wont turn over when engine is hot

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ryanapfel

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Anytime i go to start my bronco when its cold (like i havnt driven it in a while, not cold temperature) it starts up strong with no problems. After driving for a few mins, if i turn the truck off amd try to start it, it turns over REALLY slow to the point where it wont start. I have to wait 10-15 mins for it to cool off before it will start again. Iv replaced the starter solenoid, battery, and starter. Any ideas? Thanks.

 

Krafty

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check your grounds and starter cable/connections. could be causing a low connectivity situation when everything has a chance to heat up and expand.

 
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ryanapfel

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Iv changed the starter and solenoid to try to fix the problem, when i did, i made sure everything *** tight. Ill check again though

 

Rons beast

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The main ground to the engine can appear to be tight, but the conductivity, can be poor. The copper in the cable can be corroded, as well and not be visable, so it looks like a good cable. Do your self a BIG favor and change the ground cable.

Don't try the battery end clamp replacement...it's a wast of time. Get a good new cable and be done with it.

Good Luck

Happy 4th!

 
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miesk5

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yo, As Ron advised

and have you checked for Codes yet?

I believe I gave you this

a Self Test for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)s by my pal, BroncoJoe19

http://broncozone.com/topic/14269-code-reader/page__pid__74587__mode__threaded

The engine temperature must be greater than 50° F for the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) Self-Test and greater than 180° F for the Key On Engine Running (KOER) Self-Test.

Run it around to heat the engine up and shift thru all gears incl Reverse. Then turn off all accessories/lights, etc.

Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic) or in Neutral for a Manual & release clutch.

Do Key On Engine Off (KOEO) portion first.

Look Codes up in my broncolinks.com site using the new Search function.

And Post em here according to:

KOEO

&

KOER

Do this before you disconnect Battery; do it now and then run the engine until "...After driving for a few mins, if i turn the truck off amd try to start it, it turns over REALLY slow to the point where it wont start..."

probsthardstartlongcrank.JPG

 
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ryanapfel

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Changed the engine ground wire. It was basicly stripped. All metal all the way down. Didnt help. Same thing. Lol. I guess the last thing to try is the starter wire right? I cant think of anything else. I guess i would have to bring it in somwhere and have them figure it out

 

Rons beast

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If the pos. wire to the starter is as old as the ground, there is a very good chance it is losing voltage. I would change it and make sure the surfaces where the starter bolts to the block are clean and not covered in grease or oil, it can seep between the mating surfaces and make for a bad ground.

Also check that there is enough space between the started and the exhaust. The heat from the exhaust can transfer to the starter and ruin conductivity. Some of the starters had a heat shield. I don't know if your truck came with one, but it some others much more knowledgable than me may be able to tell us.

Good Luck

 
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ryanapfel

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IV checked everything for loosness. Replaced every wire. I read on another forum that some engines need a heat shield on the starter. I'm sure it womt hurt to put one on so I guess I'll do that. Along with some exhaust wrap. That's my only idea left.

 

Krafty

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what I would have done a while ago is test the connector on the starter when it is turning slowly ( having a friend turn the key) and get a voltage reading to the starter. V= battery voltage then starter is bad (or bad engine to chassis ground). if V < battery voltage then its wiring going to the starter; if that is the case then you just keep testing going back towards the battery until you get the proper cause of the problem.

 
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miesk5

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Have you checked for codes yet?

It could be the Ignition Control Module or the Ignition Coil or the Profile Ignition Pickup Sensor (PIP Sensor)

If you need how to test them all, ask.

 
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ryanapfel

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I replaced all wires. All grounds. And still had no luck. So I got some exhaust wrap. A metal heat sheild, and insulated sleve for the starter. I haven't taken a long drive with it. But it seemed to fix the problem. I couldn't drive around the block before without itnot starting after and it did that fine.

IV been real busy but I'll take it for a real drive tommarro and let u know conclusivly

 
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ryanapfel

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So i took it for a night ride up into the hills. Kind of werid thing. I rode it to the top of the mountain (about a 20 min drive, wayyy long enough to have the problem im having) got to the top. Turned it off. Started right back up! I did a lil dance and went home. Parked it. Tried to start it again and it wouldnt start again! Im out of ideas now

 
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miesk5

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Is the starter turning the engine over slowly or as normal when it won't start?

Or not at all?

Do a Self Test for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)s by my pal, BroncoJoe19

http://broncozone.com/topic/14269-code-reader/page__pid__74587__mode__threaded

read it and report back

Is the the Check Engine Light (CEL) ON while driving?

Check Engine Light (CEL) comes on when the electronic engine control system is not working properly. The check engine warning indicator comes on briefly when the ignition switch lock cylinder is turned to ON, and should turn off when the engine starts. If the check engine warning indicator does not come on when the ignition switch lock cylinder is turned to ON or if it comes on while the vehicle is moving, the system is malfunctioning

If the CEL does not light up at all when starting it; then suspect that someone removed it.

 
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ryanapfel

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ill have to do the test later. i wont be home for a lil. but it turns over extreamly slow. never does it not turn over at all or turn over at a normal speed but not start. just very slowly.

 

miesk5

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yo RYAN,

ok

SLOW cranking is battery, terminals, cables, relay, or starter

pull battery and have it load tested for free;

Dead Cell; "... Sometimes, a battery will have just one cell go bad or short out. When this happens, the battery will seem fully charged, but fail to start the car, or it may start the car right after charging, but then fail to start the car an hour or more later. If this happens measure the S.G. in each cell. If one cell has a lower S.G. than the rest by a significant amount, replace the battery - there is no way to fix this problem. This condition most often happens to batteries subjected to lots of vibration, and sometimes to new and almost new batteries that have a bad cell from the factory..."

Source: by Gordon via miesk5

shade tree tips by Mark Salem

Headlights begin white and bright, when you try to start the engine, they dim to nothing or almost nothing then SLOWLY come back up to white and bright. This usually means the battery is bad and incapable of handling a huge request for power to crank the engine over.

Headlights begin white and bright, when you try to start the engine, they dim to nothing or almost nothing then as soon as you let go of the key, the headlights QUICKLY bounce back to white and bright. This usually means the starter is bad or the engine is locked up.

 
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ryanapfel

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You keep saying its the battery/cables but iv replaced all of them. Brand new optima yellewtop. ALL brand newwires. I didnt spare any exspense. Iv checked, rechecked, and rechecked again for tightness on all connections. Im having the timing checked today. I was thinking maybe if the timing is off a lil it would run a little hot and heatsoak the starter. Ill let you know if that solves anything

 

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