Just got my bronco and back window won't roll

The motor works great but I'm not sure how to put back on tracks

Is it a track issue or is the gear  on the motor tore up ?  That's the usual problem... Have you taken off the panel and looked to see for sure ?

yo Sh3,

Welcome!

As Digger asked and what year?

Here is some info collected over the years; I have more in my former site @ http://web.archive.org/web/20110818162609/http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=478

read my signature to see how to view original URL; but some will show the archived site.

Glass Replacement & Parts Break-Out Diagram in a 96 from 1996 F-150, F-250, F-350, F-Super Duty and Bronco Workshop Manual; "...Open tailgate. Remove inside cover access panel and retaining screws. Remove inside cover panel support and retaining screws. Remove inside cover watershield. Manually close both tailgate latches and raise the tailgate glass. Remove four nuts retaining tailgate back window glass (42006) and back window glass bracket (422B18) to back window regulator. If tailgate has heated glass option, disconnect two terminals (driver's side). Grind off four rivets, two on each back window glass bracket to tailgate glass. Punch out four rivets and remove four door window glass channel bracket retainers (234A46) and door window glass bracket spacers (234A44). Remove screws and pull out tailgate upper corner seal assemblies, one on each side. Snap out inside and outside tailgate weatherstrips with tool. Slide tailgate back window glass out from tailgate assembly. Installation, Slide glass midway into tailgate assembly. Connect heated glass wires, if equipped. Install back window glass bracket C-channels onto the tailgate window regulator arm slide guides. Position tailgate back window glass over back window glass bracket C-channel studs and install four door window glass bracket spacers, door window glass channel bracket retainers and rivets. Lower tailgate back window glass to connect heated glass wiring terminals. Close tailgate and cycle tailgate back window glass to ensure smooth operation. Install watershield. Install inside cover panel support (one *****). Install ten inside cover access panel screws. Close door and cycle tailgate back window glass to ensure proper function..."

Item Part Number Description

1 41610 Outside Weatherstrip, Tailgate

2 23394 Window Regulator Electric Drive

3 380642-S ****** Outside Weatherstrip-to-Tailgate

4 42072 Inside Weatherstrip, Tailgate

5 40700 Tailgate

6 57472-S2 Bolt, Back Window Glass Run-to-Tailgate

7 422A20 Back Window Glass Run

8 387392-S Bumper

9 44000 Tailgate Window Regulator

10 422B18 Back Window Glass Bracket

11 57472-S2 Bolt, Tailgate Window Regulator-to-Tailgate

(4 Req'd)

12 42006 Back Window Glass

13 43505 Lock Cylinder, Tailgate

14 41616 Upper Corner Seal, Tailgate

15 376389-S ****** Tailgate Upper Corner Seal-to-Tailgate

16 14559 Clip, Window Regulator Switch Retainer

17 43629 Retainer, Tailgate Lock Cylinder

18 385323-S Rivet, Back Window Glass Bracket-to-Back Window Glass

19 234A44 Door Window Glass Bracket Spacer

20 234A46 Door Window Glass Channel Bracket Retainer

21 234A24 Window Regulator Drive Gear Kit

A — Tighten to 6-11 Nm

(53-97 Lb-Ft)

5.Manually close both tailgate latches and raise the tailgate glass.

6.Remove four nuts retaining tailgate back window glass (42006) and back window glass bracket (422B18) to back window regulator.

7.If tailgate has heated glass option, disconnect two terminals (driver's side).

8.Grind off four rivets, two on each back window glass bracket to tailgate glass. Punch out four rivets and remove four door window glass channel bracket retainers (234A46) and door window glass bracket spacers (234A44).

9.Remove screws and pull out tailgate upper corner seal assemblies, one on each side.

10.Snap out inside and outside tailgate weatherstrips with tool.

11.Slide tailgate back window glass out from tailgate assembly.

Installation

1.Slide glass midway into tailgate assembly.

2.Connect heated glass wires, if equipped.

3.Install back window glass bracket C-channels onto the tailgate window regulator arm slide guides

4.Position tailgate back window glass over back window glass bracket C-channel studs and install four door window glass bracket spacers, door window glass channel bracket retainers and rivets.

