Headers or Stock manifolds

I have noticed that my drivers side manifold has a crack in it that leaks when cold. I also have every service record on my bronco since it was new from a Ford dealer in california, It looks like the manifolds have been replaced a few times over the years, So I was wondering what the consensus would be amongst you guys, would you replace the drivers side manifold with a stock unit which is a simple install or install shorty headers, which I dont really look forward to doing the passenger side lol.

Would headers effect my emissions? Thanks for reading my rambling post and I look forward to hearing from you guys who always steer me in right direction.

Hey J,

I would go with the shorty headers, but that's just me. There would be no effect on your emissions as long as you replace your O2 sensors back where they originally were. ( don't know your year, to know if you have them in the manifolds.)

I know there are shortys available with O2 bungs already welded in.

Good Luck

yo J

Since pass side is diff in an 89 and most other years, I'd bust $ for a stock driver side

This won't help much, but fyi and posterity;

Installation pics, Gibson in an 89 5.0

Source: by stucknjax

Installation pics, Summit® (PaceSetter) Shorties in an 89 5.8

Source: by BikerPepe` (4xPepe, Stone Bronco, Sold)

More Pic & Installation (for 88 and 90 years, etc.) LINKs at my archived site;

http://web.archive.org/web/20110704075244/http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=573

Had the same issue, some time back, with a Chevy 305. It (pass. side man.) came out in 3 pieces. Swapped in a boneyard unit & on my way. (cheap-n-easy)

If you're happy with the performance as is.., stick with it. /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

Thank you guys, im pleased with the current performance Im leaning more towards just installing the drivers side with a stock replacement and call it a day for under 80 bucks, easier job,and cheaper do the headers make that much of a difference in throttle response or tone?

yo J,

Headers would help a bit on the performance side, but you also would need more on the exhaust, cat converter, as well as Intake - Filter, Manifold mods;

====

Performance Comparison Tests in a Centurion 460; miesk5 Note, Results are Comparable to Tests in other Ford Engines

Source: by FOUR WHEELER Magazines Project M.P.G. via by performanceunlimited.com

http://performanceunlimited.com/projectmpg/results.html

Ok so im going to install a replacement manifold, should I get them nice and hot before trying to loosen the manifold bolts? or soak them over night first? The job is simple, its the fear of snapping off a bolt that freaks me out

Good question..,

In many cases, manifold bolts come loose easy BUT, the "one bolt rule" often rears it's ugly head. (That rule is.., if there's 10 bolts, 9 will come loose) :angry:

The problem is.., it's not likely any penetrant will get to the threads. If one can, it would be PB BLASTER. Auto parts has it so give a try.

I've always done them cold. Manifold bolts are pretty tough material.

yo J,

As Bob advise & you know so well, penetrating fluid is your best friend.

FYI & for Posterity

I use auto 50 - 50 mix of automatic transmission fluid and acetone (borrowed from my better-half's nail polish remover)

"April/May 2007 issue of Machinists Workshop.

Machinist's Workshop magazine actually tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts. Significant results! They are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist, Bud Baker.

Don't forget the April 2007 "Machinist's Workshop" magazine comparison

test.

*They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with

the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a

"scientifically rusted" environment.

*Penetrating oil ..... Average load*

None ..................... 516 pounds

WD-40 .................. 238 pounds

PB Blaster ............. 214 pounds

Liquid Wrench ..... 127 pounds

Kano Kroil ............ 106 pounds

ATF-Acetone mix....53 pounds

*The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission

fluid and acetone.*

*Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one

particular test. Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all now

use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is about

as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price.

The results have been widely quoted on the internet, but the picture in the magazine allegedly shows power steering fluid and not ATF, and according to lbender (who claims to be the author) in this thread, it actually was power steering fluid (mixed with acetone) that they tested with. Lbender begins participating in the thread on its second page.

