95 Bronco XLT 5.8L lift kit suggestions and fuel guage problem

ok so i am new to the forum and need some help. i own a 1995 bronco 5.8L XLT. i have really wanted a lift kit and finally got some money save up to get one. i dont know anyone else with a lifted bronco so i didnt know where to turn for suggestions.

also my fuel gauage doenst work most of the time. what should i look to do before i try to take it to a mechanic. Thanks for the help.

as far as looking for a lift kit what you really need to do is think about a couple of different things.

1. Why are you getting the lift. for looks? for off road capability?

2. with the first question in mind . you need to think about the different ways and how much to lift, and what your budget will allow.

now there are alot of different kits out there, but one thing they all have in common is the 4" lift is always within about $100 of the 6" lift of the same brand almost across the board. Same brackets different springs or spacers.

so let us know how you plan on using your bronc and we can help you as best we can.

two great sites for parts are broncograveyard.com , and lmc truck.

brands to look into are

BDS , Skyjacker ,and Roughcountry

broncograveyard has a a good selection of lift kits as well.

For the fuel gauge, an intermittent circuit usually means either a bad ground or a bad connection, I would check your plug on your gas tank first then look into the gauge itself after.

yo J,

Fuel Gauge Testing in a 95; "There is a yellow wire with a white tracer coming off the fuel sender to the gauge The easiest way to ck the gauge and wiring is to disconnect the y/w wire and ground the wire on the dash side of the wire. If you can slide your hand up on top of the tank and disconnect the pump and ground out the y/w wire turn the key on and watch the gauge, if the gauge goes up (FULL), suspect; open circuit (broken wire; unplugged connector; corroded terminal; burned sender) on the Y/W wire..."

Testing & Connector Pin-Outs in 92-96 Bronco (87-96 F-series & Bronco similar); Sender Range: 16 Ohms Empty; 160 Ohms Full; "...

gauge that pegs past full indicates an open circuit (broken wire; unplugged connector; corroded terminal; burned sender) on the Y/W wire.

gauge that pegs past empty indicates a short to ground (pinched to the frame, body, or dash supports) on the Y/W wire, OR a sunk float.

gauge anywhere in between that doesn't move indicates an open circuit (blown fuse; corroded terminal) on the power (battery) side of the gauge OR a bad instrument cluster ground at C251 pin 9. The terminals of C251 (& C250) are known to corrode & lose contact. Polish both the connector pins AND the film circuit pads with brown paper or a pink eraser. The larger version of C441(WPT454) was used until 93. The level sender can usually be disassembled & repaired by bending the wiper arm inside the plastic housing to apply slightly more force..."

Source: by Steve @ http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/744437

Thanks guys. For my lift I'm thinking I want a 4" and something that will give me more off road capability s but is still comfortable on road.