5.Lower tailgate back window glass to connect heated glass wiring terminals.

6.Close tailgate and cycle tailgate back window glass to ensure smooth operation.

7.Install watershield.

8.Install inside cover panel support (one *****).

9.Install ten inside cover access panel screws.

10.Close door and cycle tailgate back window glass to ensure proper function.

Source: by Ford

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Glass Roller (Dorman Universal Window Roller 74402) Installation in an 85

Source: by spikedzombies (O' Black Betty) at http://www.supermotors.net/registry/18028/66512

Glass Replacement (pics are gone); Bronco Journal October 10th, 2002; Work Project: Tailgate Glass Repair Journal Entry #7. "...Hello, this is my work journal for October 10th, 2002. Today was a day of accomplishment. It was time to put the tailgate back together and see if I could get the window to go up and down without being lazy. The problem was it would labor at about the mid-point of the tailgate. I already had many components removed from the tailgate - including the motor and the window. It was time to put it all back in and hope that things worked. What I had to do, was replace or repair the wiring harness. There was damage that was repair-attempted by someone at the exit from the tailgate to the main body (behind the taillight). The restrictions that caused the window/motor to labor was many - much of the regulator assembly had to be cleaned and oiled. The brackets that attach to the window pane were also filthy and needed cleaning. This was a big job for sure. I called Ford Parts to see what a new wiring harness (with integral switches and heated) would cost...yikes, it was over $211.00 CDN. A little steep, so it goes without saying, I decided to repair any damage, replace and bad segments and re-lash the whole assembly. Thus it was done. Removing the Glass. To remove the glass from a Bronco's tailgate is rather simple. First, you have to grind off the rivets that hold the brackets to the glass. I used a dremel and a cutoff wheel for this job. The rivets simply are pushed out once the heads are cut off. The brackets are removed by sliding them off the regulator arm ****. The brackets were cleaned and a new coat of grease was applied to the inner tracks. The bracket as removed - soiled, grungy and some corrosion. A brass wire brush on the drill made short work of cleaning the bracket. Click on the photo to see a BIG picture. The next step is to remove all the weather stripping and inserts. The first to remove are the two corner pieces - each secured by a SM ***** at the tailgate sides. The outer weather strip also has two screws - one at each end. It is then removed by pulling straight out. The inner strip is also removed by pulling straight out - it has no screws. The tailgate window glass is now easy to remove by pulling it straight out of the tailgate. Make sure you have a buddy or wife to help here as you do not want to slip and drop the glass. Don't forget to unplug the defroster plugs from the harness to the pane first - and watch them as you remove the glass - they could break. I broke one like a ****** but was able to solder it back on with flux and torch and 60/40. Once the glass is out - I removed the wiring harness. You have to take the driver side glass guide rail off (2 bolts) to get where the harness is attached to the inner wall of the tailgate. It is secured by a couple push plugs into a small bracket. The KEY switch also needs to be removed and this is done by simply yanking the wire clip that holds it in place. A few days before this project, I was lowering my glass - and it all died. I thought I blew the motor - so I wanted to remove it for inspection and cleaning - and possible repair or replacement. I removed the motor and tested it out with a 12 V 11 A power supply - it worked, so it only needed to be cleaned and new grease applied to the pinion gear. To remove the motor - first remove the three bolts as indicated in the photo. The motor will slide out towards the passenger side. However, before removing the bolts, you have to jam the regulator so that it does not kick back when the motor is removed. This is accomplished by placing a block(s) of wood against the driver's side regulator arm and the inner tailgate. See the photo below. Make sure the regulator arm is secure or you could lose a finger - the regulator is under tension - there is a heavy return spring in the assembly. Jamming the regulator BEFORE removing the motor assembly. After removing and cleaning all the components - the installation was basically the reverse of the disassembly outlined above. I will be purchasing a new tailgate shell in the near future, so I did not replace the weather stripping at this point - they were all in good shape - but I will replace them with a new tailgate in the future. I did have to make some splices to run new wire for a section of the wiring harness. If you do this - make sure the connections are well heat-shrunk and taped to prevent moisture from getting in and causing the same problems all over again. And that is pretty much it - in a summarized fashion that is - I did not want to list the 100 things that one needs to do to rebuild the tailgate as I did. I did re-space the tailgate outer skin from the inner wall to make sure the glass did not bind in its curve at the midpoint. Someone must have backed into something in its history - a small dent in the tailgate provided the evidence. The glass would bind at its midpoint within the weather stripping - and prying the mouth to an equal distance along its entire length solved this problem. This of course was done without the glass in the gate. As a final note - to install the glass back into the tailgate - you have to rivet the brackets back to the nylon disks on the glass. I used 3/16 inch aluminum pop rivets with backing washers. It did the trick - like new. (1) Pop riveting the brackets to the glass. (2) A new run of wires and protective wrap on the harness. The connector is behind the taillight lens..." Source: by RFR (Mark B) @ http://web.archive.org/web/20081202181804/http://web.archive.org/web/20030709205117/rfr.htmlplanet.com/bronco/journal/journal_page07.html

