95 air conditioning.

So now that my cruise is fixed I want to fix my a/c up. I currently have some brand of japense/chinese compressor with the original condenser and evap core . The air maybe get down to 50 degrees on the freeway and like 60/65 In town.. I took it to an a/c specialist who told me it was due to the cheap compressor and suggested I buy a factory one. So what im looking to find out is wether his sugestion is legit or if theres any difference and also ive heard mixed opinions on The reciver drier.. ive been told so long as you evacuate the system peoperly there no need to replace the receiver if you've had the line open and ive also been told anytime you open the line you need to replace it, so what is the correct action to take and what should a proper ac temp get down to when at full function?

Hey Ants,

Anytime you open a system the Accumulator/ rec.dryer should be replaced.  That is the industry standard.  I have seen guys that would not do the replacement if they had the system opened for a short time. They like to gamble...I do not.  On evacuating the system:  A good evac. getting the system at  28in-vac, and continuing vacuum for 1/2 hr will rid all the moisture from a normal size system.

However it will not remove the moisture that the desiccant in the Accum. rec/drier has absorbed, thereby reducing it's functionality.

A compressor is a pump.  The important thing is what pressures will it produce when operating under a full charge?  I'm not sure a new factory compressor will change your outlet temps.

From your info you get a 15 deg. decrease in temps when on the highway.  This could be the result of more airflow across the condenser. Lowering the condenser temp, thereby lowering evap pressure, which equates to cooler air in your cab.  Often on these Broncs the viscous fan clutch wears and it does not pull enough air across the condenser when the vehicle is driving slow or still.

Check that your condenser and rad is free of leaves, insects and other debris. If possible place a fan in front of the vehicle in your drive. Run the eng RPM around 1K.  Check if the temps go down with the additional fan pushing air through the condenser.  If they do your problem may be the fan clutch.  If you drive around town and live in a hot climate. (temps above 80 often) you may need an electric fan added to get more air flow.  R134 is not as efficient as the old R12..a drop of 15 to 20 deg. between ambient and interior is considered normal. 

That said, using an electric fan and aftermarket compressor in a system in good condition I have been able to get  temps 35-40 deg. lower than outside temps at highway speeds...in Florida.

Good Luck.

yo A,

As Ron advised!

also check Temperature Blend Door - if it is not functioning correctly it could mix  warm air through vents along w/cooled air.  Sometimes they get blocked open by debris such as leaf remnants, etc.

Vacuum System Diagram

 

Item Part Number Description 1 19A566 A/C Vacuum Reservoir Tank and Bracket 2 19A563 A/C Vacuum Check Valve 3 — Outside-Recirc. Door (White) (Part of Vacuum Harness) 4 18476 Heater Core 5 — Vacuum Harness Connector (Part of Vacuum Harness) 6 19980 A/C Control 7 — Panel Door (Blue)
(Part of Vacuum Harness) 8 — Floor Defrost Door
(Part of 18471) 9 — Temperature Blend Door (Part of 18471)

Blend Door Location in a 94; 80-96 similar; "...Probably the temp blend door is loose & flopping around on its own. The easiest way to see it is to fully lower the glove box, pull the ~8 screws from the heater core cover, & look inside to the L (driver's side). You'll see the cable & control lever (in top L of 2nd pic) as soon as you fold the glovebox down, so inspect it first. The 3rd shows the whole cover - it's the large section in the top center with tiny white numbers inked near its bottom edge. The cables are visible, too...."



This pic shows it from the engine side after removing the evaporator (don't do this).

Everything works as should my air just doesnt get cold. My mom 02 f150 get down the 32 while idling. It actually get so cold we ha e to tuen it down or off at times

ants95bronco said:

Everything works as should my air just doesnt get cold. My mom 02 f150 get down the 32 while idling. It actually get so cold we ha e to tuen it down or off at times

Click to expand...

If your air doesn't get cold, then everything isn't working as it should.

Blend door not operating properly, As m5 suggested.

Or the condenser isn't getting enough air flow, 

Or the Ac guy is correct on the compressor not providing the correct pressures,

Or he didn't get the AC charge correct,  What are the low side and high side pressures @ 1-1.2K rpm?

At that RPM is your Accumulator cold? How about the low side line into the compressor?

You can't condemn a compressor unless you know it is operating with a correct charge, and there is enough airflow over the condenser, because both effect pressures.

Its never gottwn cold from day one.. I had the compressor In another truck that had all new lines ebap core and condenser and it actually didnt even get as coldas it does now.. the blend doors work properly and there isnt an air flow problem

I think you answered your own original question.

Maybe so but I wanted to get some other opinions on it. Ido t really trust mechanic shops.I know some try to up sell parts you dont need and I dont know much about ac systems and like u said earlier I dont want to condemn the compressor if what this ac specialist said isnt true.. he told me the seals in the factory compressor are much better and compress the refrigerant better and told me mine wasnt to spec so thats why I asked if theres really a difference because ive heard mixed feelings about it.

yo ant,

FYI on some items you mentioned;

Section 12-00: Climate Control System, Service
1995 Bronco/F-Series Workshop Manual
SERVICE PROCEDURE

Suction Accumulator/Drier Replacement Guidelines

NOTE: Replacement of the suction accumulator/drier is not required when repairing the air conditioning system except when there is physical evidence of system contamination from a failed A/C compressor or damage to the suction accumulator/drier.

1. NOTE: When replacing the suction accumulator/drier, the procedure given here must be followed to make sure that the total oil charge in the system is correct after the new suction accumulator/drier is installed.
   
