1994 ford bronco hard shifting after speedo went out! Help

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Broncomanshane

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Ok so my automatic 1994 ford bronco xlt with the 5.0 4x4 went from great to terrible. I have the hard shifting at higher rpms. Ive only let it get into second gear but it shifts way higher and harder than the NIGHT before. On the way home from

Work a big semi shoveled a bunch of water onto my driver side and my speedo went insane from 0-80 up and down crazy then kinda fixed itself. Parked it, went to go to work and have this issue, and now the speedo doesnt work??? This is my only vehicle and the mechanic i took it to is clueless.. Please help i have no

Clue

 

miesk5

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yo SHANE,

WELCOME!

First off, I know when you see my reply, it will look overwhelming, so look at the highlighted parts first.

Check Fuses 8 & 18 in Cab fuse block (lower left of dash by driver's left knee)
 

Fuse & Power Distribution Box Diagram in a 94 Bronco

fuses94gas.jpg
Source: by Ford via Steve

If no 12 v on Supply Side of each; look in Power Distribution Box (Located under the hood on the drivers side fender liner, on driver's side of the air cleaner housing)
and check **** FUSE J for Fuses 15 and 18 (IP Fuse Panel), Starter Relay
& S for Fuses 4, 8 and 16 (IP Fuse Panel). Also See Circuit Breaker 12


This problem could be caused by a # of things;
bad vehicle speed sensor (VSS) (also called ABS,, DSS sensor) sensor on top of 8.8 (rear differential)/ or
Connector/corroded wires inside connector; Check this first
or cruddy/damaged tone ring in the 8.8.  L

106_0663.jpg

VSS location pic in an 8.8 (rear differential) by Shadofax (TheJuice, The Juice, Mark Z)

bad wiring/shorts /connectors from VSS at firewall, at 4WABS Module and /or at PSOM and then onto the PCM the locations of the connectors along the path from VSS to 4WABS and up to Instr Cluster & PSOM are;

C404 VSS On rear axle sensor (A7) Terminals: 02

C205 LH rear of engine compartment, in safety wall (Fire Wall) Terminals: 24 In-Line

C202F & M LH rear of engine compartment, in safety wall (A8) Terminal: 7 In-Line

C119 LH front corner of engine compartment on 4WABS control module (E10),Terminals: 40

O/LB to:
C202F & M LH rear of engine compartment, in safety wall (A8) Terminal: 7 In-Line

C252 Programmable Speedometer/Odometer Module (PSOM), Behind top LH side of I/P, on PSOM (A7) Terminal: 12 Color: B at Pins 4

LG/Y to Splice S107 Engine control sensor harness, from C119 near T/O to G101 (G101 RH side of Radiator support); to PSOM Pin 5
C202 F and M
and spliced to Ground G100 (BK)
G100 & G104 (tied together in diagram) G100 @ LH front of engine compartment, on upper radiator support

G100 Serves Component:
Fuel Pump Module
Inertia Fuel Shutoff
Misfire Sensor
Misfire Sensor Shield
Output Shaft Speed (OSS) Sensor
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), 5.0L


From PSOM Pin 7 (GY/BK) to Splice S246 Main harness, near T/O to speed control amplifier to
C185 PK/O @ PCM 5.0L Powertrain Control Module (PCM) LH side of safety wall, on powertrain control module (PCM) (C10) Terminal: 104 Color: GY
C185, 5.8L Powertrain Control Module (PCM) LH side of safety wall, on powertrain control module (PCM) (C10) Terminal: 104 Color: GY

C185 @PCM to C202 F and M
Splice 216 to Ground G200, Instrument Cluster ground is inside passenger side kick panel

and on to C185 @ PCM PIN 58 (GY/BK) and from Pin 46 to MLPS (TR) Pin 2
Verify PCM & MLPS wiring & Pin numbers using following WIRING DIAGRAMs by Ford via Steve

http://www.supermoto...y/media/95931_1

To bypass the 4WABS module @ it's harness's connector & feed the ABS signal directly to the PSOM,
Disconnect module (under coolant recovery /ws washer tank) & in connector, jumper LG/Bk to LG/Y, and R/Pk to O/LB. Here's a pic of the connector and jumpers; @ 4WABS Module Connector in 93-96; "...jumper 14 (CKT 530, LG/Y) to 21 (CKT 519 (LG/BK) & 39 (CKT 491 (O/LB) to 22 (CKT 523, R/PK)...";
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...rw-jumpers.jpg
Source: by Turbo Ghost

