Distributor/Plug Wires

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coolio2281

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i got my truck put back together from replacing water pump and upper/lower intake manifold gaskets. because iam not the one who took them off and didnt mark them, i cannot get the plug wires back on in their correct spot i have an afermarket MSD cap so it does not specify where #1 is at, (Didnt know if factory cap did or not). so if someone could take a pic of their distributor and mark just one plug so it can give me a starting point. thanks guys, i did not remove the distributor so the timing was not adjusted or messed with what so ever.

 

Krafty

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this is the firing order for 351M, 400, 5.8 (351W) and 1995 5.0 - 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8, and i confirmed the image with my Haynes manual, for 94 and earlier 5.0 it goes 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8

the ONLY two firing orders for these engines, if the first one is not working then you have a timing issue or you don't have a 5.8.

 
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coolio2281

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i ended up getting it to hit on a few cylinders but not enough to turn her over, iam completely stumped. if you have a 5.8 can you take a pic for me so i can get this thing correct. iam starting to think i have too much fuel and shit in the chambers to keep it from firing now, but idk

what do you think? the distributor wasnt turned nor removed at all, injectors/plugs were replaced / fixed, thats it, i dont see how it could be out of time?

 

Bully Bob

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Put the timing mark on "0" (TDC).., insure that it's on a compression stroke.

With the dizzy cap off., where the rotor is now pointing is #1

Start there with your #1 plug wire & work your way around.

This is all assuming you didn't move the dizzy as stated.

 

miesk5

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yo,

Here is a Firing Order to Confirm Krafty's Link;

00000071.gif


all 5.8Ls = 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8.

On these vehicles the #1 and #3, or #5 and #6 spark plug wires must be separated to eliminate the possibility of an induction crossfire. To eliminate the possibility of the coil wire becoming disconnected, route the coil wire under the spark plug wires at the distributor cap.

Check Spark Plug Wire Routing by using decal on radiator or going thu this

Spark Plug Wire Routing & Firing Order TSB 94-04-10 for 87-93 5.0 & 94-96 5.0 & all 5.8 - engine miss, spark knock, buck/***** surge and other driveability concerns

Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at http://www.supermotors.net/clubs/superford/vehicles/registry/media/470416

 
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coolio2281

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did not replace injectors. put new orings on, bout it. i kept them all in order and as far as the injector harness is concerned, , as you probably allready know their run through a taped up harness so i would be stretching it big time if it were on incorrectly, so iam certain that is not it. iam at this point certain i have the wires mixxed, i have the wires set to ^^^ that above^^^ problem is, i have an aftermarket msd cap, and i cannot figure out which is which on the cap

 

Krafty

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is it just the cap or the whole distrubutor thats aftermarket?, if its just the cap it will be exactly the same setup as shown on the image

if its an aftermarket unit it will have the same firing order but different electronics

 
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Rons beast

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MSD makes some distributor caps that are "corrected", that is the wires are installed with all going to the left side or right side of the engine without crossing at all.

If your cap is "Corrected" # 1 would be at the 7 O'clock position. Going counter-clockwise the next would be 5, then 6, 7, 8, 4, 3, 2. This sounds odd but the correct firing order would be "corrected" in the cap.

Hope this helps.

 
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Krafty

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imho, sounds like a complicated waste of money, buy an OEM cap and run the firing order like it says in the book then you'll know its right.

 

Bully Bob

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"...so if someone could take a pic of their distributor.."

Coolio., do this... YOU take/post pics. of what YOU have., cap on & cap off. >:D< <'>

This would be a better start.

And again, timing at TDC on compression stroke.

 

miesk5

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yo,

MSD shows Distributor #8451 for 93 5.8 Bronco

Their installation instr. doesn't help you;

RON mentioned that "MSD makes some distributor caps that are "corrected"..." but this one is a direct drop-in w/plug wires installed as in original cap.

Here are the R&R;

"1. Remove the existing distributor cap without disconnecting any spark plug wires.

2. With the cap off, turn the engine over until the rotor is aimed at a fixed point on the engine or firewall. Note this position by making a mark (Figure 1).

3. Place the distributor cap back on and note which plug wire the rotor is pointing at. Mark the spark plug wires and remove the cap.4. Disconnect the connector from the distributor’s ignition module.

5. Loosen the distributor hold-down clamp and slide it out of the way.

6. Lift the distributor out of the engine. Note that the rotor rotates as you lift it out. This is due to the helical cut gear and should be taken into consideration when installing the new distributor.

1. Install the new o-ring.

2. Remove the cap from the MSD distributor.

3. Apply a liberal amount of the supplied break-in lubricant to the distributor gear.

4. Install the distributor making sure that the rotor comes to rest at the fixed mark. If the distributor

will not fully seat you may need to rotate the oil pump shaft.

5. With the rotor in the correct position and the distributor fully seated, install the distributor clamp

and tighten it.

6. Connect the wiring harness to the ignition module.

7. Install the distributor cap and install the spark plug wires one at a time to ensure correct location.

The firing order of the Ford Mustang 5.0L and the 351W is: 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8.Note: This firing order only applies to high output 5.0L engines with a hydraulic roller

camshaft.

8. You will need to check the ignition timing to get it to exact specifications. To check the timing you

need to disconnect the Spout connector. Follow the recommended procedure which should be

outlined on the Emission Specification Decal in the engine compartment..."

Sandy has a 94 5.0 that has same firing order as your 5.8; so here are some pics of the MSD;

http://www.supermotors.net/registry/11474/32259

TWO PICs for Example;

driversbad.jpg

newcap.jpg

Here is a pic in a 95 5.8 that may help; Miesk5 Note, Right Click LINK & Open in New Window

Source: by Edgethis (Brett) at flickr.com


6744284577_65e4b4b85e_b.jpg

 

Rons beast

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Yes Krafty, the "corrected" caps are a hassel. They are for the vehicles that need to look "pretty" for show.....or those that are **** about their engines.

Just thought that Coolio may have one.

BTW Nice repair, can't believe it was a can lid.

 
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coolio2281

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iam going to first off state that iam a recent graduate of diesel tech school so me working on gasoline engines is very rare. and my first time tearing down my truck, now give me a 3406E or a ISX and i can do some work. but i opollogize its taking me a little time to get around to things, but i appreciate everyones help. tonight after work i will try to bar the engine over to TDC if anyone has done it what do i need and is there a mark thats visable without removing everything i just replaced. and thanks again for all the help. i will post pics later this evening or later in week, i have alot at work to complete.

 

Bully Bob

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COOLIO.,

Old school engine (timing marks on crank pully/balancer) timing/setup to #1 spark plug top dead ctr. on compression stroke is "Engine tune-up 101"

Any China auto parts book will walk one thru it. Once you know this, it's a 5 min. job.

HOWEVER, I'm not up to speed on the newer Bronco electronics. There may be some other (newer) tricks to setting up a dizzy & wires. (sensors, etc.)

Therefore, I'm backing out & the other good folks here can put you on the right track.

Good luck..,

Bob

 
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Krafty

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the only difference I know if between the old duraspark and the modern efi's are the advance, but bully bob is right, line up the marks on the crank pully to locate tdc for #1 and then remove your cap, the one that the rotor is infront of is your #1 and your starting point for the firing order.

in the possibility that you cannont read your timing marks because of rust or whatever, the hot rod trick is you pull your #1 plug, feed a short length of nyon rope into the champer and spin your motor by ratchet until you feel the piston touch the rope, if you put too much in then your tdc will be premature, this trick also work wonders for doing valve seals with the head still on the motor.

and DONT LOSE THE ROPE. you don't need much rope but obviously you need to be able to pull it out when your done.

 
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coolio2281

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i got it figured out finally. i cannot seem to get my pics uploaded i will try tomarrow, but i had the order above rigged up and she fired, ran like complete **** for a few seconds till all the unburnt fuel sputtered away, then she idled and sounded great. but for some reason, as if it suddenly lost fuel, she died, and not i cannot get it to start again. one thing after another at this point.

 

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