yo.
All 96 Broncos came with either 3 ***** hubs or manual hubs,
A few Ford sources have claimed all were mfg by Warn for Ford.
Bearing Locknut Socket incl. 95-96 w/pics; "...No. 519097-5 – 2-1/2" rounded hex locknut socket works on 1995–96 Ford F-150 trucks and full-sized Broncos with 2 ***** automatic locking hubs. Similar to Ford No. 205-348 (T95T-1197-A) ..."
Source: by OTC
I don't know OTC's Internet team screwed up their website to show just the socket kit; but search or ask NAPA for the OTC #519097-5 (Ford #T95T-1197-A)
Some on-line sources;
http://www.toolsource.com/wheel-bearing-locknut-socket-t95t-1197-rounded-p-108030.html
http://www.autotoolworld.com/OTC-519097-5-Wheel-Bearing-Locknut-Socket-T95T-1197-A-2-12-Rounded-Hex_p_162787.html
http://www.usatoolwarehouse.com/usatoolwarehouse/OTC-519097-5.html
Wheel Bearing Locknut Torque Settings in a 96 from 1996 F-150, F-250, F-350, and Bronco Workshop Manual; "...While rotating rotor and hub, retighten wheel bearing retainer (nut) to 68 Nm (50 lb-ft) to seat wheel bearings. Back off nut 90 degrees (1/4 turn). Tighten wheel retainer nut to 1.8 Nm (16 lb-in). If necessary, tighten nut to next slot to allow installation of retainer key. Install retaining key into the spindle keyway by inserting the short leg into the aligned slot in nut. Press all the way into position until curved portion of retaining key is seated into counterbore of wheel retainer (nut). Install cam assembly. CAUTION: Improper sequence of three-piece ****** washers will result in excessive wear of assembly. Install three washers in order: metal washer first, plastic washer second and splined washer last. Install C-ring or lock ring. Align legs of cam assembly for installation of hub body. Check that the final end play of the front disc brake hub and rotor on the front wheel spindle is 0.00-0.50mm (0.000-0.002 inch. CAUTION: Excessive end play or torque greater than 2.3 Nm (20 lb-in) to rotate hub and rotor will result in excessive wear of wheel bearings. Torque required to rotate the front disc brake hub and rotor is not to exceed 2.3 Nm (20 lb-in). Install hublock. Tighten screws to 4-6 Nm (35-53 lb-in). Remove safety stands. Lower vehicle..." See Diagrams
Source: by Ford via thedieselstop.com Note that last torque setting is in Pound INCH
Hook Set, pic, typical, for removing C Clips especially in 95-96 3 ***** hubs; 4 Pc Dominator® “Mini” Hook & Pick Set EDP# 60003
Source: by Mayhew Tools
or similar set @ Wal Mart
Section 05-03C: Wheel Hubs and Bearings, Front Wheels, 4-Wheel Drive
1996 F-150, F-250, F-350, and Bronco Workshop Manual
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
Locking Hubs, Automatic
Automatic Locking Hub, F-150 and Bronco
http://www.diesel-dave.com/vehic/manual/stj/stj53c07.htm
Also see
Section 05-03C: Wheel Hubs and Bearings, Front Wheels, 4-Wheel Drive
Wheel Grease Seal and Bearing, Front
Replacement and Repacking
SPECIAL SERVICE TOOL(S) REQUIRED
Description
Tool Number
Hub Nut Wrench T95T-1197-B
http://www.diesel-dave.com/vehic/manual/stj/stj53c08.htm#wgs53c
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Operational Test in a 96; "...Automatic Locking Hubs: Raise vehicle on a hoist so that all wheels are off the ground. Start engine (6007) with vehicle in neutral and transfer case in two-wheel drive. Front wheels should spin freely by hand. Put transfer case in 4WD and put vehicle in gear. Front and rear wheels should rotate together. Put vehicle in neutral and spin front wheels by hand in the forward direction. The front axle and front driveshaft should rotate with the wheels. The additional load of the drivetrain components should be felt once the hub has been engaged. To disengage the hubs, spin the wheels in the opposite direction until an audible click is heard. Spin wheels forward again and they should rotate freely without the axle and driveshaft rotating. Repeat the procedure, only shift into 4-wheel drive and put the vehicle in reverse. This time the hubs should release when the front wheels are spun in the forward direction. NOTE: While the vehicle is hoisted, shift into 4-wheel drive from a dead stop and not while rear wheels are rotating in order to avoid slamming the hub locks into the lock position. Road Test; When checking front hubs for proper operation, road test the vehicle to make sure the hubs will remain engaged while under load. This is accomplished by engaging 4-wheel drive and taking the vehicle through several turns (both forward and backward) on dry pavement. This will put an additional load on the front wheel at the outside of the turn because it is traveling the greatest distance. Driving through several turns while traveling in different directions will make sure that both sides of the hub teeth have been tested under load. Hubs that are not sufficiently engaged will pop out when loaded. This is due to the driveline releasing windup and is an indication of hub malfunction. If slippage is suspected, mark the tire and axle shaft with chalk (after locking the hub) and apply a heavy torque load several times. Then inspect your original indexing marks. If they are no longer aligned, the hubs are not remaining locked when under load. They will have to be replaced. Should hublocks become submerged in water or mud for a long period of time, water may get past the seals and into the hubs and axle. In this case, all water must be expelled from the system. The axle must be drained by loosening the axle cover and 4x4 Gear Oil F1TZ-19580-A (WSL-M2C191-A) used to refill the axle (F1TZ-19580-A has no equivalent). Disassemble the hubs using procedures in this section and repack the wheel bearings using procedures in this section and dry off the hublocks. Reassemble hubs using procedures in this section. Refer to Section 05-03A or Section 05-03B for replacement of outer axle shaft seals or spindle inner seal and bearing. ..." from 1996 F-150, F-250, F-350, and Bronco Workshop Manual
Source: by Ford via thedieselstop.com
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