yo, I messed-up and over-wrote this;
(am entering a new reply bec. I see you are or wee here and you may not see an edit;
Cleaning & Inspecting; "...1. With the valves installed to protect the valve seats, remove deposits from the combustion chambers and valve heads with a scraper and a wire brush. Be careful not to damage the cylinder head gasket surface. After the valves are removed, clean the valve guide bores with a valve guide cleaning tool. Using cleaning solvent to remove dirt, grease and other deposits, clean all bolts holes; be sure the oil passage is clean (V8 engines).
2.miesk5 Note, review the Ford TSB I showed in prev reply about abrasives
Remove all deposits from the valves with a fine wire brush or buffing wheel. 3.Inspect the cylinder heads for cracks or excessively burned areas in the exhaust outlet ports. 4.Check the cylinder head for cracks and inspect the gasket surface for burrs and nicks. Replace the head if it is cracked. 5.On cylinder heads that incorporate valve seat inserts, check the inserts for excessive wear, cracks, or looseness. The exhaust valve stems, on some engines, are equipped with small metal caps. Take care not to lose the caps. Make sure to reinstall them at assembly time. Replace any caps that are worn. 1.Use an electric drill and rotary wire brush to clean the intake and exhaust valve ports, combustion chamber and valve seats. In some cases, the carbon will need to be chipped away. Use a blunt pointed drift for carbon chipping. Be careful around the valve seat areas.
2.Use a wire valve guide cleaning brush and safe solvent to clean the valve guides. 3.Clean the valves with a revolving wire brush. Heavy carbon deposits may be removed with the blunt drift. When using a wire brush to clean carbon on the valve ports, valves etc., be sure that the deposits are actually removed, rather than burnished. 4.Wash and clean all valve springs, keepers, retaining caps etc., in safe solvent.
5.Clean the head with a brush and some safe solvent and wipe dry.
6.Check the head for cracks. Cracks in the cylinder head usually start around an exhaust valve seat because it is the hottest part of the combustion chamber. If a crack is suspected but cannot be detected visually have the area checked with dye penetrant or other method by the machine shop.
7.After all cylinder head parts are reasonably clean, check the valve stem-to-guide clearance. If a dial indicator is not on hand, a visual inspection can give you a fairly good idea if the guide, valve stem or both are worn. 8.Insert the valve into the guide until slight away from the valve seat. Wiggle the valve sideways. A small amount of wobble is normal, excessive wobble means a worn guide or valve stem. If a dial indicator is on hand, mount the indicator so that the stem of the valve is at 90° to the valve stem, as close to the valve guide as possible. Move the valve off the seat and measure the valve guide-to-stem clearance by rocking the stem back and forth to actuate the dial indicator. Measure the valve stem using a micrometer and compare to specifications to determine whether stem or guide wear is causing excessive clearance.
Checking The Cylinder Head For Warpage (Flatness); When the cylinder head is removed, check the flatness of the cylinder head gasket surfaces.
http://content.chiltonsonline.com/content/images/8492/images/84923075.pdf
1.Place a straightedge across the gasket surface of the cylinder head. Using feeler gauges, determine the clearance at the center of the straightedge.
2.If warpage exceeds 0.003 in. (0.076mm) in a 6 in. (152mm) span, or 0.006 in. (0.152mm) over the total length, the cylinder head must be resurfaced.
3.If necessary to refinish the cylinder head gasket surface, do not plane or grind off more than 0.254mm (0.010 in.) from the original gasket surface. When milling the cylinder heads of V8 engines, the intake manifold mounting position is altered and must be corrected by milling the manifold ****** a proportionate amount. Consult an experienced machinist about this..."