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Glass Run Channel Installation (pics are gone)

Source: by Str0ud "...I change out the rear glass run channel. This takes 10 mins. if you work slow and take pictures. Not much tech to it, Step 1: Pull the old strip out. Just start top and center and pull, it will come right out. Notice the plastic retaining clips, these may need to be reused. Locate the holes for the retaining clips. My new run channel came with clips.Step 2: Shove new strip into channel, push in new retaining clips, roll up window, all sealed up..."

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Glass Replacement; "...If the motor runs but doesn't move the glass, push the glass up for access. The glass is strong enough to support its own weight fully extended, but no extra weight..." miesk5 note, make sure the tailgate is resting DOWN fully (horizontally) by pushing or sitting on it before pulling glass out by hand (or closing driver side Latch by hand and using Key switch or driver's Dash switch to energize motor) because the TG's Support cables need to fully stretched. I use a standard height saw horse with a blanket folded to support glass & sliding saw horse under da glass. To extend the glass, I close the driver's side latch's jaws on side of tailgate, I use a ***** driver to close the jaws, so that the glass can be moved by TG Key Switch or Dash Switch to work on internals; when done & window is retracted within the TG, use the Handle to release the jaws & close the TG; & in his #7; "If the motor doesn't run, remove the 4 nuts (2 on each side - see below) that hold the regulator tracks to the glass brackets. Bend the regulator arms down slightly to pull the studs out of the brackets, and then push the glass up. Remember to FULLY lower the glass before lifting or closing the t/g..."

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"...If the glass is clear of the shell, but you can't open the t/g, remove the inside access panel & pull these 2 rods inward. Either unclip them from the center mechanism, or pull them like bow strings to release each latch. Make sure the glass isnt so high that it engages the campers groove, or it could break. If it wont come down, unbolt the slides from the glass, or the motor from the regulator to lower the glass..." Miesk5 Note, the bars are referred to as the Latch Rods in most diagrams

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Parts Swap from old TG to New TG in an 88 (many photos) BEST PROCESS!

Source: by Dustin S (Dustball, Mellow Yellow, Mr. Laser Boy) at http://ylobronc.users.superford.org/tailgate.html

*** EXCERPTS ***

"...My old tailgate was very rusty and the window stopped going up and down due to one of the window guide brackets rusting out and throwing the window out of alignment and a rusted regulator. Rather than try to fix it and worrying about how much longer it would last, I decided to replace the tailgate shell...

Next, close the latch on the driver's side to allow the window to move while the tailgate is down. I moved the glass until it was halfway out. Make sure the glass is supported- I used an adjustable stand that was originally used as a table saw extension stand...

Then remove the nuts on the two brackets holding the glass to the regulator. Mine were rusted and two broke off. The weatherstrips on my tailgate was rotted away so I could pull the glass out without removing the brackets from the glass. If your weatherstrips are still in good shape, you may have to remove the rivets from the brackets to be able to slide the glass out or remove the weatherstrips. Don't forget to unplug the defrost wires from the glass...

...This is what the complete regulator looks like once you have pulled it out. One of the reasons why my window wouldn't go up or down was because the regulator was so rusty. The arms wouldn't move freely because of the lack of lubrication and lots of friction. I could barely move the arms by hand once the motor was taken out. I got another one from a junkyard for $50 and the problem has been cured.