Speed Input Signal Test @ PSOM in 93-96 Bronco; "...NOTE: Only wiring harness end of connector is to be probed. * Connect Rotunda Digital Volt-Ohmmeter 014-00407 or equivalent to Pin 4 (speed in ) and Pin 5 (speed in -). * Does the voltage increase smoothly and continuously from 0 to approximately 3.5 volts as vehicle speed increases from 0 to 48 km/h (0 to 30 mph)? OR: If available, a frequency counter may be connected to Pin 4 (Speed in ) and Pin 5 (Speed in -). Does the displayed frequency of the signal increase smoothly and continuously from 0 to approximately 667 Hz at approximately 48 km/h (30 mph)? OR: * If neither a voltmeter nor frequency counter is available, cruise control may be used as a good indicator. If it works normally, then the speedometer module is at least receiving a speed input signal and the wiring and sensor & tone
If you have cruise control
ws the recall and updates done?  Checkk w/local Ford dealer

Defective VSS; "... Anyway, the autozone VSS looks almost identical to the ford VSS. They are both now made of plastic. You have to look very closely to see minor differences. However, the magnet inside does not budge in the ford part, no rattling noise at all. The Autozone part rattles when shaken, ie. the magnet has room to move inside the plastic housing.[/b]It's was a big lesson for me. Wrong readings from the VSS can cause so much E4OD problems...erratic shifting, late shifting, hard shifting, feeling like it was in neutral, as well as engine cutting off at stop lights---Even if it registers correct readings on your speedometer..."
Source: by bkne40d
 

Tone Ring Inspection; "Take off the rear diff cover. Check the Ring Tone gear. It is located on the left hand side of the ring gear. Look to see if any of the teeth have been notched (from debris floating around in the diff.) Usually a spider gear. If the ring tone gear has been notched, it will need to be replaced to fix your speedo reading. Jack it up and rotate the tires to look for the teeth to be notched/broken/bent..."
Source: by Bighibbi

See if the 8.8's vent hose is off the ****** atop the diff; water could have gotten in.

 

 
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Broncomanshane

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Ok so i think i may have found the culprit. The green wire on the connector came out of the heat shrink piece and the clip to the VSS was busted and the rubber boot was separated from the plastic exposing the two 1/4 in in length wires and i know thats probably not

Right as well. Also, this aftermarket vss has a rubber o ring that makes it somewhat hard for the bolt to grab... Is this ok? I took a couple pictures just dont know how to post

 
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Broncomanshane

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So i just went ahead changed the connector and vss. The wires to splice it in are practically black, no shine at all. I spliced it all in pulled out of driveway, speedo jumped around a little and then nothing? I also changed fuses 8 and 18 for the **** of it. Really bummed here. Thought it was good and hopped around a little bit and then sat at zero. Transmissiom still doesnt know when to shift

 

miesk5

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yo Shane,

I prefer Motorcraft Sensors, esp. the VSS.

 I buy Ford Motorcraft parts via AMAZON for VG $ savings & often w/free shipping & handling;
they are VG at delvy; I bought a $150.00 DPFE Sensor (not incl. sales tax) for $50.00 with free shipping and no state sales tax; same savings for the IAC sensor

Do you have a helper to go through some of the tests I showed in prev reply?

 
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Broncomanshane

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I was just looking on amazon and am not sure which part number i need? The one listed, when i put in the year and make

It said wouldnt fit my 94.?

Also what helper do you speak of?

I think its either those ****** wires or that vss i got

Isnt correct, because it wanted to work but didnt, not sure if magnet isnt getting a good read from

Tone ring or wrong sensor. Theres 25 diff parts throughout speed sensors for my vehicle all with different part numbers but all lool the same. I purchased part number ABS 111 through advance auto

 
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Broncomanshane

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Had the truck about 16 months. Ive put in new battery, solenoid, starter, plugs and IAC bcz my

Idle was real junpy when id cold start, and now the vss problem. My old one may be good, i

Think it got

Shorted out because of green wire came undone from crimp sleeve. I noticed it when i bolted new vss that the wire was undone

