Body Lift

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

WileE7

Member
Joined
Apr 12, 2006
Messages
105
Reaction score
1
I want to remove the 3" body lift on my bronco. How easy/hard will it be?

 

miesk5

96 Bronco 5.0
Staff member
Moderator
Joined
Oct 18, 2005
Messages
9,071
Reaction score
1,018
Location
Floating in the Pacific
yo,

Our Sponsor here, Jeff's Bronco Graveyard has:

Body Mount Bushings @ http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/c-605-body-hardware-bronco.html

looks like some are polyurethane

Body Mount Hardware Kit @ http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-33100-body-mount-hardware-kit-bronco-80-96.html

Frame Savers in case the body mount holes are badly rusted-out.

http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/c-1129-bronco.html

And also the 3" body lift kits; @ http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-33330-body-lift-3-bronco-1987-91.html - so you can see waht to remove & replace

Jeff's Bronco Graveyard offers members of this forum a 2% discount for orders placed on-line. Enter discount code BZMEMBER and your user id.

Ford also has "Body Mount Insulator"(s) & Body Mount Retainers

@ http://www.fordparts.com/Commerce/CatalogResults.aspx?y=1990&m=Ford&mo=Bronco#Search'>http://www.fordparts.com/Commerce/CatalogResults.aspx?y=1990&m=Ford&mo=Bronco#Search

http://www.fordparts.com/Commerce/CatalogResults.aspx?y=1990&m=Ford&mo=Bronco#Search

Check for any Rear Lift Blocks that WILL NEED TO BE REMOVED; a typical block @ http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-23363-rear-lift-blocks-3-pair.html

===============

I guess it will be the same as installing one;

reverse R&R by using;

Replacement Info & Sources; "...replaced mine as part of my restoration project over the last year+ . All I've got to say is that it was a ROYAL PITA. To replace the front ones you need to have them all loose so you can raise the body far enough to put the new mounts and associated hardware in. 5 of the 8 were so rusted inside the tube that I couldn't simply soak them as previously mentioned. I ended up using a carbide saw blade, (one with diamond grit along the edge), for a sawzall to cut the tubes and that took forever because you are cutting bolts that are a number 8 hardness. If you are going to replace any, replace them all. Use the polly mounts. Make sure you get the kit for a Bronco and not a F150. The diagram in the LMC Truck shows the wrong poly mount for position 2. That is the poly mount for a F150. In fact the one that goes in that position, including the associated hardware, is the same as position 3. As far as bolts go, the bolt kit from Bronco grave yard is much too long so just go out and get the ones listed in Meisk5's first response. From the LMC Truck catalog you will need the following hardware http://www.lmctruck....ll.aspx?Page=36 6 of #28, 6 of number 31, 2 of number 18, 6 of number 27, ( I didn't use the other numbers as they are the same part number, what I did list skips the hardware they show for position #2 and gets you the correct part). LMC truck has been notified of the diagram error for position 2, which you can see in the second diagram of Miesk5's original post. The Bronco poly kit from Bronco Graveyard http://broncograveya...=body+mount+kit , number 33090 or 33092 has the correct poly bushings including the radiator support bushings. Do not waste your money on their hardware kit as it has bolts that are way too long (part number 33100). Get the hardware from LMC Truck that I previously listed, with the exception of the rear mounts, I went to LOWES and got # 8's from them. I don't know if LMC has the correct length bolts, because by then I had so many useless bolts, I didn't want to risk getting another useless set ..."

Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at http://broncozone.com/topic/20641-body-mounts/

and;

Removal, part of his Installation, Performance Accessories 3 inch in a 94 (pics are gone)

Source: by Bill Von V at mybigbronco.com @ http://web.archive.org/web/20010427225924/mybigbronco.com/94bronco/bodylift.htm

This is slow to load since I retrieved it from the www archives.

You don't have the front "crumple zone" so iggie that if mentioned

Body Mounts Parts Break-Out & Locations (& Bolt Sizes) for 94 (other years are similar) w/Nomenclature; "Check out View Z (lower R). It's not totally accurate because it omits the thick spacer, and there should be another washer between the Nut & the Spacer on top of the core support..."

Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at http://www.superford.org/vehicles/registry/showmedia.php?id=194329

The rear bolts (view V) are 7/16"x14(NC) 6.5" long threaded 2.5" with a 5/8" head with large integral washer.

The 6 identical bolts are 7/16"x14(NC) 3.75" long threaded 2.5" with a 5/8" head with small integral washer.

The front bolts (view Z) are metric (no other details).

