Sitting for 10 yrs cleaning gas tanks

genthree · Aug 12, 2013

1973 Bronco..... I am planning on dropping both tanks out and cleaning them out. What would you suggest as a solvent? Acetone, paint thinner? There is no gas in the tanks right now and I most likely won't put any in until we check the fuel system completely.....

Any good suggestions for check for leaks in the fuel lines?

Anyone installed one of the electric tank switches that is driven off the gauge selector switch?

mikeiam82 · Aug 12, 2013

i know there is a por-15 fuel repair system. I dont know what stores in the States sells por-15 products but oyu can go to por-15.com and see the products. Almost any store that repairs or rebuilds radiators could prob dip the tanks and re-seal them as well.

http://www.por15.com/FUEL-TANK-REPAIR-KIT_p_62.html

Bully Bob · Aug 12, 2013

"I am planning on dropping both tanks out and cleaning them out. What would you suggest as a solvent?"

What works best is muratic acid but.., it can be dangerous. 50/50 acid & water.

A better way is take them to your local radiator shop & boil them out for a small fee.

Be advised.., cleaning will expose any pin-holes that occur fr. sitting with moisture inside the tank.

Meaning inspect closely B4 re-installing.

"suggestions for check for leaks in the fuel lines?"

Most of the factory main lines are/were a black plastic. This stuff is bullet proof & lasts 100 yrs.

If not left open & exposed.., you can clean them out with a blast of air.., or even squirt water thru & then dry

with air.

"Anyone installed one of the electric tank switches that is driven off the gauge selector switch?"

I have the elect. switch over valve but, it's seperate from the dash gauge switch.

Either way works fine.., just a bit more wiring to hook it all up to the dash switch.

I'm a "filter freak" I have filters B4 & after the elect. switch/valve.., 1 B4 the fuel pump & 1 after.

They're all "see-thru" ..! And of course all new stubby rubber attach point hoses.

Safe to say I don't trust the fuel out there these days.... :-B

Seabronc · Aug 13, 2013

New tanks are not expensive and in the long run a much better option than trying to clean and seal an old one.

Good luck,

>-

Bloodwulf · Aug 13, 2013

Hey Genthree,

Im working on a 75 and when I pulled my rear tank off, It had rusted clean through by the top left bracket.

Ill be replacing it with this one...

http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/Sherman_Tank_23_Gallon

The stock tank being 13 gal means LOTS of fill ups and not much range. Increasing it to a 23 makes a lot of sense. I also chose this tank because if I decide to add a body lift kit later then I can simply loosen the bolts on the track and slide it up. I read the installation PDF on the website and its a very straight forward install.

http://www.tomsbroncoparts.com/product/rearmain-fuel-tank-23-gallon-wstraps-sending-unit-66-77-ford-bronco-new was the least expensive 23 gal tank I found but you can find the stock style tanks for under $200.

genthree · Aug 20, 2013

Dropped both tanks out. Main had lots of crap in it, pickup filter was plugged and float was gone.... Drained, rinsed, pea gravel, shake, vacuum, rinse, sand and paint. Going back in today.

Aux tank is a little different story, Drive to Tom's Broncos, hand over the AMEX, go home install new kit.

Bully Bob · Aug 20, 2013

" .....hand over the AMEX, go home install new kit."

No clue what this means...??? What is AMEX.? What kit..?

genthree · Aug 23, 2013

Sorry, American Express.... Toms bronco's has the tank, sender unit and hose all in one kit. I think that is the route I am going to go, once we get it running correctly.

genthree · Jan 14, 2014

Time for an update....

Got it running awesome!!! Started work on electrical..... Month later, done with electrical. Had a cocktail, started sanding on the body. Three months later, still working on body. Windshield frame removed, passenger floor removed, all bolted-on parts removed and stripped. Getting close to putting it back together.

I am going to "roll in" a bedliner type paint/material into the tub. I have some patching to do on the tailgate, replace the windshield frame, install the roll bar (Santa brought it to my son) then start shooting primer.

I have the grill off, that is a PITA to remove/strip/sand so I am going to prime it REAL GOOD. Hopefully, the last time it is ever off. Rattle canned the engine compartment to get rid of the stock "baby ****" yellow.

Having a BLAST!!!

Bully Bob · Jan 15, 2014

Don't use the "rough" liner..! It will cut your knees & elbos..!! And.., very hard to clean.

Best is the "orange-peel" type of coating.

Great UPDATE..!! Keep'um coming.

B

bigbluebronc · Feb 19, 2014

put a vinyle floor kit in with sound deadening. So you can wipe it out and it will still be quiet.

genthree · Feb 20, 2014

Body tub is all sanded. Doors, grill, windshield, tailgate removed and repaired. Floor pans replaced. All body defects bondo'ed and sanded. Pushing it out of the garage this weekend to pressure wash and scrub. Rolling back in the garage for paint... Primer inside and out. Rustoleum truck bed paint on the interior. Red exterior with black accents.....

Bully Bob · Feb 21, 2014

Welllllllll...!!!

Where's all the pics..?

I'll bet you have a traveling record of your work.., come-on-now..., give-m-up..!!!

genthree · Feb 24, 2014

Here are the update pics.... As you can tell, both sides of floor pans have had to come out. Holes from chrome are patched and ready for paint. I pushed it out this weekend and cleaned the garage. Will weld in the drivers side pan this weekend. Clean out the garage again and start laying down primer. I am going to build a PVC and visqueen garage inside of the garage to keep overspray at a minimum and shoot away. I am sure my wife won't mind

) ...

Once I get the primer on, I will weld up the rollcage (thank you Santa) and paint the interior. Then paint the tub, and body. Move it out of the garage and paint the rest of the body parts....

You can tell from the pics I had quite a bit of work on the tailgate, which turned out pretty well for my first attempt at welding.....

Still having a BLAST!!! Running out of money!!!!!

Bully- I was in Vegas last weekend and I was going to drop you a line, but got too busy with soccer stuff.... Maybe next time....

Seabronc · Feb 24, 2014

Looks like it is coming together.

Before you paint that cleaned up surface, use a product like Picklex http://picklex20.com/store/ to **** any micro-rust. Follow the instructions, one bottle will be enough to treat the whole surface of the truck if you follow instructions. There are other products and you can find them by doing a Google search on, "flash rust". If you don't **** any micro-rust it will eventually work it's way through the paint job. Believe me, even if you can't see it there is rust on the surface.

Good luck,

>-

Bully Bob · Feb 24, 2014

WOW..!!

Great work....., won't be long now....

/

As Seabronc stated.., do what you have to to protect your work. He knows, he's been thru what you're going thru.

genthree · Feb 25, 2014

Thanks for the tip... I will get some....

Bully Bob · Feb 27, 2014

BTW .., for the primer work.., you really don't need the plastic booth.

I did a couple vehicles outside (primer & paint coat) on the RV parking side of my house.

Started at 4:00 A.M. washing down the area then painted around 5:00 A.M. No wind, no mess, worked great.

Point being you'll prob. prime, sand, prime, sand, spot prime, etc. several times & that plastic booth will

be in your way for other projects all that time.

----Of course, this is all weather permitting.

genthree · Feb 27, 2014

I will take it under advisement.... I am resistant only due to the fact that I don't think that my wife/CFO won't agree with the whole "fixer upper" in view of the public concept... At least if it's in the garage I can shut the door....

Sitting for 10 yrs cleaning gas tanks

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