TIPS by RFR;

" will make a long story short: I discovered a "leak" in the LH or driver's side exhaust manifold. I knew about it when I bought the truck - the seller told me a manifold bolt had broken off. I removed the manifold and proceeded to remove the broken stud in the head. It went rather smooth - drilled a pilot hole and used a bolt-out tool to extract the bolt. In most of these Ford trucks, the bolts do not go all the way to the back of the tapped hole and allows you to drill completely through the bolt shaft and therefore "fill" the back side with penetrating oil. Allowing that to soak for a few hours makes the extraction of the stud a lot easier. I ran a tap into the head to make sure all the threads were good - and there was no damage to report.

purchased 4 studs from the Ford dealer, and the remainder bolts and nuts from a bolt supply house. The bolts are class 8. The bolt supply house also provided the studs needed for the output to exhaust pipe coupling.

Part 3: I decided I was going to "gasket" the manifold for added leak protection. I bought the Fel-Pro set for a 302 and lo-and-behold they did not fit the manifold. Yes, the manifold was from another vehicle !!! It seems (my theory) that the previous owner (dufus-extraordinaire) had his LH manifold CRACK as they were quite common to do in many of the earlier Ford trucks. Instead of obtaining the correct and original manifold he put one on from a later model. It was slightly too long - and hence broke the last stud and stripped a couple short bolts putting it on - hence he sold the truck to the people that finally sold it to me. Mystery solved!

Part 4: I ventured to a local SGI salvage yard and bought another manifold that they claimed was the one for a 1990 Bronco/F150 302 engine. When I picked it up, I noticed it looked EXACTLY like the manifold I had just removed. In other words, it did not have the cast ridges in it. It also had the same casting number cast into it. I also noticed the last two holes had been elongated. (???) I bought it for 80 dollars (CDN) and took it home - it was indeed the same type as the one I took off. THEORY: It did come off another Bronco - another idiot doing the same stupid things as the idiot that previously owned MY truck. Is there no end to these morons out there? Some people do NOT deserve to own a vehicle - esp. A wonderful creature like a Ford Bronco. I took the manifold back to SGI and got my cash back and warned them of the mistake.

Rambling aside: I purchased a NEW non-OEM (strengthened material to prevent the common cracking problem on OEM casts) for 49.99 USD from 1A Automotive in the US. It arrived today (June 4th) and I promptly installed it. Everything went smooth as silk.

I installed the Fel-Pro gasket ( and this time it fit ! ) and snugged her all down. I put the remainder of the engine back together and connected the battery negative terminal. The moment of truth - will it start? Will it run? Will it leak? What about the oilpan work? Will IT leak? What about the valve cover work? Will THEY leak? I turned the key - and much to my surprise - the quiet engine ran like a top - smooth and quiet. No leaks discovered as of yet - but I will keep a watchful eye on them in the next few weeks to ensure that all is as it should be..."

That will help me immensely, thank you for that info, you guys here are a wealth of knowledge. Im going to make that mixture and let it soak, and apply it for a few days, then tackle the manifold job, no rush since I only drive her once a week

well great news, my manifold should be delivered to me by tomorrow, I already have the old one off, the bolts were all pretty loose actually, and looking at my work orders that the original owner gave me, a Ford dealer replaced that same manifold under warranty back in 1991. Anyways, the heat shield for the spark plugs was a PITA and did not want to come out and got bent pretty good. is that mandatory to put back in? if so I will try to straighten it out the best I can and reinstall it with the new manifold

"is that mandatory to put back in?"

Ya.., kinda, it keeps the plug wires/boots from cooking.

Thank you Bob, I was able to straighten the shield out and reinstall it. I forgot to mention that the manifold came out in 2 pieces,they are such **** poor quality and it was stamped made in vietnam, just like the Dorman OE replacement unit I installed, hopefully I get a few years out of this new unit. So nice to not have that exhaust leak and now I can actually hear my flowmaster muffler haha

Great..!

Good to see you're back on the road. And.., thanks for the feed-back.

That's rare these days & it sure helps us all to know if the right cures/repairs/suggestions are being offered up. :-B