If your regulator is still in good shape, you should prevent the arms from moving before taking out the motor. I used a bolt and a bracket I found around the garage to secure the arms from snapping together...

This is the back side of the regulator showing you how the motor is mounted. There are two bolts that hold the motor on. Remove both and pull the motor loose.

This is a view of the motor by itself. Now would be a good time to open the case and check the internals for any problems...

The three nylon bushings inside the motor are a common source of failure. These bushings are driven by a worm drive and are what makes the outer gear rotate. I have heard of replacing them with ball bearings or some dowels wrapped in fuel line of the right size.

READ AND SEE MORE..

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Lubrication; "...90% of you all probably already know this so I guess I'm talking to the other 10% of us who don't/didn't. My rear window has been giving me problems for the last 4 months. It would go down a few inches and it would get stuck. Then I would either have to rock the dash switch back and forth to get it to go down or go to the back and use the key with one hand and push down the window with the other---Very frustrating. FIX: 1) First roll down the window, drop the gate and take off the inside panel (about 8 philips head screws) covering the tailgate. You will see pretty much nothing but glass after doing this. 2) Then manually flip the latches so you can use the key to roll the window back up. ***Very Important*** Put something under the window to support it--sawhorse, lawnmower or whatever. The weight of the glass could cause it to break when rolled up with the tailgate down. 3) After the glass is up you'll have access to the inside mechanisms. If you bend over and look at the underside you'll see a couple of arms that attach to two 6"-8" pieces of channel. These arms move along the channel to raise and lower the glass. 4) Get some (Miesk5 Note; use white Lithium grease) and smear inside both channels. You don't have to glob it in there just put enough that it goes completely on and along the inside of the channels. 5) Roll the glass back down. 6) Put your inside panel back on. 7) Pull your tailgate release handle one time to make your latches go back to the open position and close your tailgate. 8) Now roll up your window and see if it helped any. Mine goes up just as smooth as ever now. It doesn't slow down a bit. Now this may not work for everyone but it sure worked on my rig. Brian..BTW, this took about 45 minutes start to finish...."

Source: by msuforeman

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Motor Torque Pin (also called Bushing) Info & pic; "...fixed it for free some fuel line and a few small cunks of a bolt. Here is a closeup of the bad parts. in the points of the triangle there should be 3 round pins. this help cousion the window from motor shock. I cleaned all the old grease out of the motor and the final drive. my final drive was fine so i was going to reuse it. To rebuild for almost free here is all you need. some fuel line and some steel rod or round spacer (this keeps the fuel line from colapsing completely) i cut the fuel line to the height of the drive gear housing and cut the spacers from round stock i had on the bench. the steel spacers go inside of the rubber fuel line. then the rubber fuel line and steel spacers go in the final drive gear.this was a tight fit but not too tight..."

Source: by Michael C

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Motor Torque Pin (also called Bushing) Info & pic; "...Dorman HELP part number 74410..."

Source: by Sixlitre (Malcolm H, Eddie Bauer) at http://www.supermotors.org/getfile/233770/fullsize/IMG_0020.JPG

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Motor Gear Housing pics in a 90

Source: by ElKabong (Ken, El Kabong) at http://www.supermotors.net/vehicles/registry/15781/55785

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Motor Replacement in a 90; "...Another discovery I made was the lack of threads in the mounting holes of my replacement motor. I suspect most aftermarket replacement motors do not have threads. I made the decision to put threads in the holes rather than fight with nuts (once you've found what fun it is to remove one of these motor, you'll agree). I used a 12-24 N.C. tap to match the threads to the original bolts..."

Source: by Mud E1 (Brent R) at bejara.com viahttp://web.archive.org/web/20040412090218/http://www.bejara.com/twmr.html

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It's a 90 and the gear is good.

yo, ok; What do you mean by "The motor works great but I'm not sure how to put back on tracks"? Did the replies by Digger and zI help at all?

for clarification, are you addressing the glass and it's track?

Yes, what I meant by the motor works great was the back window motor that controls the gear and yes it helped a little bit. Do you have any links to a video showing how to put the glass back on tracks

yo,

OK!

