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Here is some info;
Installation, Ford Motorsport Shorties in a 90 5.0 (pics are gone)
Source: by Mud E1 (Brent R) at bejara.com via
http://web.archive.org/web/20130507135222/http://web.archive.org/web/20051123032223/http://www.bejara.com/fmsh.html
"The part number for these headers is M-9430-T50 and they are described in Ford's 2003 Motorsport catalog as fitting "1990-95 F-Series Truck and E-Series Van with 5.0L engine." There's a footnote that indicates they are designed for stock and "all GT-40 heads." They don't have anything listed separately for a Bronco, but they fit mine just fine.
Two notes should be made regarding them: (1) the passenger side does have a threaded hole for a sensor (I plugged mine because my sensor is in the exhaust pipe), and (2) there is no air tube on these headers. I guess some vehicles came with an air tube that runs into one of the manifolds. My vehicle does not. Other parts I used were some copper gaskets from Summit, part number SUM-111430, and some Permatex Ultra Copper RTV silicone. Please also note that these pictures were taken at the time I was replacing the exhaust manifolds, hence no pictures of the stock manifolds.
STEP 1: Unbolt the stock manifolds from the exhaust pipes. Three of the nuts are easily accessible with an extension and socket, but one (above starter nearest the engine block) may require a "wobblie". An air gun comes in handy here.
STEP 2: Unbolt stock manifolds from heads. I was able to remove all my factory manifold bolts using a 3/8" air ratchet.
STEP 3: Be sure the surface of the heads are clean before bolting the new headers on.
STEP 4: Run a bead of Ultra Copper silicone around the headers (one at a time as you install them) and then place the copper gaskets on with the raised portion facing the headers. Let sit for a few minutes and then run another bead on the gaskets to ensure proper sealing.
STEP 5: Bolt headers to the heads using header bolts, ignoring anything that was previously bolted to the manifolds (we'll address that in a later step). I used 1/4" drive sockets and ratchet to get the header bolts installed before giving them the final torque sequence with a 3/8" ratchet. Although I was able to remove the furthest rear bolt on the right side of the engine from above, I had to get the header bolt started from underneath the vehicle--accessing it between the frame and inner fender.
STEP 6: Torque header bolts to specifications
STEP 7: Fabricate any necessary brackets that are needed to ensure nothing rubs or comes into contact with the headers during normal operation. Those headers can get real hot! I used some miscellaneous brackets I had lying around and modified them to fit. This step is not difficult but was the longest part of the project for me as I'm kinda picky.
STEP 7: Zip tie any loose wires (including plug wires) and be sure the battery cable that runs to the starter is insulated from the heat that the headers will be generating.
STEP 8: Bolt the exhaust pipes up to the headers and check everything over before starting the engine.
STEP 9: Enjoy the ride! Be prepared to re-torque the headers if needed every so often to keep things sealed. My copper gaskets have kept things sealed for awhile now."
Installation, Summit® (PaceSetter) Shorties in a 90 5.8
Source: by 90Beater (Topher, Chris) at
http://bronco.tophersworld.com/writeup_headers.htm
Installation Instructions, Edelbrock #66492, #66493 in 88-96 Bronco & F150/F250 5.8L w/ Auto/Std. Transmission; without A.I.R
Source: by Edelbrock
http://web.archive.org/web/20120726170741/http://www.edelbrock.com//automotive_new/misc/tech_center/install/6000/66492.pdf
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