   Drain the oil from the removed suction accumulator/drier into a suitable measuring container. It may be necessary to drill one or two 12.7mm (1/2 inch) holes in the bottom of the old suction accumulator/drier to make sure that all the oil has drained out.

1. Add the same amount of clean new refrigerant oil plus two fluid ounces to the new suction accumulator/drier. Use only the oil specified for the specific vehicle being serviced.

---

Refrigerant System Tests

Poor air conditioning system performance can be caused by a plugged A/C evaporator core (19860). Airflow is restricted.

This condition can be detected by checking the center register discharge temperature. An abnormally low temperature indicates air is spending more time in the A/C evaporator core and is very cold when discharged, although the airflow volume is not enough to cool the vehicle properly.

Additional cause components are listed at the bottom of the chart for poor compressor operation or a damaged compressor condition.

These diagnosis charts provide the most direct and sure way to determine the cause of any problem in a poorly performing refrigerant system.

After servicing and correcting a refrigerant system concern, take additional pressure readings and observe the cycle rate while meeting the conditional requirements to be sure the concern has been corrected.

To diagnose a problem in the refrigerant system, note the system pressure (shown by the gauges) and the clutch cycle rate. Then compare readings with the charts.

• The system pressures are low (compressor suction) and high (compressor discharge).
• A cycle is the time the A/C clutch (2884) is engaged plus the time it is disengaged (time on plus time off).
• Cycle times are the lengths of time (in seconds) that the A/C clutch is on or off. Plus off, for one complete cycle.

To achieve accurate diagnosis results in the least amount of time use the following procedure and refer to the charts.

NOTE: The test conditions specified at the top of each of the charts must be met to obtain accurate test results.

read more  @  https://www.motorcraftservice.com/pubs/content/~WSSJ/~MUS~LEN/20/SSJC0019.HTM

ants95bronco said:

Its never gottwn cold from day one.. I had the compressor In another truck that had all new lines ebap core and condenser and it actually didnt even get as coldas it does now.. the blend doors work properly and there isnt an air flow problem

Click to expand...

ants95bronco said:

Maybe so but I wanted to get some other opinions on it. Ido t really trust mechanic shops.I know some try to up sell parts you dont need and I dont know much about ac systems and like u said earlier I dont want to condemn the compressor if what this ac specialist said isnt true.. he told me the seals in the factory compressor are much better and compress the refrigerant better and told me mine wasnt to spec so thats why I asked if theres really a difference because ive heard mixed feelings about it.

Click to expand...

Having had that info at the beginning of this thread I would have agreed with your mechanic.  Your compressor is most likely failing. However there may be other parts in the system that are also failing.  When a compressor is changed it is imperative that the accumulator, and orifice tube be replaced, and the system be evacuated for 30 min. 

That said I have had good luck with rebuilt compressors, and have had OEM compressors fail.  I would stay away from the parts with only  30 or 90 day warranties. There are good aftermarket comps. out there with the same warranty as OEM new parts. Look online. The last time I needed a comp it was for my Lincoln...got it online in a kit with all the other parts and the oil needed. I think everything was under $400.00....and came with a 1year warranty...just can't remember the name of the place.

Good Luck

yo,

Just recalled I had this in my old web site;

Air Conditioning Parts Catalog, Bronco & all Fords w/Ford Part Numbers & Illustrations

108MB PDF

http://www.fordinstallersupport.com/files/catalogs/ac200.pdf

COMPRESSOR, PULLEY, HUB, COIL & CLUTCH KIT —

see page 129 -130,

 5.0 & 5.8 FACTORY INSTALLED A/C

Remfd.Compr YCR-106RM

Ford's MSRP is $396.90

http://www.fordparts.com/Commerce/CatalogResults.aspx?y=1995&m=Ford&mo=Bronco#Search

On-line  is

$175.74 & FREE Shipping.

Only 1 left in stock.
Ships from and sold by Amazon.com

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C5FZ3U/?ie=UTF8&me=ATVPDKIKX0DER

$237.40 + Core Price: $20.00

FREE GROUND shipping on orders above:$200.00

http://www.thepartmonster.com/item.wws?sku=YCR-106RM&itempk=392772&mfr=MOTORCRAFT&weight=10

yo,

One more; by our Sponsor here;

Factory New AC Compressor

http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-30690-factory-new-ac-compressor.html

Item #30690 - New $175.00
1994-95 Ford Bronco
1994-95 Ford F150, F250, F350
All Engines Except Diesel
fits bronco and ford truck with all engines1994-95 bronco & truck 300,302,351w,460$175.00
 

Click Image to Zoom In.

Do you know if factory new means motorcraft or just new. I actually have another question. About how much hp does the ac take to run.. I have a 302 with a cam and mild head work with factory headers and 3 inch high flow exhaust with a flowsmaster. When I turn max ac on it seems like I go from driving a beast to a 4cyl. Idk if that normal or what.

"factory" can have a definition set by the manufacturer of the unit.   Look for a part described as OEM...Original Equipment  Manufacturer...and look for "Built to original factory specifications."  But remember you can get remanufactured units with the same warranty for 1/2 the price.

RE: HP loss...It varies from vehicle and system, but a rule of thumb is 3-10 hp.  Max Ac only opens the recirculating door to draw in air to be "re-cooled".  It could be drawing more hp if you have the fan on high.

That causes the alternator to require more HP.  but all told, you are not at more than maybe 15?  You could possibly have a vacuum leak to the rec. door when your control is on "Max"....the vac leak could contribute to a power loss, but you would think a code would be set.

Good Luck

I has a vacume leak and no code was sent but when the leak was repaired the engine did a lot better

yo E,

As Ron advised and the AMAZON unit is a FORD REMAN Compressor