Shifting issues

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WileE7

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When I start my bronco the idle starts and stays at nearly 2000 rpms when I put it in gear the rpms will drop below 500 and the engine will shut off or it will drop down and then go right back up to 8 or 900 rpms. When I'm driving I never start in 1st gear always 2nd when i get up to 15-20 mph it shifts from 2nd to 3rd it will no go over 2000 rpms when it shifts from 2nd to 3rd. I can put manually put it in first and it drives fine. I can shift through all of the gears manully but if I just put it in drive it always starts out in second. I changed the vacuum modulator I've been told to look at the kickdown cable or to clean the governor and the valve body. I have no idea where the governor is located and I wanted some good advice before i started spending money.

 

miesk5

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yo WILE,

Governor Location in Parts Break-Out Diagram w/Nomenclature

Source: by Chris B (Blue, bronco boy) at http://chrisb.users.superford.org/Misc/Transmission%20Illustrations/Trans_Breakdown_03.JPG

Did fluid come out of the vacuum line when you removed modulator? if so, then the modulator's diaphram was ruptured

Is vac line ok with no leaks?

Check for codes yets? as well as vac leaks?

see Bro0ncojoe's code and leak tests @ http://broncozone.com/topic/14269-code-reader/page__pid__74587__mode__threaded

I think I have the C6 shift linkage Links in my site @ http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=786

sorry for rushing; need to roll now

GL with those checks!

 
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WileE7

WileE7

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NO fluid from the line when I changed the Modulator and I didnt think to check for codes since the CEL never came on

 

miesk5

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yo W,

Check for codes anyway; The DTC associated with a fault is stored in Keep Alive Memory (KAM). If the fault is no longer present, the light will turn off and the vehicle will return to the normal vehicle strategy. The DTC stored when the light was on is kept in Continuous Memory for the next 80 warm-up cycles (40 cycles on some applications) and then erased. This Continuous Memory DTC can be accessed by running the Key On Engine Off Self-Test

Some faults may not light the CEL such as those for Manual Lever Position/Transmission Range (MLPS/TR) Sensor

 
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WileE7

WileE7

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yo W,

Check for codes anyway; The DTC associated with a fault is stored in Keep Alive Memory (KAM). If the fault is no longer present, the light will turn off and the vehicle will return to the normal vehicle strategy. The DTC stored when the light was on is kept in Continuous Memory for the next 80 warm-up cycles (40 cycles on some applications) and then erased. This Continuous Memory DTC can be accessed by running the Key On Engine Off Self-Test

Some faults may not light the CEL such as those for Manual Lever Position/Transmission Range (MLPS/TR) Sensor

I drove this morning and the CEL light comes on for a second then shuts off I'll check today to see what codes I get. I did some research and found out that my Bronco originally had an AOD tranny in it I currently have a C6 should I be having these issues because of the swap?

 
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miesk5

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yo W,

ok, the AOD and C6 should be good in relation to the EEC.

Except that there should have been a change to the connectors to transition between AOD NSS & C-6 NSS. Weatherpack recommended; if reverse lights and starter turns over ok, then it is prob wired up correctly.

C6 Description & Operation, Adjustments, Diagnosis & Testing (partial), Disassembly & Assembly, Parts Break-Out Diagram, Hydraulic Control System Diagram, Removal & Installation & Specifications

Source: by thedieselfiles @ http://www.thedieselfiles.com/Ford/C6%20Automatic%20tranny.pdf

Governor R&R on Page 17-10-17;

=======

Erratic Shifting:

• Shifter Misadjusted

• Kickdown Rod Misadjusted (Make sure kickdown rod or cable is not binding)

• Low Fluid Level

• High Fluid Level

• Vacuum Line Cracked or Leaking (Make sure the vacuum hose to the modulator is not routed where it could be kinked or pinched) Check vacuum atmodulator

• Valve Body Bolts Loose

• End Plate Bolts Loose

Late Hard Shifts:

• Vacuum Line Cracked or Leaking

• Modulator Damaged

• Kickdown Linkage Misadjusted

Will Not Shift:

• Valve Body Bolts Loose

• End Plate Bolts Loose

One Gear Only:

• Shifter Not Engaged Properly - Shift Linkage Adjustment Points in 82-86 Source: by Chilton

Early Soft Shifts:

• Modulator Rod Missing or Incorrect

Slips:

• Low Fluid Level

• Pressure Regulator Valve Assembly Improperly Installed.

