Yo m,
My Internet is at 1987 speed now, when it decides to open a site...
Are you swapping from auto to manual hubs?
Here is some one info for now..
Replacement w/Mile Marker (6 *****) & tool list in an 86 (no torque specs) by Sixlitre (Malcolm H, Eddie Bauer) at
http://www.supermotors.net/registry/4970/18660
Warn® Standard & Premium Hub Instructions P/N 20990 P/N 9790 & Diagrams for DRIVE ******, MANUAL HUBLOCK, AUTO
http://warn.iwebcat.com/imgVD/WAR/61420C0-pn20990.pdf by Warn®
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Wheel Bearing Locknut Torque Settings for 80-96 MANUAL HUBS, NOT Factory Auto Hubs; Ford Pickups and Bronco; "...Using a lockout spanner (Ford # T59T-1197-B or equivalent) and a torque wrench, tighten the inner bearing adjusting nut to 50 foot pounds while rotating the wheel back and forth and seating the bearing. Back off the adjusting nut approximately 45 degrees. Assemble the lock washer by turning the inner lockout to align the pin with the nearest hole in the lock washer. To lock it, install the outer lock nut and tighten it to 150 foot pounds. Grab the top of the tire with one hand and the bottom of the tire with the other. Move the tire in and out on the spindle. End play should be less than .006 – inch.).." Thanks to 90beater (Topher, Chris)!!!! by miesk5
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5 ***** Automatic Locking Hub Swap to Warn® & Bearing Replacement w/ Bearing Locknut Torque Settings in a 90; and, Wheel Bearing Locknut Torque Settings for 80-96 MANUAL HUBS, NOT Factory Auto Hubs; Ford Pickups and Bronco; "...Using a lockout spanner (ford # T59T-1197-B or equivalent ) and a torque wrench, tighten the inner bearing adjusting nut to 50 foot pounds while rotating the wheel back and forth and seating the bearing. Back off the adjusting nut approximately 45 degrees. Assemble the lock washer by turning the inner lockout to align the pin with the nearest hole in the lock washer. To lock it, install the outer lock nut and tighten it to 150 foot pounds. Grab the top of the tire with one hand and the bottom of the tire with the other. Move the tire in and out on the spindle. End play should be less than .006 – inch.).." by 90beater (Topher, Chris) at
http://bronco.tophersworld.com/writeup_hubs.htm
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Operational Test; "...To CHECK FOR PROPER ENGAGEMENT, dial both hubs to LOCK and raise the front left corner of the vehicle off the ground. Spin the lifted tire. The drive line will turn if the Hub is engaging properly. TO CHECK FOR PROPER DISENGAGEMENT, dial the lifted wheel hub into FREE and spin the lifted wheel. If the drive line does not turn AND you hear NO ratcheting sounds, the hub is disengaging properly. Repeat step 5- 6 with the right wheel & hub. NOTE: The hubs are not required to seat against the wheel housing when installed, they may move in and out quite easily. This “float” is normal and will not affect performance..." by Warn®.
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See Steve's Brakes & Hubs at
http://www.supermotors.net/registry/2742/12739-4
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The socket looks correct... can you get one from local parts store under a loan a tool program with refundable deposit?
This is by Steve,
spanners.jpg
"The L spanner is stronger & less likely to slip off a nut, but it won't work on a self-locking nut."
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Operational Test; "... (engine off, hubs disengaged), crawl under the truck with the transfer case in 2HI, you should be able to grab the front drive shaft and turn it by hand. Also with the hubs disengaged you should see the front axles turning freely. Now engage the hubs and you should not be able to turn the drive shaft by hand. Jack the front wheels off the ground with the hubs engaged, turn the drive shaft by hand, the wheels should turn. The 4x4 light should not be on in 2HI, when in 4LOW you may have a low range light on, (not all trucks have that light) at least mine doesn't..."
Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums