cold air intake for 351

Is there a cold air intake made for a 1990 broncos 351? And if not will it hurt anything if I make my own?

yo,

Make your own; similar to the 92-96 intake

or,

Fender Intake pics & info in a 90 5.8

Source: by 90Beater (Topher, Chris) at http://bronco.tophersworld.com/writeup_cooling.htm

Most think the K&N type is cold air, but it still gets the air from inside the engine bay.

Someday, I will completely finish getting the insulation to insulsate my 96's air tubes to TB from filter box and intake tube to top of grille.

http://coldairintakewarehouse.com/product.php?productid=1495

http://www.carid.com/1990-ford-bronco-air-intakes/

yo Bronco76,

That is the K&N types; I believe that 90bronco86 wants the later model year intakes that gather air atop rad supportn & not from inside engine bay

I'll say it again. You already have a cold air intake. It can't get any colder than the air outside of the engine compartment, which is where the stock intake gets it's air from. If you put a KN on that lays inside of the engine compartment, you have a hot air intake. Also a stock intake can **** all the air it is possible for a stock engine to gulp down. Without modifying the engine for more displacement adding a KN filter is a waste of money. Yes, it sounds cool because it is noisier than a stock filter, but that is all you get, some people think they get better response, but that is all in their head. After all you have to justify why you spent so much money for nothing. It's like sticking playing cards in the spokes of a bicycle, sounds neat ^_^ /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

My suggestion is find something else to spend your money on, Broncos have plenty of areas it can be applied to

Good luck,

>-

Im just trying to.get the best performance out of my truck that I can, and ive always.been told cold air intakes give more power andgas milleage. But I'm.really just starting as a diy mechanic. So Im sorry if I ask a lot of dumb questions.

thank you all for the help I really.appreciate it

no such thing as dumb questions, if you don't know then ask that's what we're here for.

correction a dumb question would be "where do I put the gas?"

But like seabronc says (just think about it.) the coldest air is whats outside the engine compartment, anything that draws air from inside the engine compartment will not be getting that nice cold air. the only place where a CAI does any good is with how unrestricted the air flow is, with that monster filter and large air tube. so the best way to improve your cold air flow is to un-restrict your system with a new air filter, I like k&N because they are washable and reusable saving you having to buy paper filters, and they come in all shapes and sizes.

Ok that makes sense I appreciate the help

The only good thing about a K&N air filter is that you never have to buy another air filter 1000000 mile warranty....its worth it to buy one for that reason alone. figure $10-15 every 6k miles

yo,

For some reason I thought that you were missing the intake tube and filter box

Here is a typical Insulation Installation

in a 95 5.8; Reflectix® - insulation, avail @ Lowes. etc.; Double Reflective Insulation ST16025 - 16" x 25 feet by exclamation_mark at http://www.supermotors.net/registry/21848/79085

90bronco86 said:

Im just trying to.get the best performance out of my truck that I can, and ive always.been told cold air intakes give more power andgas milleage. But I'm.really just starting as a diy mechanic. So Im sorry if I ask a lot of dumb questions.

thank you all for the help I really.appreciate it

Click to expand...

I never said that you asked a dumb question. I was telling you the truth about a KN filter and my opinion about dumping a lot of money into something that really won't buy you a thing. KN spends a lot of money hyping their product. The thing is that there is no need for one if you don't increase the displacement of the engine.

If someone can show me a dynomometer test that shows any improvement in a stock engine with a KN verses a stock engine with a stock filter, I will eat my words. I agree that they may aid a modified engine. (test data supplied by an independent testing group that is)

>-

Seabronc said:

I never said that you asked a dumb question. I was telling you the truth about a KN filter and my opinion about dumping a lot of money into something that really won't buy you a thing. KN spends a lot of money hyping their product. The thing is that there is no need for one if you don't increase the displacement of the engine.

If someone can show me a dynomometer test that shows any improvement in a stock engine with a KN verses a stock engine with a stock filter, I will eat my words. I agree that they may aid a modified engine. (test data supplied by an independent testing group that is)

>-

Click to expand...

I didn't mean it like you were implying that, I was just saying I felt they were kind of easy and well dumb lol, but I really appreciate all of the help you guys give.

You can always find someone selling a K&N Generation 2 system. It doesn't use a large cone sitting out in the open under the hood sucking up hot air. It has panels that block the warm and direct the cool instead. I did a variation of stock and aftermarket and it works very well. I replaced the factory rubber air inlet hose with the larger plastic K&N one for the Gen2 kit. I then attached it to the mass air flow sensor in my case, and then the MAF to the factory air box. I replaced the stock paper air filter with the K&N rectangular reusable one. I then removed the lower air inlet tube from the radiator, cut and inserted just the top air inlet tube that sits on the top of the radiator support into the side of the stock air box. So now there is just one air inlet. I am still going to wrap the whole setup with the insulating tape like Al (Miesk5) posted above in #10 to seal the tubes and box itself. The K&N intake is completely sealed from the throttle body across the MAF and other than the air box bottom the box is too. K&N uses silicone hoses at both ends with clamps so it is solid. I have pictures on my supermotors site. > -Kevin- http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/684781/fullsize/stock-airbox--kn-tube-combined-001.jpg

The warm air input to a intake is there for a specific function and is controlled. You may be able to get away with that in Sunny California, but you need that input in areas that experience cold weather. It is controlled by the temperature of the air and is needed in cold areas for proper "cold start and run". Ford doesn't put stuff like that on the engine for grabs, they are into spending a little as possible to build a vehicle. If the temperature of the air entering the engine is proper, that input is closed off.

Good luck,

>-

Seabronc said:

The warm air input to a intake is there for a specific function and is controlled. You may be able to get away with that in Sunny California, but you need that input in areas that experience cold weather. It is controlled by the temperature of the air and is needed in cold areas for proper "cold start and run". Ford doesn't put stuff like that on the engine for grabs, they are into spending a little as possible to build a vehicle. If the temperature of the air entering the engine is proper, that input is closed off.

Good luck,

>-

Click to expand...

Sunny California totally fer sure dude but also because mine is different on my '96 Fred. The top is still mounted to the upper radiator support but the bottom was mounted (stock) to the side of the support next to the radiator. They both pulled in fresh air but the bottom one sat really low so I removed it. I have mass air with a air temp sensor in the side of the air-box and the small coolant hose off the radiator fill neck that goes to the throttle body to help with cold weather starting and so the throttle plates don't freeze open but I've also heard it's because coolant is cooler than the fuel vapor that is going in the canister purge port on the opposite side of the throttle body (IAC side) from the canister purge solenoid. It gets plenty of air anyways the way it is and with the larger K&N inlet it pulls it in fast, probably 5-6 inch plastic tube with dual ends for the throttle body. The mass air was adjusting for the increase so I put an oil soaked piece of red pre-filter, that goes around the K&N cones, in the air inlet on top of the radiator support to slow it down a tad and the idle smoothed right out and it runs strong. I like to do improvements even if it only slightly increases H.P./Torque or M.P.G. Because if you add up all the improvements they help each other out and the overall performance is worth it. My '96 is still the original motor and trans and I bet it's running better than when it left the factory 16 years ago but I'm always on top of things before they happen like hoses, vac lines, tune-up parts. It's sort of like therapy but cheaper than the couch! > -Kevin-