1974 Rebuild

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gandersonomaha

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Just purchased a 1974 to start a body off rebuild with my 14 1/2 year old son.  We figure we have a year and a half to get it finished, and after reading the discussions on this board, I think that will be cutting it close.  We have lots of questions going into the build, and fortunately, this board has been a huge help in answering many of them. 

Our Bronco was used to push snow until a couple of years ago and is essentially a bucket of rust.  We plan on replacing the entire tub, front clip, new doors and floor.  However, our biggest question is regarding the chassis.  Everything is absolutely rusted on the surface.  What is the best way to go about determining what is good and what needs replacing?  On the surface, it appears as though everything would need to be replaced, but a layer of rust can be deceiving.  We plan on taking everything apart and rebuilding the Bronc on two separate frames.  One frame will be a frame cart that we will do the body build on, and the other frame we will use to rebuild the chassis.

Again, as a newbie I have already learned a ton from this board, and look forward to becoming a Bronco veteran over the upcoming years along with my boy.

It is a 302 automatic.

Any input on first steps would be great....Thanks! 

 

Bully Bob

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Hi Ganderson.., welcome..!

Sounds like you  know what you're doing. :D/

"...and the other frame we will use to rebuild the chassis."

This leads me to believe you're buying a new frame (or at least a good used). That's a good idea

as the existing one may have some weak points.

".....but a layer of rust can be deceiving."

The front-n-rear axles (D-44 & Ford 9 inch) likely can be cleaned up. Many large parts

(misc. suspension parts, etc.) can be soaked at your local radiator shop boiling tank for a small fee.

After cleaning & inspection, you'll know what NOT to keep/use.

Sounds like a fun project..!

Enjoy, & keep band-aids handy.... ^_^ /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

B

 
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gandersonomaha

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Thanks for the suggestions....yes, we plan on purchasing two used frames, one for the body build and one for the chassis build.  Not sure if the term chassis fits here, but that is what we have been calling the axles, transmission, brakes, suspension, tires, etc...that we plan on building to set the body on.

I contacted a local radiator shop and he said they should be able to help with the axles and other suspension items.  Once we get the tear down completed and start dealing with the individual components, then we should be able to price out the various options for dealing with the surface rust...i.e. stripping ourselves, or having the radiator guys do it. 

Thanks again!

 

Bully Bob

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Chassis is correct. 

Use your judgement on the D-44 & 9inch.  You can scrape here-n-there to inspect, & be sure they're worth cleaning/saving.

It's also poss. you could hand clean/scrape/wire wheel., or even sandblast them W/O taking the guts out.

Check the used frames to be sure they're set up for a V/8. You may know you can buy new frames as well.

Have fun..!

 

mikeiam82

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Its relativley cheap to get the frames sandblasted then you can inspect them for cracks, holes and weak spots. If they are good its easy to paint some por-15 or get one powdercoated. I got my frame and front and rear diffs sandblasted for $150 then got them to powdercoat the frame for an extra $450. Now i could have gone to my local parts store and picked up the por-15 for cheaper but i wanted my frame to last. Now keep in mind that was my price up here in Kelowna BC Canada and we pay a serious "sunshine Tax"  on everything just to live in the Okanagan valley.

 

Seabronc

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This is what the rear of my frame looked like when I was restoring my Bronco http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/855346 .  I used undercoat after treating the metal and then sealed the undercoat to make it tougher. 

As mentioned above, powder coat would be the best option. 

Just some comments on POR15, I like it and use it.

I didn't use POR15 on my frame because i've had mixed experience with it.   I have had it get chipped and then moisture must have gotten under it.  The result was that I could peal it off in strips where that happened.  It is possible I messed up with the prep prior to using POR15.  It is hard to work with and once you open a can of it you need to use it up or it gets hard, (once exposed to air POR15 starts a curing process that can be sowed by resealing the lid but not stopped).  Also, if you get it on anything you care about, like your cloths, it will not come off. That also goes for your skin,  if you do get it on you, it is on you untill it gradually wears off.  After learning the hard way, I used a full body Tyvec painting suit and gloves when treating a surface with it. 

A place that generally seems to rust the most on the frame is around the body mount holes in the frame and brackets.  You can get repair kits that can be welded over the holes that may be in bad shape, (those are available from Jeff's http://broncograveyard.com/bronco?search=%22body+bushings%22 or LMC Truck http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/FBR/full.aspx?page=20 .  However, I was not able to find a source for new body mount brackets.  That is not a problem as you can easily fabricate them.

Good Luck on your project,

:)>-

 
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jeffbro

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u might check out Rustbullet,. used the Black Shell on my frame...so far it's doing well

 

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