Note that the necked portion of the upper sleeve (part of the upper absorber) is designed to lock onto the lower sleeve (flared assembly nut) to hold the rubber in place on the frame on the assembly line. But it funnels dirt & water in around the 2 parts & the bolt threads, usually rust-welding them together. So the longer they're soaked with penetrating oil before disassembly, the more likely they are to come apart.

Once the bolt is backed out a few turns, spray more penetrant down into the upper sleeve to rinse the rust off the threads, and use a hammer & drift on the bolt head to separate the sleeves.

The core support mount (views U & Z) is different, and the bolt threads into it from below. It's virtually impossible to separate them, or even to unscrew the bolt. They usually have to be cut apart and replaced.

These are the basic parts of Ford truck body mounts (cab, NOT bed). Note that the necked portion of the upper sleeve (alone at the bottom of the photo) is designed to lock onto the lower sleeve (on the R end of the bolt) to hold the rubber in place on the frame on the assembly line. But it funnels dirt & water in around the 2 parts & the bolt threads, usually rust-welding them together. So the longer they're soaked with penetrating oil before disassembly, the more likely they are to come apart.

body-mount-parts.jpg

Once the bolt is backed out a few turns, spray more penetrant down into the upper sleeve to rinse the rust off the threads, and use a hammer & drift on the bolt head to separate the sleeves.

The core support mount is different, and the bolt threads into it from below. It's virtually impossible to separate them, or even to unscrew the bolt. They usually have to be cut apart and replaced.

by Steve83

================================

Body Mount Locations, Info & pics in a 90

Source: by ChuckVA (Chuck, Da Bronco) at http://www.supermotors.net/registry/10180/29535

--------------------------------------

Replacement & Radiator Core Support in a 90 (pics are gone)

Source: by slickerthanyou

Well I finally tackled this enormous task. I took me over two weeks only because I didn't have a garage to work in and the weather rained or snowed almost everyday. so now the install...

I started with the front core support this is the reason for this

It was just bouncing around on the frame. I started by removing the front plastic piece connected to the grill. Then i went to the grill, the headlight buckets(one piece) with adjusters attached and the apron piece that is below the grill. I then removed the hood latch assy from top and bottom. Next I removed the front bumper(not necessary) but makes it easier to get to everything in the front. Then removed the overflow/ washer fluid bracket-Next I disconnected the electrical harness that runs along the top. Then drained the rad removed all hoses, grounding straps that weren't rusted. Next I disconnected the A/c system ( mine was empty) but you may have to relieve the pressure in system first. Legally your suppose to go to garage to have then evacuate it but, I don't believe that it does the harm they say so use your own jugement here. Of course this would be done before everything else as it would be hard to drive it to garage after everthing is disconnected! If you have a tranny cooler disconnect it from tranny lines. If not disconnect tranny lines from rad and put plugs in to prevent fluid from spilling.Now mark the tranny linkage before you loosen it then loosen the nut on the slide if you are putting a lift on it you must cut linkage and weld a piece back on and bolt the slide in the same spot as you marked-(whatever size lift ex. 2" lift 2"piece this is where I fuked up) Now I removed the speed nut bolts that hold it on the fenders and plastic inner fender. Next you would remove the two nuts that hold the support to the mount, but mine were completely rusted through. Now I pulled the core, rad, shroud A/C condenser all off as one piece. Then removed them after i the core out. Now you would remove the mounts/bolt assy. I think It was 18MM head. I then procedded to try and remove the other 8 body mounts Passanger side first(no reason) lift rug up in cab look for cover plate over hole under dash below glovebox. these were rubber plugs. The next two were plates with two phillips screws.

This was the only one that unscrewed off. The other 7 I had to cut with sawzall, chisel and big f'in hammer. The next one is located behind the front seat on floor remove rug again and you will see it. I then proceded to the one that was in the back by my rear wheel well. The last one on this side is located under the chrome stepping piece by where the tailgate meets the floor. Remove it and pull rug back can miss it. I did remove my rear bumper to cut these off. The driverside is the same as passenger side just opposite of it. Next I jacked the body up slowly enough to remove mounts and install new poly mounts and lift block. I put the block on top of the polymount as the mounts had the sleeves that fit in the frame holes then set the body on the blocks and did the other side (drivers)the same. After all mounts and liftblocks were on I tightened each bolt snug checked linkages- good thing I did i had to loosen the tranny linkage and let it slide in the factory hole until there was no binding. My emergency brake cable was ok I then loosened the gas filler hose as it had a small steching look to it and move it an inch to perfection. Everything else was good. I then tightened all body mounts to 70 FTlbs and began to replace the rad, condeser that i made into tranny cooler

I put a 2" lift on. In my write up I said to loosen the tranny linkage -I forgot to do this and f'd up something it won't shift now. I have trhe E4OD. I think i jammed the MPLS on the tranny

you can replace the core support with the tranny cooler, ac condensor and radiator still connected

-------------------

It didn't take me more than 5 hours working alone to change the whole truck, and I had to hacksaw 2 mounts and file 2 bolt heads. I wouldn't try doing them one at a time - you might twist the body permanently. Work down one frame rail, tighten them all back down, then move to the other side.

