gone now.

And I have no knowledge of the hei swap

Do any of y'all have a wiring schematic for the plug to the eec that's under the seat like a wire layout I'm trying to label it so it get rid of some of the headache

Yo,

Yes, see my first reply...

Here it is..

Location Diagram (part of EEC III Testing, Pin-Out, Wiring & Vacuum Diagrams) in an 82; "...Woe was me, when I found out my 82 Ford Bronco was an EEC 3; had searched all over the engine compartment for the infamous "self test connector", only to find NONE..."

http://web.archive.org/web/20101222172609/http://home.comcast.net/~TommySpace/EEC3.html

This includes diagrams for the feedback carburetor

See EEC-III, FBC Wiring Diagram

http://web.archive.org/web/20140929042244/http://home.comcast.net/~tommyspace/Images/EEC3F.jpg