 

miesk5

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yo,

http://www.fordparts.com

Part #: BRAB-130

Manufacturer: Motorcraft
Description: ABS Sensor
Motorcraft Supersession info:
 

Buyer's guide Add to Cart 

 


Part #: 2L373
Manufacturer: Ford
Description: ABS Sensor

 




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Part Number: BRAB130 Description: ABS Sensor Manufacturer: MotorCraft Years: 1990-2005 Applications: 3083Print

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call local dealer

 
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Broncomanshane

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Any input on those cruddy wires? Possible to rewire it all the way to the front end? What kind of wire? Is it just copper

 

miesk5

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yo,

 Cruddy wiring is not good; especially if there is corrosion (crud) between the copper wire strands

read about cleaning at http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1076468

You could run a 2 conductor copper wire from VSS Connector all the way up to the 4WABS Module Connector.  I know of maybe two people had to do this due to prev owner hack jobs.

If you have a multi-meter, take a resistance reading of the VSS wires and report back.  Ford did change the VSS around the 94-96 period.

Measure resistance between the two pins on the vehicle speed sensor.and more than 10 Ohms from the metal shell to either pin
VEHICLE SPEED SENSOR resistance should be between 800 and 1400 ohms

Removal

Disconnect the wiring from the harness.

Remove the sensor hold-down bolt and remove the sensor from the axle.

install:

Thoroughly clean the mounting surfaces. Make sure no dirt falls into the axle. Clean the magnetized sensor pole piece. Metal particles can cause sensor problems. Replace the O-ring.

Coat the new O-ring with clean engine oil.

Position the new sensor on the axle. It should slide into place easily. Correct installation will allow a gap of 0.005-0.045 in. (0.127-1.143mm).

Tighten the hold-down bolt to 25-30 ft. lbs.

84929087.gif

 

 
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Broncomanshane

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My abs light has been on since i purchased the truck before any of these speedo and trans shifting problems. The green and yellow wires that the new connector spliced into were like black and i assume they should be copper or metal. They were real cruddy even stripping them back. I dont think my vss is bad i think where the green wire came out of the heat shrink crimp deal caused it to get all coroded and nasty inside.... Can i go buy copper wire and re wire it all the way up to the firewall or no?

And also, i have no check engine light

Abs light was on prior to this problem

And my OD is not blinking on shift lever

 
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Broncomanshane

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Amd by gap, do you mean gap between the sensor and the diff housing? Because the o ring on the aftermarket prevents from

Sitting flush on differential

 

miesk5

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yo Shane,

You could run a 2 conductor copper cable  from VSS Connector all the way up to the 4WABS Module Connector.  I know of maybe two people had to do this due to prev owner hack jobs.

air gap is between the sensor "tip" and tone ring (aka exciter ring). It should be 0.38-0.51mm (0.015-0.020").  Diff cover would need to be removed.

I don't know if you tightened the vss too much;  again, you're working with aftermarket NON-FORD VSS units and quality/ tolerances are a big issue.

Take time and print out the 4-wheel Anti-lock Brake System  Diagnosis and Testing Link I posted and do the self test for the Codes (DIFFERENT FROM USUAL EEC IV TEST FOR DTCs).

 
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Broncomanshane

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Why two conductor wire? Each one of the two wires on connector attach to an individual copper wire making two (green and yellow) and they run up to nose of vehicle it looks like. Sorry if your getting frustrated i have never dealt with electrical and i sware those wires are not right. Im also going to swap out dash cluster to make sure psom is ok

 

Elmo

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that oring is a seal and when installed all the way in you will not be able to see the oring at all. it may take some **** and a bit of force to get the vss all the way in. once all the way in the bracket that the bolt goes through should be practically touching the diff housing.

 how about posting a pic of how you have it installed NOW. and a pic of the wires if possible.

 
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miesk5

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Why two conductor wire? Each one of the two wires on connector attach to an individual copper wire making two (green and yellow) and they run up to nose of vehicle it looks like. Sorry if your getting frustrated i have never dealt with electrical and i sware those wires are not right. Im also going to swap out dash cluster to make sure psom is ok
Yo Shane,  No problem, I understand; everyone learns more each moment; I have a lot more to learn.

Here is what I mean by a two conductor wire (cable)

two conductor wire.jpg

two insulated wires in a cable "jacket"

each wire has multiple strands of copper.

Parts stores and Wal Mart usually has a rack.

 

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