The rearmost bolts are the easiest to get to - just remove the tailgate

threshhold and peel the carpet back. The bolts (13mm heads)

are right there. If the heads are rusted (like mine), you can file

them down to a smaller hex so you can turn them again.

Continue peeling carpet forward and you'll see the access plates for

the next mounts, beside the wheelwells. I think the screws have 8mm

heads and all the rest of the bolts are 15mm.

The next set is just behind the front seats and I got to mine by pulling

the door threshholds, seatbelt reel covers, and kick panels (for the

next bolts). Then peel the carpet around until the access plates are

visible.

The last inside bolts are in the footwells. With the threshholds and

kick panels out, the carpet can be peeled from around the e-brake cable

and high-beam switch. I think these access plates have different screws.

The core support bolts are just outside the radiator opening on the

back side. These will be the worst because of battery acid and road

salt.

The lower section of the mounts consists of a nut welded to a round

plate with a tube sticking up. The tube has a flare near the top end.

The upper section is a plate with a tube going down that has a neck

near the bottom. At the factory, these tubes are pressed together

thru the frame with the rubber captive between the plates. This holds

them on before the body is dropped on and bolted down. It's also the

only reason this is a tricky job. The tubes lock together with corrosion

over the years and when the rubber sags, they funnel grit down onto

the bolts and their threads, making them sometimes impossible to remove

intact.

The tricks:

1. If you can con someone competent into doing it for less than $100,

get him working on it before the drugs wear off.

2. If you must do it yourself, have a good socket set with good ratchets,

extensions, and breaker bars, as well as a ball peen hammer, a blunt

drift (punch), vise grips, pry bars, a jack, 2-4 jack stands, a 6-foot

4x4 post, a hacksaw (Stanley Contractor with bimetalloy blades is the

best), anti-sieze lubricant, and all the Liquid Wrench from your state

and the 3 surrounding.

3. Soak the bolts (especially INSIDE the tubes) with Liquid Wrench

several times over the course of a week before starting.

4. Use the pry bars to lift the body and get the Liquid Wrench spray

tube on top of the top plate to fill the top tube.

5. Back up the nut from below (above on the core support) with vise

grips or wrenches so you don't twist it off the plate.

6. If the bolt won't turn, try vibrating it with the hammer & drift

(only on the head) to loosen the threads and let the Liquid Wrench

get in.

7. Work down one frame rail at a time so the body doesn't shift out

of line.

8. When you finally get a bolt out, rinse it and the hole it came

out of with Liquid Wrench and thread it back in about 5 turns. Put

the drift squarely on top of the head and smack it with the hammer.

After you lose a few fingernails, the tubes will separate and the

bottom section will drop out.

9. BIG TIP ! ! ! Coat the threads with "Anti-Sieze Lubricant" !!!

(I use it on everything.)

10. If the bolt won't turn, or the head strips, or the nut breaks

off, you will have to hacksaw through the tubes. Do it as high as

you can so you can reuse the lower section when you eventually separate

them. If the bolt breaks, you can still separate the tubes with the

drift and get the bolt out later. Don't be afraid to rip the old rubber

out of your way - you won't be reusing it.

11. When you have an entire side free (even if there are mounts that

need to be hacksawed), put the post under the door running front-to-back

along as many body reinforcements as possible. Then use it to lift

the body with the jack - 2 inches should be plenty. Don't go too high

or you'll damage the fuel filler and the fan or shroud. Later models

also have ground straps that may be too short, but they can be pried

off and hammered back on.

12. Remove the old mounts (by hacksawing if necassary) and top sections

and immediately replace them with the new ones. (You should have already

prepared them per mfr. instructions.)

13. Lower the body straight back onto the new mounts and reinstall

the bottom sections and bolts (this is where an assistant is handy).

If you must buy new bolts, get at least grade 5 or class 5.5; grade

8 or class 8.8-10.8 is better.

14. If you have a mechanical clutch linkage (like me), adjust it.

Automatics may have to adjust the shift linkage.

energy-body-mounts.jpg

ENERGY Suspension Installation Instructions in 80-96

Source: by ENERGY Suspension via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net

 
Last edited by a moderator:

Members online

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
22,509
Messages
135,880
Members
25,108
Latest member
Utahstroke
Top