water pump pully

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riggermortis

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has anyone changed thier water pump pully to increase speed and flow for mild temp problems. my bronc dont overheat in normal everyday driving but it tends to warm up when idleing on the trails. the radiator is free and clear, the stat is working, timing is good. i was just curious about changing the water pump pully and wanted some feedback. thanks

 

Rons beast

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It's normal for the temps to be higher when idling. Changing the pully is not the answer. You need to get air through the rad. Check that the fan clutch is good. You may want to consider an electric fan, that has an overide switch, so you can turn it on in those situations.

Check for a post from Seabronc. He put an electric fan in his ride. he can tell of all the parts you need. Here's a link with pics. (Thanks to Seabronc) http://www.supermotors.net/vehicles/registry/212/30394

Good Luck

 
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Bully Bob

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Hi Rigger..,

It's a double sheeve req. changing all belts.., and, there's not much room between it & the crank pulley anyway.

Not real sure how accurate these older gages are in the 1st. place.

(Could be checked with a lazer temp reader)

A common prob. is most folks run Waaaay to much anti freeze.

(Water is the best coolant.)

Sounds like you're up to spec i.e. rad., shroud (important) ., hoses., clean block, stat, etc.

If there's still a prob. I'd look at the cheaper fix @ $80+ for the higher volume waterpump.

(Both "left coast" suppliers stock them..... JBG may as well)

 
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Rons beast

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I didn't even know there was a high volume water pump!

But my thinking is still the problem is not getting the coolent through the rad, but getting the rad to disperse the heat. If the problem is happening when the engine is idling, and on the trails, then there is very little air flowing through the rad.

Think of race cars. Staying in the draft= higher eng temps. The problem could get worse if the volume of coolent through the rad is increased. This decreases the "temp soak" time for the liquid to disperse it's heat to the rads fins, and subsequently to the air.

The answer is then to decrease the temp. of the rad fins by increasing the air flow across them, allowing the rad to disperse more heat.

Let us know how things turn out.

Good Luck

 

Bully Bob

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Yep...! All the things I mentioned above are important & work in unison toward a common goal.

All things being equal, the weakest link in these systems is the stock waterpump.

They tend to cavitate & by-pass.

2nd weak link is "no shroud"

3rd is coolant overload.

The hi vol. pump is designed to move more water at low RPM's & backs off at speed.

BUT....! Don't hold my feet to the fire concerning this pump. I don't have/need one. My rig runs on normal pretty much yr. 'round.

Note: Elect. fans & alum. radiators are often needed when 351's are put in these rigs. >:D< <'>

Check me on this but I don't think race cars even run a fan... (8-9 thou. RPM)

A fan would restrict air at 190 MPH...? I think they run hi vol. elect. waterpumps.

 
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Rons beast

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Correcto on the racecar Bully. My point being, the water flow wasn't the issue, it was the airflow through the rad. (or lack there of when in the draft.)

And I learned something...didn't know there was a high flow pump.

thanks

 
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riggermortis

riggermortis

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i do have a shroud, and the coolant is up to spec. i will look into the high volume pump. thanks for the input!

 

bigbluebronc

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i do have a shroud, and the coolant is up to spec. i will look into the high volume pump. thanks for the input!
just change your fan clutch 40 bucks or less done make sure your fan shrould is good and temps will decrease or lock it up for mass air flow I always ran a fulltime fan..

BBB

 
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riggermortis

riggermortis

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it has a full time factory fan. i went ahead and ordered up a high volume pump and 180 stat, hopefully this cures my problem. i'll let you guys know how it works, i'm going to moab in a couple weeks so that should be a good test! thanks for the input to all!

 
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riggermortis

riggermortis

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well i installed the high volume pump and the 180 degree high flow stat and had the radiator flushed again just for good measure, and the results are in..... it runs great up and down the road all day long never gets above 180. but basiclly the same as before, if i stop and let it idle while my wife runs into the store for 10 minutes it gradually warms up. just in 10 minutes it was already holding 200 degrees and its only 85 degrees outside. mechaniclly the engine is sound, i dont know how many miles are on it exactly since it was rebuilt, but its somewhere around 30K to 40K, and probably 10 years old. it has a factory 3 row V8 radiator, a soild factory 7 blade fan, a factory shroud, im running the timming at 12 BTC on a efi swap, the engine is bored .30 over but that shouldnt make it run hot. i donk know but in my experience i should be able to let it idle all day long without any over temp problems, right? i guess the next thing to do, well about the only thing left is to put a 4 row radiator in it but it will probably be a while for that. or maybe somebody out there knows something else or sees something im doing wrong or cold do better.

 

Bully Bob

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Don't recall your answer for where you're gett'n the temp. #'s The stock gages may not be that accurate.

Never mentioned how much anti-freeze you put in.

Curious why you let it idle that long.., do you have A/C.?

OR just testing.? Is water moving from rad. to recovery bottle during the higher temps..?

My rigs temps will climb a bit 4x4'n up hills & slow speeds, like Ron said.

BUT, normal driving, my gage reads/stays/normal @ 120 deg. with a 180 deg. stat. (again, not accurate)

(one day I may clean or repl. the send. unit :-")

200 deg. isn't that hi as long as it doesn't keep climbing--AND-- backs down when under way again.

Again, the lazer temp. readers are about $30 at Harbor Frt.

 
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riggermortis

riggermortis

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my stock gage is suprising accurate, i checked it with my buddies lazer temp gun. i am running enough coolant so that boil over is at 225 or so and freeze is about -15, i live in northern utah and it can get down pretty close to that at least once or twice a year if not colder sometimes, and at the same time it gets up over 100 in the summer too. no i dont have a/c just testing, because i figure if i am on a trail or nasty dirt road i could be in low range first gear just idleing for sometimes very extended periods, and idleing along like that isnt pushing any more air through than if i were just parked, its just what the fan can pull. i do not have a bottle but have never had a problem loseing coolant, although it is something i should probably add into the system eventually. today after i gout home i pulled the radiator cap and let it run for quite a while watching the coolant flow out of the top three tubes and it is squirting out of them almost all the way across the tank and almost splashing out of the filler neck at about 1500 to 2000 rpm. i would think it is flowing plenty good. just for curiosity sake i do have a 12in spawl elect fan that i put down in front of the radiator, when it started climbing over about 195(or getting close to 200) i plugged the electric, and it stopped in its tracks and actually cooled back down to 180 or so. so maybe just adding the electric to help out the manual in those long idle situations is the key to my picky satisfaction.

 

Bully Bob

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Hmmm.., well., it's "by me" ... of the 4 stock V/8 EB's I've had, (all 302's) none had, what I'd call, cooling systems in good/great shape. None of them ran warm/hot even here in the So. Nv. Desert.

However, they all ran @ 7-8 deg. adv., as I recall.

A thought would be, there's really no way to tell the rad. condition unless it's pulled & rodded out.

"..while watching the coolant flow out of the top three tubes and it is squirting out of them almost all the way across the tank and almost splashing out of the filler neck..?

Not sure 'bout this..... :unsure:

I've seen 351's with heat issues on here...but nobody is chime'n in with stock 302 heat issues. Don't know what to say at this point.. :huh:

 
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riggermortis

riggermortis

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yes i know that the second fan would just be a bandage. i think what it comes down too is just me being over worried about nothing really, because all normal driving conditions, around town up and down the highway ect... it runs and operates fine. so i dont know if i really actually have a real problem or not, or if i'm just being picky about something that was designed and built almost 45years ago and expecting it to perform like a new vehicle?

 

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