yo,
No problem on the cose stuff;
A Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) indicates that the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) or also called the Bronco's computer or Electronic Engine Control (EEC); has recognized an abnormal condition in the system. DTC's are the results of a system or circuit failure, but do not directly identify the failed component or components.
So for instance on that torque converter guess by that passer-by, the DTC could be:
DTC 628; "...I did things in a stupid-simple way when the 628 came up: I tapped into the TCC line, and attached a voltmeter between that line and chassis ground. While driving, I could watch for it to go between zero volts (meaning the PCM was commanding the converter to lock) and battery voltage (meaning the converter should be unlocked). It sounds counterintuitive at first, but that's a matter of perspective, I suppose. Anyhow, if you see the PCM trying to lock the TCC and nothing happens to the engine speed, or if you can give it a little more throttle and the engine speed rises while it's commanded to lock, then you're assured a problem exists. If there was an electrical problem, then the PCM should also be giving you a code 627 as well. The 628 indicates excessive converter slippage. At a steady cruise, say your 60 mph, if you tap the brake the engine speed should rise slightly, and then come back down as the TCC re-engages. This condition can be intermittent, and it's more of a mechanical problem than an electrical one. The fix for a slipping TCC is to replace the torque converter and stator shaft seal, nothing more. You'd be out a little over a hundred bucks probably, and a few hours' labor, if you get one through a reputable transmission shop. I wouldn't buy anything but an OE-type replacement. You may even be able to get a Motorcraft/Ford replacement through a local dealership, but I've no clue how much their price would be..."
Source: by SigEpBlue (Steve)
=================
So take time to read thru that Broncojoe link (right click on it) and try the Self Test for Codes.
and when you have time, get a test light or cheap digital multimeter from Wal Mart, etc and inspect the **** fuses in the power distribution box under the hood. Something could have shorted causing those fuses to ***** esp. since you had that accident; they feed the in-cab fuses so the in-cab may look good, but they're not getting the 12v.... ...
Ask away, we have time! as long as we wake up each morning...