• Booster Valve Installed Improperly.

• Valve Body or End Plate Bolts Loose.

Overheating or Foaming at Dipstick Tube or Breather:

• High Fluid Level

• Cooler Plugged

• Cooler Insufficient

 
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WileE7

WileE7

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My reverse lights don't come on I'm going to check for codes this weekend and I'll let you know what I get. I took it to autozone and they could get their code reader to work. I used to have a website for a self diagnostic test. Do you know of one?

 

miesk5

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yo W,

My reverse lights don't come on

Back-Up Light Switch (also referred to as Neutral Safety Switch (NSS) & Park/Neutral Position (PNP) Wiring Diagram (Partial) & Color Codes in an 89 5.8 C6; "...The lights in the back you are asking about are called Backup lights. A diagram of the circuit is attached. Do you have a volt meter? If you do, then turn the key to run and place the transmission in ® reverse. At the lamp socket check for 12 volts, (run a jumper lead all the way to the battery (-) rather than depending on the body metal for your ground). If you have 12V at the center contact in the light socket, you have ab ad ground. If you do not have 12 volts at the center contact of the light socket, go back to the Pink with black stripe wire at the transmission switch. If no 12 volts there check the other side of the switch (purple with orange stripe). I think you get the idea. When you get 12V the problem is between that point and the lamp socket. It could be either a corroded contact in a connector, a broken wire or the switch. I did not include the fuse because it also provides power for the turn signals..."

Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums http://broncozone.com/topic/21322-more-electrical-issues/page__gopid__111775entry111775

=========

I took it to autozone and they could get their code reader to work.

Did ya mean they could Not get the code reader to work

or,

The famous No Code situation where some people say the scan tool won't work on your Bronco, so get lost...BUT, usually ends up being user error

by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at http://oldfuelinjection.com/?p=44

To help you with some of the tests that Ryan alludes to, here are his;

EEC Connector Pin Diagram

http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=17644&stc=1&d=1313769200

and the EEC PIN LEGEND

http://oldfuelinjection.com/truckpinouts.html

and;

Scan Tool Won’t Initiate Self-Test Due to Poor Grounds, Corroded Wiring, etc.; read more on how to Ground the STI & Proceed w/ Test; miesk5 Note; Same for DIY test w/out scan tool; run ground wire from Self-Test Input (STI) to battery ground on a Clean body ground

poor-ground.jpg

Source: by Jeremy M (Big '92, jermil01)

===========

I used to have a website for a self diagnostic test. Do you know of one?

Yes,

see Broncojoe's self diagnostic test and vacuum leak tests @ http://broncozone.com/topic/14269-code-reader/page__pid__74587__mode__threaded

GL!

 
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WileE7

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I ran the self diagnostic test and these are the codes I got 67 67 1 63 34 29 63 34 29.

 

miesk5

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yo W,

DTC 67; "..One poss is that the NSS (or also called the MLPS) was ok...or connector was/is bad/corroded; or AC was left on, or transmission was in gear during the Self Test..." read more

