yo Julien,
The battery is prob good; someday, use a meter to check for voltage as Bob advised.
Exhaust Inlet Pipe
Removal
Remove the muffler (5230),muffler inlet pipe (5A212) and catalytic converter.
Remove exhaust manifold-to-exhaust inlet pipe nuts.
Remove the exhaust inlet pipe (5246) from the vehicle.
Installation
To install, perform the removal procedure in reverse order. Tighten the RH exhaust manifold-to-exhaust inlet pipe nut halfway, tighten the LH nut to 34-46 Nm (25-34 lb-ft) and tighten the RH nut to 34-46 Nm (25-34 lb-ft).
Leaks:
Inspect exhaust inlet pipes (5246) and mufflers (5230) for cracked joints, broken welds and corrosion damage that would result in a leaking exhaust system. Inspect the muffler pipe brackets (5277) and exhaust outlet pipe frame brackets (5260) for cracks and stripped or badly corroded bolt threads. When muffler pipe brackets are loosened and/or removed to replace a heat shield, exhaust inlet pipe or muffler, replace the muffler pipe brackets if there is reasonable doubt that their service life is limited.
The exhaust system, including heat shields, must be free of leaks, binding, grounding and excessive vibrations.
These conditions are usually caused by loose, broken or misaligned muffler pipe brackets, shields, exhaust outlet pipe frame brackets or other exhaust components. If any of these conditions exist, check the exhaust system components and their alignment. Align or replace as necessary.
Installation, 1A Automotive in a 90 5.0 (pics are gone); Bronco Journal June 4th 2003; Work Project: Exhaust Manifold Installation Journal Entry #15. "...Part 1: I will make a long story short: I discovered a "leak" in the LH or driver's side exhaust manifold. I knew about it when I bought the truck - the seller told me a manifold bolt had broken off. I removed the manifold and proceeded to remove the broken stud in the head. It went rather smooth - drilled a pilot hole and used a bolt-out tool to extract the bolt. In most of these Ford trucks, the bolts do not go all the way to the back of the tapped hole and allows you to drill completely through the bolt shaft and therefore "fill" the back side with penetrating oil. Allowing that to soak for a few hours makes the extraction of the stud a lot easier. I ran a tap into the head to make sure all the threads were good - and there was no damage to report. A couple other of the short bolts however were goners - the threads torn off of them ( ??? ). Part 2: I purchased 4 studs from the Ford dealer, and the remainder bolts and nuts from a bolt supply house. The bolts are class 8. The bolt supply house also provided the studs needed for the output to exhaust pipe coupling. Part 3: I decided I was going to "gasket" the manifold for added leak protection. I bought the Fel-Pro set for a 302 and lo-and-behold they did not fit the manifold. Yes, the manifold was from another vehicle !!! It seems (my theory) that the previous owner (dufus-extraordinaire) had his LH manifold CRACK as they were quite common to do in many of the earlier Ford trucks. Instead of obtaining the correct and original manifold he put one on from a later model. It was slightly too long - and hence broke the last stud and stripped a couple short bolts putting it on - hence he sold the truck to the people that finally sold it to me. Mystery solved!Part 4: I ventured to a local SGI salvage yard and bought another manifold that they claimed was the one for a 1990 Bronco/F150 302 engine. When I picked it up, I noticed it looked EXACTLY like the manifold I had just removed. In other words, it did not have the cast ridges in it. It also had the same casting number cast into it. I also noticed the last two holes had been elongated. (???) I bought it for 80 dollars (CDN) and took it home - it was indeed the same type as the one I took off. THEORY: It did come off another Bronco - another idiot doing the same stupid things as the idiot that previously owned MY truck. Is there no end to these morons out there? Some people do NOT deserve to own a vehicle - esp. A wonderful creature like a Ford Bronco. I took the manifold back to SGI and got my cash back and warned them of the mistake. Part 5: Rambling aside: I purchased a NEW non-OEM (strengthened material to prevent the common cracking problem on OEM casts) for 49.99 USD from 1A Automotive in the US. It arrived today (June 4th) and I promptly installed it. Everything went smooth as silk. The manifold bought from Ebay.com (1A Automotive). Notice the ridges cast around the perimeter - this is the indication that this is the proper manifold for the 1990 Ford Bronco 302 engine. Summary: I installed the Fel-Pro gasket ( and this time it fit ! ) and snugged her all down. I put the remainder of the engine back together and connected the battery negative terminal. The moment of truth - will it start? Will it run? Will it leak? What about the oilpan work? Will IT leak? What about the valve cover work? Will THEY leak? I turned the key - and much to my surprise - the quiet engine ran like a top - smooth and quiet. No leaks discovered as of yet - but I will keep a watchful eye on them in the next few weeks to ensure that all is as it should be. Yes, this truck is ready to receive plates and insurance! WooHoo!!! And a shot of the installed manifold. Some brackets not shown in picture, as they were not installed at this point..."
Source: by RFR (Mark B) at
http://web.archive.org/web/20030709210743/rfr.htmlplanet.com/bronco/journal/journal_page15.html
===
Transfer Case; Borg Warner 1356 Electric Shift On The Fly (ESOF):
Take time to read through this by Ford
Four Wheel Drive (4X4) General Information, Operation & Troubleshooting TSB 92-1-8 for Bronco, F Series & Ranger; Includes Electric Shift On The Fly (ESOF) Troubleshooting & Hub Operation, etc.
see page 10, Left Column, "No Range Shift"
If the vehicle is brought to the shop in 4L with the report that it won't shift back to 4H, your first check is to follow the proper sequence of being stopped and having the vehicle in neutral (or clutch in) when pushing the switch. If this doesn't do the trick, check the 4L switch and the motor position sensor.
========
Owners Guide (Manual) for 96 Bronco
Source: by hillerford.com
http://www.hillerford.com/resource_library/owner_manuals_pdf/1996_owner_manuals_ford/96bronco.pdf
Four Wheel Drive System Excerpt from Bronco/F Series Owner's Guide in a 96 - same as your year
an excerpt;
"...
4x4 SYSTEMS-TOUCH DRIVE
The Touch Drive 4x4 system functions in three modes. In Two Wheel Drive mode, power is delivered only to the rear axle at normal road speed. The 4H position provides four-wheel drive with power delivered to the front and rear axles for increased traction. The 4L position provides four-wheel drive with power delivered to the front and rear axles when the above average power is required at reduced speeds. Four wheel drive operation (4x4 or 4x4 LOW RANGE) on dry pavement is not recommended.
Operating the vehicle in four-wheel drive on dry pavement will increase noise, vibration, tire wear, decrease fuel economy, and make four-wheel drive disengagement difficult for the transfer case.
Touch Drive system indicator lights
A 4x4 indicator light and a LOW RANGE indicator light are located at the lower right of the instrument cluster. In addition, two small amber lights are located near the Touch Drive system buttons. The amber light to the left of the 4x4 button will light up at the same time as the 4x4 instrument panel light. The amber light to the left of the LOW RANGE light will light up at the same time as the instrument panel LOW RANGE light.
❑Two Wheel Drive mode — Neither the 4x4 nor the LOW RANGE lights are lit.
❑4x4 mode — Only the 4x4 light is lit.
❑4x4 LOW RANGE mode — Both the 4x4 and LOW RANGE lights are lit.
To shift from Two-Wheel Drive to 4x4:
To shift into 4x4, push the 4x4 button located on the instrument panel. This shift can be done at a stop or at speeds up to 55 miles per hour (88 km/h). When the vehicle is driven, the automatic locking hubs will engage. If the
vehicle is stopped while in 4x4 and the vehicle direction is reversed from the previous direction, the automatic locking hubs will momentarily disengage and reengage. The automatic locking hubs may click as they automatically engage in the new direction.
Touch drive electric shift switch
— At extremely low temperatures, it may be necessary to slow down or even stop to shift from two wheel drive to 4x4.
— The initial shift from two-wheel drive to 4x4 while the vehicle is moving can cause some momentary clunk and ratcheting sounds. This is the front drivetrain coming up to speed and the automatic locking hubs engaging and is not a cause for concern.
— Because of possible damage to powertrain components, never shift from Two-Wheel Drive to 4x4 with the rear wheels slipping.
To shift from 4x4 to Two-Wheel Drive:
Push the 4x4 button; the 4x4 lamp on the instrument cluster will go out indicating the vehicle is in Two-Wheel Drive. This can be done at any speed. To disengage the automatic locking hubs, operate the vehicle in Two-Wheel
Drive in the opposite direction for approximately 10 feet (3 meters) in a straight line
For example:
If you were driving the vehicle forward in 4x4, the automatic locking hubs will
disengage the next time the vehicle is driven in reverse in Two-Wheel Drive for approximately 10 feet (3 meters) in a straight line.
If you were driving the vehicle in reverse in 4x4, the automatic locking hubs will disengage the next time the vehicle is driven forward in Two-Wheel Drive for approximately 10 feet (3 meters) in a straight line.
Operating in two-wheel drive mode with the hubs locked increases fuel consumption, noise, vibration, and wear. For prolonged two-wheel
drive operation on dry pavement, disengagement of the automatic locking hubs, which is not required for two-wheel drive operation, stops all movement of front-wheel drive components while operating in two-wheel drive.
To shift from 4x4 to 4x4 LOW RANGE:
Stop the vehicle and place the automatic transmission in NEUTRAL or depress the clutch on vehicles with a manual transmission. Push the LOW RANGE button on the instrument panel to shift the transfer case from 4x4 to 4x4
LOW RANGE. Both the 4x4 and LOW RANGE lights are now lit.
NOTE: The vehicle must already be in 4x4 before pushing the Low Range Button.
[To shift from 4x4 LOW RANGE to 4x4:[/b
Stop the vehicle and place the automatic transmission into NEUTRAL or depress the clutch on vehicles with a manual transmission. Push the LOW RANGE button on the instrument panel to shift the transfer case from 4x4 LOW RANGE to 4x4..."
I'll do my best for it.
