Engine Rebuild: What sensors, valves, sending units to replace?

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husmann

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Hey ya'll,

I'm getting a rebuilt 5.8L long block for my 1993 Bronco.  The engine was actually running fine prior to pulling it, except that it would not keep it's oil pressure up when driving (had about 235k miles).  I had no CELs or driveability issues.

When I transfer everything over to my rebuilt engine and put it back in the vehicle, what sensors, valves, sending units should I replace?  I'm talking about things like:  PCV valve, EGR valve, O2 sensor, TPS sensor, intake air temp sensor, etc.

Thanks,

Husmann

 

Seabronc

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My basic rule is if it ain't broke don't fix it.  Unless you just want to spend money on things that work perfectly fine, I'd keep the existing ones.  If it makes you feel better to replace the old ones, go ahead and do it.  However, that doesn't mean you won't get bad or weak new parts.  It's a 50/50 gamble whether you will have more issues with a new part than an old working part.

Good luck with your project,

:)>-

 

miesk5

96 Bronco 5.0
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yo Husman,

I'm w/Seabronc on non-Motorcaft/Ford replacement parts' quality

Look up your Maintenance Schedule in a Chilton Manual or call locals dealer's service for a print-out.

  This is for a 1996 Ford Bronco

Current Estimated Mileage: 235,000

Average Mileage:8,000 per Year
Driving Conditions: Normal


240,000 Mile Service Schedule
  • Inspect and lubricate spindle needle bearings (Auto Locking Hub 4X4)
  • Inspect and lubricate spindle needle bearings and hub locks (Manual Locking Hub 4x4)
  • Lubricate 4x4 front hub needle bearings
  • MEMO: Gas engine; Up to 5.0 quarts of oil
  • Change transfer case fluid
  • Inspect accessory drive belts, fuel lines, evaporative hoses and tubes
  • Inspect thermactor hoses and clamps
  • Lubricate front axle R.H. axle shaft slip yoke
  • Lubricate transfer case shift lever pivot bolt and control rod connecting pins
  • Inspect automatic transmission fluid level (if equipped with underhood dipstick)
  • Replace crankcase emissions air filter
  • Replace PCV valve
  • Lubricate caliper slide rails
  • Inspect complete exhaust system and heat shields
  • Change automatic transmission fluid
  • Rotate and inspect tires; check wheel end play and turning noise
  • Change engine oil and replace oil filter (See Owners manual for time based oil change intervals)
  • Replace engine air filter
  • Inspect battery and clean terminals
  • Inspect cooling system and hoses
  • Replace fuel filter
  • Lubricate all hinges and latches, door locks and door weatherstrips
  • Inspect brake pads/shoes/rotors/drums, brake lines and hoses, and parking brake system
  • Inspect and lubricate all non-sealed steering linkage, ball joints, suspension joints, half and drive-shafts and u-joints
  • Perform multi-point inspection (This is the self-test for Codes)
  • Inspect Accessory drive belt every 30,000 miles
  • Replace Coolant  every 36 months or 30,000 miles
  • Replace Rear axle lubricant every 100,000 miles, or if rear axle is submerged in water
=== 

  Although you do not have any Codes, you can use any down-time to test a few items;

MAP Sensor Testing, Symptoms & Overview; "...a multimeter that can read frequency is normally required to check the sensor’s output. But you can also use an ordinary tachometer because a tach can display a frequency signal. Here’s the procedure: Connect the two jumper cables the same as before, (see diagram in site) attaching each end terminal on the sensor to its respective wire in the wiring connector. If you want to measure engine vacuum so you can correlate it to a specific frequency reading, connect a vacuum gauge to a source of manifold vacuum on the engine, or tee the gauge into the MAP sensor hose. Turn the ignition ON and note the initial reading. The reading on the tachometer should be about 454 to 464 at sea level, which corresponds to a frequency output of 152 to 155 Hz. Start the engine and check the reading again. If the MAP sensor is functioning properly, the reading should drop to about 290 to 330 on the tachometer, which corresponds to a frequency output of about 93 to 98 Hz. No change would indicate a defective sensor or leaky or plugged vacuum hose..." a vacuum gauge to a source of manifold vacuum on the engine, or tee the gauge into the MAP sensor hose.
Source: by wellsmfgcorp.com

Idle Air Control (IAC) ValveThe idle air control valve (IAC valve) (9F715) is used to control engine idle speed and dashpot functions. The idle air control valve is mounted on the throttle body (9E926) and allows air to bypass the throttle plate. The amount of air allowed to bypass the throttle plate, will be determined by the powertrain control module (PCM) (12A650) and will be controlled by a duty cycle signal. CAUTION: Use of unapproved solvents may damage the IAC valve.  read more @ http://www.diesel-dave.com/vehic/manual/stj/stj3e047.htm  it's for a 96, but similar to your 93Intake Air Temp (IAT); (Air Charge Temperature [ACT] prior to 1992)

To test an ACT sensor you will need a volt meter. You can test the ACT by back probing the harness while reading the voltage returning to the EEC. Or you can removing the connector completely and test the resistance between the 2 pins on the ACT. The ambient temperature should be above 50�F (10�C) to receive acceptable input from the Air Charge Temperature (ACT) sensor during the KOEO and KOER Self-Test. To accomplish this, the engine should be at normal operating temperature.

see more @

http://web.archive.org/web/20101201014236/http://fordfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=29

Read about other sensors at http://web.archive.org/web/20101130224215/http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=10

and about Actuators at http://web.archive.org/web/20101130223312/http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=11

 
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husmann

husmann

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Seabronc and miesk 5,

Thanks so much for the input.  I think I'll keep most everything as is and see how it does when I put it all back together and fire it up.

Rebuilt engine was delivered today and have the old one broken down except oil pan, oil pump, and timing chain cover.  Have only broken about 4 bolts.  Exciting stuff.

Thanks,

Husmann

Will post pics when I get the chance.

 

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