Source: by miesk5 at http://fordfzone.com/topic/5375-1990-code-help/

DTC 63 Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) voltage too low; Bad or misadjusted TPS, TB base idle mis-set; binding throttle cable. Suspect open TP sensor, or wiring/harness issues such as connector/terminal corrosion, etc. Key off. l TP sensor disconnected. Key on, engine off. Measure voltage between VREF circuit and SIG RTN circuit at the TP sensor vehicle harness connector. Is voltage between 4.0 and 6.0 volts? Yes, REPLACE TP sensor. RERUN Quick Test. No, Key off. RECONNECT all components. GO to Pinpoint Test Step C1. C1 CHECK VEHICLE BATTERY POWER CIRCUIT; Key off. Disconnect Powertrain Control Module (PCM). Inspect for damaged or pushed out pins, corrosion, loose wires, etc. Service as necessary. Install breakout box and connect PCM to breakout box. Key on, engine off. Measure voltage between Test Pin 37 at the breakout box and SIG RTN circuit in the Data Link Connector (DLC). Note voltage. Measure voltage across battery terminals. Note voltage. Are both voltages greater than 10.5 volts, and are both voltages within 1.0 volt of each other? Yes, GO to C2. No Key Off, RECONNECT sensor (if applicable). GO to B1. I don't have the B2 nor C2, yet. BOB test pins numbers are most often same as EEC pins numbers. A NON-Ford NEW TPS failure is sad to say, a common nuisance; I had a new switch fall apart in my hands recently, as well as other crapola parts from CH... Also see TSB 89-14-07 TPS Screws; Read More & See Diagrams; MIESK5 NOTE, as I mentioned in another thread here; In place of the breakout box, go to the EEC CONNECTOR's pin(s) instead

Source: by miesk5 at Ford Bronco Zone Forums http://broncozone.com/topic/14269-code-reader/page__st__40

eec04.gif


EEC IV Connector Pin Depiction Pic by Ryan M (Fireguy50)

& his Pin Legend

http://oldfuelinjection.com/truckpinouts.html

 

miesk5

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yo W, Part 2

29.

DTC 34 - EGR voltage above closed limit - Failed sensor, carbon between EGR pintle valve and seat holding the valve off its seat. Remove the EGR valve and clean it with carbon remover. Prior to re-installing see if you can blow air through the ****** side of the EGR by mouth. the egr is not closing properly which can cause detonation. remove the egr and clean off any carbon built up on it with carb cleaner and a brush if necessary.

Source: by miesk5 at Ford Bronco Zone Forums

DTC 34; Next isn't listed by anyone for the 34 Code, but is a good test anyway to rule the EVR out & is a simple multimeter test; The EGR Vacuum Regulator (EVR) controls the opening and closing of the EGR valve. The EVR is an electromagnetic solenoid and should have between 20-70 ohms resistance between the pins. +12 volts should be constant on one side from the EEC Relay, the computer controls the ground signal when EGR flow is needed. When the EGR Vacuum Regulator (EVR) is off, both ports vent slowly to atsmophere. To test it mechanically check to see if vacuum is present at the EGR valve with the electrical connector unplugged from the EVR. The top port should not have vacuum! Because that would open the EGR at the wrong times. With everything connected and the engine running ground out the pin 33 side. The EGR vavle should open and the engine RPM should change.

Source: by miesk5 at Ford Bronco Zone Forums

Wiring Diagram in a 90

1990-bronco-eec-schematic.jpg EVR is shown as EGR Control Solenoid DG to EEC Pin 33

Source: by SeattleFSB (Seattle FSB)

Ford EGR systems DO NOT engage when: engine is cold; engine is at idle; engine is at WOT; At low ambient temps (water vapor from the exhaust can freeze on the throttle plate); The EVR is a normally closed solenoid, which means that when it is de-energized, the position of the disc allows for maximum venting to the atmosphere (resulting in negligible vacuum flow to the EGR valve)

DTC 29 & 452 Pin-Point Test in a 94; DTC 29 indicates that during the last 80 warm-up cycles, the PCM detected an error in the PSOM output signal. DTC 452 indicates the PCM detected an error in the PSOM output signal during the last 40 warm-up cycles. Possible Causes: Damaged Rear Anti-Lock Brake System (RABS). Damaged PSOM. Damaged harness circuits. Damaged PCM.

 

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