1990 351w EFI Stalling and won't start!! Really moody engi

HI, 

I have a 1990 Bronco XLT 351w 5.8 EFI .  She was running fine when I first got her, but last week as she warmed up the idle got really rough and eventually stalled out, and wouldn't turn over for about 40 minuets. Jumping finally turned her over but the idle was still really rough. 

I found a disconnected vacuum line to the throttle body, replaced it and she ran for a bit then stalled out again, and didn't want to turn over. Next I reconnected the MAP sensor line (also unplugged for some reason) and threw on a new distributer cap and again she ran for a bit then stalled out and would start for a few days. I then replaced the fuel regulator and ignition coil and she started over first go (thought a little sluggish). She ran great for an afternoon but then died out yet again and refused to turn over even with a jump, then, just as the tow truck was pulling up she started and by the time we got her home she seemed to be idling normal. I'm really stumped as to what it could be, she sparks fine and the fuel pump starts and runs (bypassed the relay to test it). Any help would be appreciated - I'm planning on ripping out the whole fuel injector system and put in a 650 Holley paired with Edelbrock performer intakes but they won't get here before  need to use her again. 

yo Garrett,

WELCOME!

Try a Self Test for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)s by my pal, BroncoJoe19

http://broncozone.co...7&mode=threaded

The engine temperature must be greater than 50° F for the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) Self-Test

and greater than 180° F for the Key On Engine Running (KOER) Self-Test - if you can get it to start & run long enough to get engine to  180° F  (Normal Operating Temp)

Run it around and shift thru all gears incl Reverse. Then turn off all accessories/lights, etc.

Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic) or in Neutral for a Manual & release clutch.

Do Key On Engine Off (KOEO) portion first.

And Post em here according to:

KOEO

&

KOER if you can get it to start & run long enough to get engine to  180° F  

A  possibility (couldpop a code out) - as Seabronc once advised;

"95% chance that it is either the TFI module or the pickup inside the distributor.  I'd put my money on the pickup as that is a classic symptom of a pickup shorting out when it gets hot but works when cool..."

Vacuum Leak Test; On an idling engine check for vacuum leaks using a mechanic's stethoscope with the probe removed, or a ~3' garden hose section. Don't spray flammables on a running engine. MIESK5 NOTE; Also check: vacuum hoses; intake manifold gasket & throttle body; PCV line; vacuum reservoirs: EGR Sys Vacuum Tank & 2ndry air (coffee can); AC, heater, defroster, vent control ckt & vacuum tank (plastic ball type), under dash & lines to heat/blend/etc. doors; power brake booster; cruise control ckt, etc.... where applicable; ( BEWARE OF BELTS/PULLEYS, FAN AND HOT ENGINE

Source: by SEABRONC & miesk5  at http://broncozone.com/topic/23994-90-58l-getting-continuous-code-33-and-running-code-44/

see post #20

Fuel Pressure Specifications TSB 88-03-13 for 88 Bronco & F Series  (will verify later for your year)

FUEL PRESSURE ENGINE RUNNING 30-45 PSI  KEY ON, ENGINE OFF 35-45 PSI  by Ford

Local Parts stores could Loan you a FP gauge for refundable deposit

Maximum fuel pressure is obtainable at WOT or the vacuum hose removed from the fuel pressure regulator

After attaching the fuel pressure tester, run the fuel pump for 10 seconds. Check that the pressure is within specs, and it doesn’t leak-down more than 5PSI within 60 seconds after pump shutdown.

Pull vacuum line off  Fuel pressure regulator; any gas or aroma of gas, indicates diaphragm has ruptured, R&R FPR

http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/723833

Consider Ford Fuel Injection and Electronic Engine Control: How to Understand, Service and Modify, 1988-1993; & Ford Fuel Injection and Electronic Engine Control: How to Understand, Service, and Modify All Ford-Lincoln-Mercury Cars and Light Trucks, 1980 to 1987 by Charles Probst

avail @ BARNES & NOBLE, AMAZON, E BAY, ETC.

check this....its the pickup inside the distributor take off cap and rotor and look inside , mine was melted completely away and in sticky pieces at the bottom and sides...piece that comes out the side of the distributor was also soft and pulled away no seal left at all....i wish it was something i knew about before 5wks ago....this was 10 months of frustration wasted money and bad advice, a little bit of good but mostly conflicting ideas and “dont listen to this guy...hes an idiot” from everyone else who says the same about them....1 mechanic told me to check this, it had to be this, if everything i did and said was done and these are the symptoms, it is nothing else but this.....but to buy the whole distributor assembly because its easier than trying to install just the wiring harness and pickup....trust me, he was right and i found the guy whos shop im using here when i cant get the 99 miles to my uncles closest shop...

everything is fixed, alllllllll of it ......3min and solved if i saw this answer or suggestion 10mos ago....it kills me

Yo BroncOwned,

Welcome to the Zone!

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Post any TECH questions in a new thread in 80-96 Ford Bronco Tech Support section & keep it limited to one issue. Mainly so that old farts such as I don't get confused.

To show off your Bronco, such as any build-up or modifications post, in 80-96 Ford Bronco section.

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Here are some wiring diagrams (partial, 86 through 96) and Technical Service Bulletins, (80 through 96) @ http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd Just register for free.

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Click, My Profile

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Al