No videos that I have seen but, here is more info

See Dustin's article and pic that I posted; excerpt; "Next, close the latch on the driver's side to allow the window to move while the tailgate is down. I moved the glass until it was halfway out. Make sure the glass is supported- I used an adjustable stand that

Then remove the nuts on the two brackets holding the glass to the regulator. Mine were rusted and two broke off. The weatherstrips on my tailgate was rotted away so I could pull the glass out without removing the brackets from the glass. If your weatherstrips are still in good shape, you may have to remove the rivets from the brackets to be able to slide the glass out or remove the weatherstrips. Don't forget to unplug the defrost wires from the glass.

http://ylobronc.users.superford.org/glass_retainer.JPG

Glass Replacement

Source: by Bradt (Brad)

" I don't know your level of experience, so bear with me. I don't have any pictures up, but there's really only 3 unique parts in there if you exclude the motor.

First thing you want to do is take off the access panel inside the tailgate, and use a shopvac to get out all the glass.

There's 2 bolts on either side of the tailgate. These go to the runners that guide the glass in and out. Go ahead and take them out and clear any glass left in them, and put them back in. Just tighten them down with your hands at this point because you may need to reloosen them to get the runners to line up with the glass.

There are two pretty stout springs on the arms that raise and lower your window, so be careful if you decide to check the motor or deal with any of that. They will give you a nasty cut at best or break a finger if you're not careful. As long as you leave the motor hooked up though you should be ok. Still something to keep in mind.

Now, with the tailgate open, close the latch on the driver's side (this will bypass the safety) and lower the arms so they are about halfway down. Anywhere that you can reach to them is fine. Re open the latch to engage the safety again so you don't accidently trip the switch and get yourself in trouble.

You will see two window regulators with 2 discs each on them for mounting the glass. Slide these off. If you slide to one side or the other they should come right off.

Now that you have them off look at the disks on these. Using a screwdriver or any tool that's narrow enough, clear the glass out of there.

Now that you have the broken glass out hold the regulator so that the disks are facing away and you are looking at the rivet head. You're going to need a dremel or other small metal cutting tool. If you're using a dremel either mount the regulator in a brace or get a thick leather glove because it will get hot from the friction. Now push the rivet from the back so you get a small gap between the head and the runner. Just take your dremel and cut the head off. Do the same thing for all four. Note how they are attached though, because you will have to put them back the same way. If you think you may forget take a picture or make a sketch. Doesn't matter which spot you put them in so long a the "front" and "back" are right. You will need to go ahead and pop them apart. They should be pretty easy to just pull apart.

Get yourself some steel wool or a heavy brush and clean all the stuff out of the slide on the regulators. If you have some grease you may want to go ahead and **** up your gearing in the back of the window, and definately the regulators. I used some silicon grease. It comes in an aerosol can and works pretty well.

Now that you've got everything apart here comes the bad news. You need to get four long 1/4 inch rivets. I think they're 1/4 inch anyway. If you take the disk and the rivet head to a shop they'll know what to get you. Now, unless you just have a heavy duty rivet gun or want to drop a couple hundred bucks on one, you're either going to have to rent one or know somebody that has one that can drive those rivets back in. I found a local body shop here, and the guy put the rivets in for me no charge.

Once you've got all the tools/parts slide the clean, greased regulators back on. You'll probably need a second set of hands for this part. Slide the window into place and put the disks onto the glass. If you put them on first you won't get it past the weather stripping on your gate. Be careful sliding the glass back in. Make sure it goes back into the runners and if the weather stripping gets caught and folds back use a butter knife to run along it and get it situated back the right way. If you use your pocket knife use the back side of the blade. You don't want cuts in it.

Now that you have the disks back on and the glass in all you have left to do is line the disks back up on the regulators and put on the rivets. Just make sure you have the disks on the right way, and you lined them back up so the metal disk is on one side, and the regulator on the other. Tighten up your runners if they're still loose. Replace the panel and there you go.

Brad "

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Glass Replacement in an 86

Source: by Sixlitre (Malcolm H, Eddie Bauer) at http://www.supermotors.net/clubs/superford/registry/4970/54532

Thank you very much!