ignition switch wire

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Key Largo EB

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When I purchased my 93 Bronco Eddie Bauer, it had an after market ignition key switch which seemed to be dragging when I tried to start the vehicle. I put some Graphite powder in it but it eventually failed, anyway. While putting in a new Motor-craft ignition cylinder, I noticed that a 1-wire connector that plugs into the underside of the cylinder was damaged. The plastic connector that plugs the wire terminal into the underside of the cylinder was broken. I can no longer plug the connector into the cylinder. My first question is what does the wire connect to and what does it do? I've not noticed anything malfunctioning since I was not able to reconnect it. My second question is where might I find a replacement part for it? I've been to the nearest Ford Dealer to try to find it. No lock on finding it. the part has one wire attached to it and the connector is semi-circular and it plugs into the underside if the lock cylinder.

any help on this will be greatly appreciated.

 
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miesk5

96 Bronco 5.0
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yo

That is the ignition key warning switch terminal and wire

Key-in-Ignition Warning Overview in a 96 from Workshop Manual; = to your year; "...The warning chime/buzzer sounds when the driver's door is open with the key in the ignition switch lock cylinder (11582), and continues to sound until the key is removed or the door is closed. When the key is in the ignition switch lock cylinder, the key-in-ignition switch is closed and ground is supplied to the warning chime/buzzer module through Circuit 158 (BK/PK). When the driver's door is open, the driver's door lamp switch (13713) is closed

& by Ford for 96; = to your year;

Test the steering column ignition system mechanical operation by rotating the ignition switch lock cylinder (11582) through all positions of the ignition switch. The movement should feel smooth with no sticking or binding. The ignition system should return from the START position back to the ON position without assistance (spring return). If sticking or binding is encountered, check for the following:

burrs on the ignition switch lock cylinder

binding ignition switch lock cylinder

shroud rubbing against ignition switch lock cylinder

burrs or foreign material around the rack-and-pinion actuator in the housing of the ignition switch lock cylinder

insufficient **** on actuator

binding ignition switch

Removal (With Key)

1. Disconnect negative battery cable. Ensure gear selector is in Park . On Pickup, and Villager, remove steering wheel and steering column shrouds. Disconnect key warning switch electrical connector. On Aerostar and Van, locate access hole in steering column shroud (below lock cylinder).

2. On all models, using key, turn lock cylinder to RUN position. Using a 1/8" (3.17 mm) diameter pin or punch, depress retaining pin located in outer edge of lock cylinder housing, and pull out lock cylinder. See Fig. 1

Installation --

1. Turn lock cylinder to RUN position. Depress retaining pin. Insert lock cylinder into housing. Ensure tab on end of lock cylinder aligns with slot in ignition drive gear and lock cylinder is fully engaged in housing.

2. Using key, turn lock cylinder to OFF position. To complete installation, reverse removal procedure. Check lock cylinder and ignition switch functions. Ensure column locks when switch is in LOCK position.

Find another Ford dealer; call Parts Manager and tell them your dealer could not help; some are iffy; my former (now closed, sadly) local dealer parts folks were A#1; they would even print out the parts diagrams for me,

BWD has them too;

http://www.aloa.bz/resourcelib/pdf/BWD-04.pdf

right up top on first page;

avail @ NAPA, etc. or by on-line @ http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?a=Search%2Bfor%2BSTANDARD%2BMOTOR%2BPRODUCTS%2BUS175L

 
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OP
OP
K

Key Largo EB

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Thanks for the quick response! Now I understand why I didn't notice anything failing after I wasn't able to re-connect the wire. I don't believe the chime was working at all when I purchased the Bronco, thus I didn't know it wasn't properly wired. Now that I know what it's for, I'm not sure I really want to fix it. I'll give that some more thought. While we're on the subject, should I lubricate the cylinder with graphite or a petroleum based lubricant?

As far as the dealer, I'm really limited on the option of finding another one, since I live in the Florida Keys. None here, I have to drive 30 miles into Miami to find the closest. I'll live with it for now.

Thanks again for your help.

 

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