1987 B2 starter

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jnathant

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I have a 1987 B2 and my starter makes a grinding sound when I start it the starter is new and my flywheel is fine what is causing it and how do I fix it? Can someone please help me thanks

 
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miesk5

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yo J,

WELCOME!
AS Bob advised on the differences in auto vs. manual trans starters.

Slow Cranking or a Grinding Noise; "... Problems with the negative battery cable is a major cause of starting problems in Ford, Lincoln, and Mercury vehicles. Bad battery cables can cause slow cranking or a grinding noise when trying to start an engine. ....

the wire connection inside the battery terminal connector corrodes easily. This will cause a voltage drop in the cable and result in low voltage being supplied to the starter.

You can check for voltage drop in the cable using a digital voltmeter. Connect the negative probe of the voltmeter to the negative battery post (not the battery terminal connector). Then connect the positive probe to the starter case and crank the engine. The voltage reading should be less than .5 volts. A higher reading means there is resistance in the cable or the battery terminal connector. Clean the cable end and the battery terminal connector and test again. If the voltage reading is still higher than .5 volts, replace the cable and the battery terminal connector..."
Source: by genco1.com

Starter Testing & Troubleshooting Troubleshooting Guide, Tech Tip/FAQ Comprehensive starter technical information including inspecting, testing and troubleshooting. 11/12/2013 http://www.revbase.com/TagTeam/client/Download.asp?FileID=1481687&DataID=261100&ViewID=2&OrderID=0

excerpt;

""Grinding", terrible grinding/grating noise as starter motor cranks engine.
NOTE: Some starter motors require shimming. A specific dimension "gap"  between the starter drive pinion gear and the flywheel ring gear is necessary.
Starter drive pinion gear not meshing with flywheel ring gear. Starter must be removed for further inspection of flywheel and pinion gear."

 

 
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jnathant

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I know my negative battery cable is tore up I have it electrical taped should I replace it?

Someone told me to go see if I got the wrong starter but when I got to auto zone they said they don't show a difference in starters for automatic of standard transmissions.

 

Bully Bob

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Torn (neg.) cable jacketing isn't necessarily a game stopper but over time the exposure can cause corrosion.

Check (call) another parts store to varify correct starter.

If it's a NEW starter.., compare it to the old one if it's still around.

What precipitated the starter change in the first place..?

Does the noise go away after the motor starts runn'n..?

 
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jnathant

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The old starter was replaced because it's teeth were grinded down and wasn't make connection with the flywheel anymore. Yes the noise goes away after the truck starts

The bronco has a 2.9L V6 auto Tranny

 

Bully Bob

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Ah-HA...!

That sounds like the flywheel is wrong or bad.., or  like  M5 mentioned.., a spacer is needed.

Or.., that  "bad"  starter was wrong & so is the new one.

---Point being, that ground down gear should never have happened.---

 
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jnathant

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Is there a easy way to tell if the flywheel is wrong or does it require me to take the tranny off?

 

miesk5

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yo,

Difference between Automatic & Manual Transmission; "...The locating circle on the face of a Ford starter is made to different dimensions for manual and automatic transmissions. This keeps a person from mixing the two starters up since they look similar. If the starter does not fit in the hole in the intermediate plate, this indicates that a person either has the wrong starter or the wrong intermediate plate. Do not enlarge this hole or grind on the starter to make it fit, instead change the incompatible part. Please note: Part # 9172 is for pre-1975 (auto) and pre 1980 (truck) manual transmissions ONLY. Part # 9162 is for automatic and 1975 and later (auto) and 1980 and later (truck) manual transmissions)..."
Source: by powermastermotorsports.com

Since you didn't mention that the starter did not fit without enlarging the hole...you can ignore this.

I checked a few on-line  parts stores and none show a difference between manual & Auto trans. starters;

I checked;

Jeff's

Rock Auto

O'Reilly;

Motorcraft - Starter

Part Number: SA746RM
UPC: 31508346932
Starter Motor

New Or Remanufactured: Remanufactured

Number Of Teeth: 9

Voltage (V): 12 Volt

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search/Starter/01920/C0330.oap?model=Bronco+II&vi=1106165&year=1987&make=Ford

http://www.fordparts.com does not list the starter now.

Ford Motorcraft® (fordinstallersupport.com) - Rotating Electrical (Starters, Alternators, Window & Wiper Motors, etc.), Ignition Components, Wire & Cable, Battery Cables, Windshield Washer Pumps, Wiring Harness Accessories, etc. Parts Catalog, Bronco/Ford truck & all Fords w/Ford Part Numbers, Illustrations & Cross References (54 MB pdf)

http://web.archive.org/web/20120922122202/http://www.fordinstallersupport.com/files/catalogs/ewc200.pdf

 see page 114

1987 Bronco II & Ranger 2.9 SA746RM  REMAN.

Starter Drive SD-302

Notice that this Fords catalog does not indicate a difference between auto or manual trans starters.

BUT does show a diff for

4.9L (300) MT Bronco, E/F Series SAV-738ARM

4.9L (300) AT Bronco, E/F Series SAV-734BRM

-------

 Do a google for SA746RM

 

 

miesk5

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I know my negative battery cable is tore up I have it electrical taped should I replace it?

Someone told me to go see if I got the wrong starter but when I got to auto zone they said they don't show a difference in starters for automatic of standard transmissions.
Yo J,

pull tape off and look for corrosion at batty connectors (and between conns and post)and where it grounds to frame or block;  look to see if there is corrosion between wire strands, esp. under insulation (cut off an inch or so)

Do you have a digital multimeter to do;

You can check for voltage drop in the cable using a digital voltmeter. Connect the negative probe of the voltmeter to the negative battery post (not the battery terminal connector). Then connect the positive probe to the starter case and crank the engine. The voltage reading should be less than .5 volts. A higher reading means there is resistance in the cable or the battery terminal connector. Clean the cable end and the battery terminal connector and test again. If the voltage reading is still higher than .5 volts, replace the cable and the battery terminal connector..."

Source: by genco1.com

 

Bully Bob

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Well.., we're starting in the "middle" here..!

To rec. quality answers here, we need ALL the info. you can give us about your rig.

That's what the signature (see mine below & left) is for.  If you fill in your info. it's more

likely you'll get more answers and correct answers.

For now, how long have you had this rig.?

Are you in contact or can you contact the prev. owner..?

What work/changes were done to this rig.  Especially the trannie, starter, flexplate (Flywheel), etc.

Were you operating this rig while the old starter was in there & did it sound normal

during starting..?  Who bought the current starter..?

I suppose it's poss. to remove the cover & count the flexplate teeth, or find a number on it.

Looking at M5's list.., it's still most likely the wrong starter.

 
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jnathant

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Well the bottom bolt on my starter happens to be the wrong size it would thread in but would never get tight I thought I had stripped it so I unthreaded it and all the threads were fine so I took the top bolt out and there was a noticeable difference in size so I bought a new bolt the right size and it started fine

 

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